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A Müller & Sons/ Rundschau Shirt Block


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#1 Sator

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Posted 04 August 2009 - 07:20 PM

Here is a Rundschau shirt block from around the 1950-60s for a classical men's shirt.

Posted Image

Hauptmaße = Main Measurements
Kg = height
Ow = chest
Äl = sleeve length

Hilfsmaße = Supplementary Measurements
Hw = neck measure
Sp = back neck
at = armscye depth over back
Rl = waist length
Lg = total length
Vl = length of foreparts
Ad = armscye diameter

Note the formulae given to derive most of these measures. The neck measure is as measured. The expression "halb. Kg" means "half the height".

Start drafting from point A on diagram 317 by drawing a square. Next draw in Rh, the depth of armscye plus 3-4cm of ease and proceed on to Tl, the waist length and Lg the total length.

Add in from Rh the half chest width plus 9-10cm, where S is located in the middle of Rh-Bb. From point S mark half way to points Av (half chest) and Rb (half back width).

From T to H1 is the front length. Square out horizontally from point H1.

Neck seam, shoulder, armscye: A-W is about 1/10th of the neck measure. A-h = Sp (back neck). H1-H is the back neck minus 0.5 cm. The depth of h1 to H2 is Sp (back neck) + 1 cm. The distances from a-ah and At-Ah are both 1/10 Ow (chest) minus 1 cm.

The yoke: from W go up 4.5 cm and square out horizontally to the armscye. In the foreparts there the yoke is 4 cm wide at the shoulder, and join this to the back part of the yoke as shown. A distance of 2 cm is place between yoke and armscye.

Pleats and placket:
6 cm is allowed for a centre pleat, 2 cm for the overlap at front.

Sleeves & Cuffs (see diag. 318)

Start with the square at K. K-B is half the armscye diameter. To K is the width of armscye and to L is the sleeve length minus 5.5 cm (cuff width). L-L1 is 1/2 cuff width + 4cm. B-C is 1/10th half chest + 2cm upwards. The sleeve cap is drawn in as shown by the dotted line.

Collars

319 neck band
320 detachable collar
321 attached collar
322 collar for a high neck (note distance of A to a)

1/2 Halsweite = 1/2 neck

The system is NETT! No seams are allowed for in the draft. Seams allowances will need to be added later.

If you have found this translation useful and interesting you will find that it will help you make sense of the Rundschau book on shirt cutting:

http://www.muellerso...r-und-sohn,107/

It is available in German only, but this thread will help you navigate through the more modern system.

#2 Sanguis Mortuum

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Posted 11 February 2010 - 07:04 AM

In the sleeve instructions:

K-B is half the armscye diameter.

I think this is supposed to translate as half the circumference rather than diameter. :)

Edited by Sanguis Mortuum, 11 February 2010 - 07:06 AM.


#3 Sator

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Posted 11 February 2010 - 09:16 AM

Yes, thanks for pointing out that mistake. I meant to write circumference as a translation for Umfang.

#4 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 11 February 2010 - 09:32 AM

Now we can tailor a coat, overcoat, sleeping gown, and a shirt for our customer.
www.berlinbespokesuits.com

#5 Sanguis Mortuum

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Posted 15 October 2010 - 07:43 AM

A couple more minor things:

A-W is about 1/10th of the neck measure.

The distances from a-ah and At-Ah are both 1/10 Ow (chest) minus 1 cm.

I think these should read '1/10th of half the neck measure' and '1/10 half Ow, minus 1cm'?

Edited by Sanguis Mortuum, 15 October 2010 - 07:45 AM.


#6 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 07 November 2010 - 08:32 AM

A couple more minor things:

I think these should read '1/10th of half the neck measure' and '1/10 half Ow, minus 1cm'?


You are right! h. stands for half 1/10 h. = 1/20
www.berlinbespokesuits.com

#7 Martin Stall

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Posted 07 November 2010 - 11:41 PM

Not a very good collar at all. In fact... Oh never mind :)
Sure, I believe your work rocks, but... have you considered, how are you going to sell that stuff?

http: under construction...

#8 amateursarto

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Posted 05 November 2013 - 02:12 AM

Not a very good collar at all. In fact... Oh never mind smile.gif

What's wrong with the collar?

 

Pete


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