Jump to content


Photo

Slim fit or just too tight?


  • Please log in to reply
82 replies to this topic

#37 carpu65

carpu65

    Pro

  • Senior Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 537 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 11 April 2013 - 03:50 AM

And that guy is a model.
Think this silly garbage on the average Joe! :Clown:

#38 Schneidergott

Schneidergott

    Master

  • Moderator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,680 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Scotland

Posted 11 April 2013 - 07:54 AM

Honestly I think the blue suit isn't that bad for RTW. I've seen worse coming from (or being worn by) bespoke tailors (the guys on the sides):

Posted Image

"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#39 Martin Stall

Martin Stall

    Wizard

  • Moderator
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 979 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Spain

Posted 11 April 2013 - 08:12 AM

This thread is turning into a right bitchfest ;)
Sure, I believe your work rocks, but... have you considered, how are you going to sell that stuff?

http: under construction...

#40 Der Zuschneider

Der Zuschneider

    Master

  • Senior Professional
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,429 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:TX, Houston
  • Interests:- German Cutting Systems
    - Modern Tailoring by German Semi-Traditional Standards

Posted 11 April 2013 - 08:29 AM

Honestly I think the blue suit isn't that bad for RTW. I've seen worse coming from (or being worn by) bespoke tailors (the guys on the sides):

Posted Image


SG is right, those blue slim fit ones fit good, but the style is so untraditional.
But I understand if someone like those ones, that is the taste, I can nothing do about it.

And here, in the black/white picture is worst.
www.berlinbespokesuits.com

#41 carpu65

carpu65

    Pro

  • Senior Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 537 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 13 April 2013 - 12:08 AM

The blue suit is from the new collection of J Press,"York st".
Not is a bad suit,but the size and the fit is ridicule.
Can be a fashion fad,but is a ridicule fashion fad.
Nothing wrong about close fit (if you have the physique),but this is simply too much tight and too much short:
is ugly and comique.
My fear is that the reaction at this stuff could be the return of baggy and loose fit,with giant lapels and grotesque shoulders.
I love the clean and sharp look,but this skinny fashion crazy could discredit it for decades.

Posted Image

Posted Image

#42 Schneidergott

Schneidergott

    Master

  • Moderator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,680 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Scotland

Posted 13 April 2013 - 01:45 AM

Posted Image

"Things" like this only show how cheap the industry has become. Companies who care about good fit and good quality garments often run into trouble because of the higher costs for qualified staff and high end production.
But there are also the people to blame who buy those cheap garments. It's such a waste of money and resources.

Let's hope the huge, boxy garments of the late 80's and early 90's don't come back. Not to mention the other hideous things like tights and those weird hair styles:

Posted Image

"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#43 greger

greger

    Master

  • Senior Professional
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,122 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Washington, USA

Posted 13 April 2013 - 09:41 AM

High fashions can be fun and some are not and it is surprising who likes what. After all it has a lot to do with what has been culturealy in your life as to what you like and don't. Some people don't understand how intertwined the culture is and which, who and why it got there. Even in elementary school children start talking about what they like about clothes and don't which can be very different between older childern and adults. Even with adults the different age groups vary in clothing. Why fight over what has been happening for centuries. Grabing certain parts of culture of clothing and saying the rest is wrong simply does not work. The collars of today are simply a fashion that we got stuck with for an unuseual long time. In the past there are lots of cool collars from big rolls to high in varisouse ways to long and short and more than my imagination can think of. Lapels are nothing but fashion since they have no purpose except fashion of which even in my short time there has been many and looking at pictures that go back hundreds of years there are many more. Tails of coats, again, a fashion statement. These are not to be dreaded, but enjoyed. I have seen the wide lapels of several kinds and the narrow ones of several kinds and the inbetween ones and what is popular at the time is what is worn, or you will be laughted at. Narrow pant legs around here was certainly of the early 60s and laughed at towards the end of the 60s and so it goes for all of them from narrow to medium to wide. Even the body of the coat is up for grabs, which is why I don't like some of the American fashions of the past. We have seen coats of a certain length for so long that shorter looks wrong, but is it? If they are around for another five or ten years they may start looking normal and your preception of them may change. I think SR has really shot itself in the foot by there make believe everlasting style. This marketing method works for awhile, but they should never really believe beyond marketing. After all, the "everlasting style" has only been around for a short time historically speaking. In another hundred years there won't be enough sheep and goats to keep it up. Sports wear and beach wear and buisness wear etc., etc. each has it's place and needs to change. Even the business shirt of today is totally wrong for 120 years ago, so who is right? Them or us? Anyway, I would love to see some of the wide to narrow lapels that I have seen in the past. Young people today have no idea.....

#44 jeffrey2117

jeffrey2117

    Journeyman

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 370 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:NC
  • Interests:Sewing and tailoring, numismatics, frustrating my assistant by forgetting where I put things when I move them.

Posted 17 April 2013 - 11:38 AM

The blue suit is from the new collection of J Press,"York st".
Not is a bad suit,but the size and the fit is ridicule.
Can be a fashion fad,but is a ridicule fashion fad.
Nothing wrong about close fit (if you have the physique),but this is simply too much tight and too much short:
is ugly and comique.
My fear is that the reaction at this stuff could be the return of baggy and loose fit,with giant lapels and grotesque shoulders.
I love the clean and sharp look,but this skinny fashion crazy could discredit it for decades.

Posted Image

Posted Image



Hello Carpu65,

If you can imagine the gentleman wearing the blue suit at three or four sizes smaller, this is what I see brought to me.

The many RTW suits that are being brought in are mostly straight legs again as industry is attempting to change to the fashion trend.

I am also now getting many questions from gentlemen in age range of 45-55, for three and button suits from mid 60's styles.

No requests yet for watch pockets yet!

I begin to wonder if this trend will alternately develop to men wearing hats again as in the past?

I have not seen this, just speculating.



Kind regards,

Jeffrey2117
"An intelligent man knows he is ignorant, a ignorant man knows he is intelligent".

#45 heavy iron

heavy iron

    Umsie

  • Professional
  • Pip
  • 3 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:usa southeast
  • Interests:tailoring,designing and most of all fly fishing

Posted 29 April 2013 - 05:21 AM

No matter how much fitting and tailoring,skinny suits still look cheap , or am I just old school.

#46 Der Zuschneider

Der Zuschneider

    Master

  • Senior Professional
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,429 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:TX, Houston
  • Interests:- German Cutting Systems
    - Modern Tailoring by German Semi-Traditional Standards

Posted 29 April 2013 - 01:54 PM

Have the trousers really be that short these days?
www.berlinbespokesuits.com

#47 carpu65

carpu65

    Pro

  • Senior Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 537 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 30 April 2013 - 06:24 AM

Not in Italy,and think neither in UK.
Is above all an American thing,I believe.

#48 Der Zuschneider

Der Zuschneider

    Master

  • Senior Professional
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,429 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:TX, Houston
  • Interests:- German Cutting Systems
    - Modern Tailoring by German Semi-Traditional Standards

Posted 30 April 2013 - 08:38 AM

I have not seen it in USA either. Maybe SG knows more about the high water trousers, since he is in the MTM business.
I wouldn't mind those high water trousers like in the 50thies and 60thies.
www.berlinbespokesuits.com

#49 napoli

napoli

    Pro

  • Professional
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 539 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 30 April 2013 - 08:45 PM

Posted Image
:Clown: :Party:
:LMAO: :LMAO: :LMAO:


Totally agree. I like slim, I mean I donīt like bad cutted with remaining fabric elsewhere , but hate that fashion of clown bow tiers as that.

#50 napoli

napoli

    Pro

  • Professional
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 539 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 30 April 2013 - 08:48 PM

Not in Italy,and think neither in UK.
Is above all an American thing,I believe.



Was a hype of short and narrow cuffs on Naples since a coupe of years ago, but only for fashionistas ( Pitty door clowns ), not for serious dressers.

Edited by napoli, 30 April 2013 - 08:48 PM.


#51 Martin Stall

Martin Stall

    Wizard

  • Moderator
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 979 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Spain

Posted 30 April 2013 - 11:35 PM

Posted Image


Hang on a minute... Is what I'm seeing there really an undercut jacket - WITH drape? Someone call the LondonLounge :D
Sure, I believe your work rocks, but... have you considered, how are you going to sell that stuff?

http: under construction...

#52 Martin Stall

Martin Stall

    Wizard

  • Moderator
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 979 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Spain

Posted 30 April 2013 - 11:36 PM

Seriously though: I can't wait for this fad to pass, and get zoot suits back into the public eye.
Sure, I believe your work rocks, but... have you considered, how are you going to sell that stuff?

http: under construction...

#53 carpu65

carpu65

    Pro

  • Senior Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 537 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 01 May 2013 - 12:17 AM

Totally agree. I like slim, I mean I donīt like bad cutted with remaining fabric elsewhere , but hate that fashion of clown bow tiers as that.


Agree.
I like "clean" (not "slim") fit too,and hate baggy-boxy-broad shoulders suit.
But "clean" like the best 50/60s bespoke,not skinny like Pee wee herman.
Moreover i think that this fit is also rather uncomfortable.


Was a hype of short and narrow cuffs on Naples since a coupe of years ago, but only for fashionistas ( Pitty door clowns ), not for serious dressers.


Yes.
I think that width is too much close also in Naples today,but short trousers have not successful in the gulf city.
The derogatory sentence "pantaloni a zompafosso" (jump ditch trousers)for short trousers,is Neapolitan.

#54 Schneidergott

Schneidergott

    Master

  • Moderator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,680 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Scotland

Posted 01 May 2013 - 03:03 AM

I still think that the too short issues stem from selling garments that are actually labelled at least one size smaller to get the slim fit, rather than adjusting an original pattern.

Slim fit does not have to be uncomfortable, just like loose and baggy is not automatically comfortable.
Trouble is that the power of marketing makes people believe it has to look that way.

About my MTM experience: I never let any customer walk away with too short sleeves or trousers and I don't intend to change that in the future. I don't want men to look like wearing their little brothers coat:


"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.





0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users