Hi all. I'm a new member in this incarnation, but have been coming here with another account for a few years. That account stopped functioning, so Sator has kindly readmitted my new account. Anyway...
I recently decided to give the trouser draft from Jane Rhinehart's book a run through. I actually drafted both hers and Mansie's simultaneously, but elected to make up the Rhinehart draft first (which I'm still busy finishing off). I have a nice piece of linen for the Mansie draft.
I don't know if anyone else has tried making up her draft (though I recall seeing the draft in another thread), but there are a few problemss I found that I thought I'd pass on in case anyone does want to follow her method:
- Firstly, she only allows for inlays on the inseams and seat of the back part, rather than both the in- and side-seams inlays recommended in the MTOC chapter on Inlays. I considered just following the MTOC advice, but went with her method for the sake of following her method as an exercise. I now think it is a mistake, I'll say why further down.
- There are some bothersome errors in both the cutting and making up sections. One particular error (or so it seems to me compared to the other drafts I've made up) is that she instructs the reader to cut out twice as many waistband linings and curtains than is required. She also has you fiddling about over the pocket bags for the front pockets, where most other methods have you just cut a fairly simple bag and perform any clipping for accommodation during construction.
- She also instructs the reader to cut four hip pocket facings (two chalked out on double thickness), yet also has you cut two more of a different width from the silesia! (Perhaps I missed something, but as far as I can see these last two are superfluous). There are two upper fly facings where only one is needed (or she forgets to tell you what to do with one of them), and there is only one pocket tab chalked out rather than two.
- I made only one hip pocket which left me more room for cutting the front pocket facings on the selvage. She recommends moving both or one of these latter from the selvage edge, if they are crowded out, and then overcasting the edges, but the front pockets (which are in-line seam pockets) suffer more from the extra bulk of overcast edges than would the hip pocket facing pieces. Not to mention the fact that your hands will pass over those front pocket facing pieces more than the hip pockets, imo. So it's probably best that both of those are selvage edges if they are exposed rather than turned.
- Perhaps she's not the only one who is a bit spare on making up details, but she goes into detail about things that don't matter half as much as some things that actually do matter. It's no good mentioning that a piece of canvas is needed for the waistband, then giving no clear instruction about what to do with it. She also fails to mention how exactly the waistband pieces should be attached to enable the finishing of the front ends. I had to fall back on improvisation and other methods to finish the waistband at the fronts.
- I also think her method of constructing the fly - though it produces a decent enough result - is not done at the most convenient stage of construction. She has you stitch the side seams before the fly is even started so you end up having to cart twice as much cloth to-and-fro between the work-table and sewing machine. In most other methods the pockets and fly are complete, or near completion, before the leg seams are even basted.
- Now, about the inlays, or lack thereof. Since Rhinehart's book was published in 1975 I have sneaking feeling that the draft might be a bit Tony Manero in regard to styling: think John Travolta on the disco floor in tight white trousers. Better still, don't.
- It seems to me that there is not nearly enough ease in the thighs. Either that or I seriously had my drafting square upside down. I knocked up a muslin of this draft some months ago and thought they were a bit tight, so I actually added another half inch to the inlays, but when I come to stitch the inseams tomorrow I fear they'll still be like Tom Ford trousers.
I know the Cabrera book is the basic text recommended here, but I just wanted to mention these things in case anyone else was considering following Rhinehart's book. I'll post some pictures of my attempt when I'm done.
Edited by Henry Hall, 31 August 2013 - 03:38 AM.