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#1 maxee_sg

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Posted 18 September 2013 - 12:25 PM

Hi all, i have a question related to woman jacket here.

123.jpg

 

Ialso have the puffing out issue at lapel area ( as shown in the pic). I have tried to add dart, and construct the area in a different way. but yet the 'puffing out' effect still there.

 

I sincerely hope experience cutters and tailors could share views and advice with me in solving the issue here.

 

Thank you very much

 

 


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#2 posaune

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Posted 18 September 2013 - 09:07 PM

I would look for problems at hip level.-  It is too tight. And the darting at waist is not good.

lg

posaune


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#3 maxee_sg

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 02:24 AM

hi posaune

thanks for the advise. anyway, this is a picture i've found from internet and shows the 'puffing' effect that i encounter frequently. i would like to find out what are the possible solutions for this 'puffing' effect.

thanks
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#4 jcsprowls

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 02:25 AM

The problem with this specific example is the waist is suppressed too much for the pattern/style to support. Other architectural elements need to be brought into the pattern to achieve this silhouette.

 

In my opinion, all women's coats need a hammer dart under the lapel to control the roll as the rest of the coat front drapes over the breast. This would clean up the drag lines I see at the breast angling up into the right top armhole.

 

I'd also execute two front darts each side in order to get the degree of suppression sought, here - too much is being taken from the front and back sideseams. This is what I suspect your problem might be, maxee.

 

On men, I'd consider a hammer dart to be optional. I'd definitely do it if I was custom making for a barrel chested, portly or overly-developed chest/waist ratio. Without seeing a photo of your body configuration, I don't know if it's necessary, though.

 

Either way, all corrections for this problem need to happen at the pattern stage and in the ironwork/shaping stages. These style problems can't be altered away without recutting the garment.


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#5 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 05:37 AM

I am inclined to agree with Posaune, there is a tightness on the front button when the coat is fastened due to a shortness on the front edge.

If you follow the angle of the crease from the right shoulder, through the button and onto the hip, the line from button to hip is causing a tightness,
The remedy is to let out the hips on both sideseams to allow more room over the front edge.
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#6 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 12:19 PM

The breast dart ist too small. The breast dart can be moved into the lapel dart and chest dart.

In order to that you need the literature that shows you how to do that.


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#7 maxee_sg

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 03:00 AM

First of all, thank you very much for the inputs

 

Hi jcsprowls - i have done a google search about hammer dart. There isn't much information about the hammer dart. The closest i've found is the dart that drawn is red. It has been found in french drafting system. please correct me if i am wrong. 

 

 

Hi Mansie Wauch - Thank you very much for your suggestion. I will definitely look watch out for the points you have mentioned in my next jacket.  :twitch:

 

HI Der Zuschneider - I hope I read and understand your advice correctly. I have draft a front panel which dart added (pencil marking). But somehow, i find it not so appropriate. I feel the dart the draw in red could be the solution. I hope you could correct me if i am wrong. 

 

CAM00336.jpg


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#8 jcsprowls

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Posted 20 September 2013 - 07:29 AM

You won't find much on the WWW using the term "hammer dart" because that's workroom terminology. Few people (unless you rip down hundreds upon hundreds of garments) know they exist.

 

The draft you're referring to is antiquated and counter-intuitive. It will work. But, it tries too hard.

 

Try looking at Jeffery D's blog and searching for the phrase "cugno martello" to advance to a picture of the finished result. The dart, when seamed, is about the same angle as the roll line and is well-covered by the revere.


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#9 maxee_sg

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Posted 21 September 2013 - 02:49 AM

You won't find much on the WWW using the term "hammer dart" because that's workroom terminology. Few people (unless you rip down hundreds upon hundreds of garments) know they exist.

 

The draft you're referring to is antiquated and counter-intuitive. It will work. But, it tries too hard.

 

Try looking at Jeffery D's blog and searching for the phrase "cugno martello" to advance to a picture of the finished result. The dart, when seamed, is about the same angle as the roll line and is well-covered by the revere.

Hi jscprowls, 

 

thanks for the information. I have read and found 'cugno martello'. bigger lapel and soft fabric would be able to cover the dart ( the small little dart that goes horizontal), but, i guess smaller lapel ( 2 1/2 inches, this customer likes small lapel, the smaller the merrier :Cry: ) and more structure/hard fabric may find trouble to hide the dart.

 

No matter what i will cut a pattern with that dart and identify the limitation. Hopefully i will be innovative enough to improvise the dart so it could solve my problem.  

 

millions thanks.


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#10 greger

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Posted 21 September 2013 - 10:38 AM

The dart is underneath, so it won't show. The cloth that shows is called the facing and there is no dart in that.


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#11 Katherine Maylin

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 04:03 PM

DZ has it; the bust dart is too small.
On some figure types and especially when a close fit is required your only option is a patrol cut ( princess seaming) or an over bust cut. Only a small amount of extra dart can be taken out under the lapel sometimes this is still not enough.
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#12 maxee_sg

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 04:30 PM

Hi Greger - Thanks for the explanation

 

Hi Katherine -  Well, I am still cracking for a solution.


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#13 Katherine Maylin

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Posted 25 September 2013 - 05:23 PM

Sorry Maxee, I have highlighted the problem and not the solution; this would be: to draft or use a pattern where there is a seam that runs from the shoulder over the bust and put all of the bust dart in there. On a fitting pin out the amount of gaping and that will indicate the amount of extra dart you will need. When tailoring draw up the bridle a bit too.
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#14 maxee_sg

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Posted 26 September 2013 - 02:21 PM

HI Katherine. Thanks for the solution. I guess you were talking about princess cut, like the one at the pic?

547072_516052048466303_950071127_n.jpg

( this photo is way too big)...



#15 Katherine Maylin

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Posted 26 September 2013 - 03:21 PM

Yes, that's correct.
Although looking at the cloth pieces there, you have no bust dart at all and that's where the problem is. When the front and the side front panel are sewn these pieces will be flat. They should sew up so that a shape is formed to accommodate the bust.
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#16 maxee_sg

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Posted 26 September 2013 - 04:26 PM

Yes, that's correct.
Although looking at the cloth pieces there, you have no bust dart at all and that's where the problem is. When the front and the side front panel are sewn these pieces will be flat. They should sew up so that a shape is formed to accommodate the bust.

HI Katherine, noted~~ :thumbsup:


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