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Jazz Age Tailoring


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#19 carpu65

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Posted 26 February 2014 - 11:08 AM

These are more 1910s that 1920s suits.

Sure,this silhouette and these cuts are in very early 20s too,but the "roaring 20s" silhouette is different.

 

http://www.cutterand...?showtopic=2566


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#20 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 25 December 2014 - 07:15 AM

 

Very nice construction as fundament for new ideas, good for the one who speaks German.

You only have to draft this example in full scale and then steal and translate all the eases, lengths and forms into a modern system, and then, there you go!

 

KPH is 172cm (92/82/98)

Length: 1/2 Kph minus 8.0

 

IMG_7255_zps324355ee.jpg

 

Was playing again with this old draft today. It still would work.

 

The back and armscye sits tight without ease, the chest has 3.5cm ease, which is too much. I would move 1.0cm into the armscye and 0.25cm in the back.
The coat is still tight with 2.75cm ease in the chest. You need to be slim with 10cm difference between chest and waist. All seams are 2/3cm.
The balance is OK. Backneck mirror probably 1cm wider. You need to use heavy fabric, the draft needs good iron work and a stable skirt, much ease there.


www.berlinbespokesuits.com




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