Jump to content


Photo

Rundschau Women's Trouser Draft


  • Please log in to reply
3 replies to this topic

#1 J. Maclochlainn

J. Maclochlainn

    Master

  • Senior Professional
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,127 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 28 April 2014 - 01:27 PM

I just realised that the Rundschau women's trouser draft is no where to be found. Did it never make it on or did I miss it somewhere else?
  • tailleuse likes this
Silly Cognoscenti, Drape is for windows!

#2 posaune

posaune

    Pro

  • Super Pro
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 956 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Germany

Posted 28 April 2014 - 07:12 PM

A ladies draft does not differ much the trouser sits just tighter and closer to the body.

 

You can take the gent's draft. Fill in instead 2.5 cm (s-s5)  when drafting the CB seat seam 4 cm (average, 3 for round butt, 5 for big hip). The front trouser  (without pleats) is 1/4 hip - 1cm (+ seam)  (b-B1). You do the center of the back trouser (m) with 2 cm instead of 1 cm. The hip ease at back is 1/4 hip + 1 cm (+ seam.) The + seam is if you follow the gents draft on this page.

lg

posaune


  • pfaff260, tailleuse, jeffrey2117 and 1 other like this

#3 Der Zuschneider

Der Zuschneider

    Master

  • Senior Professional
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,429 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:TX, Houston
  • Interests:- German Cutting Systems
    - Modern Tailoring by German Semi-Traditional Standards

Posted 30 April 2014 - 05:29 AM

Women also have bigger hip bow and a different Spaltdurchmesser calculation.

You had better find an original women trouser construction to see the differences.


  • tailleuse and mochreach like this
www.berlinbespokesuits.com

#4 posaune

posaune

    Pro

  • Super Pro
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 956 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Germany

Posted 30 April 2014 - 06:08 AM

No, the Spaltdurchmesser is (in my opion) the same calculation as with the gent's. It is Hip/4 - (4 to 6) cm, depends on body type as in gents. And the hip bow is derived from distance hip to waist. It s more with ladies but that does not change the draft in itself.

The woman's draft from Rundschau is in my opinion old fashioned. I use the more modern (Blush: it is the gents without seam allowance) and an angle for the CB-seat -seam; I can give here exactly the diameter I want.

lg

posaune


Edited by posaune, 30 April 2014 - 06:09 AM.

  • tailleuse and jeffrey2117 like this




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users