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shirt collars interface


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#1 posaune

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Posted 01 October 2014 - 11:14 PM

Today I ripped an old worn (english) shirt somebody gave me. I like to do this if I see something in the construction which interests me.

Now when I came to the collar, I saw it had a fusable interfacing. It was made out of two pieces.  One small which was cut like the collar was fused to the bigger one which the size of the collar with s.a. Okay - nothing unusual.

What makes me wonder was both were cut in the bias.

Have you ever done this and why?

lg

posaune


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#2 napoli

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Posted 02 October 2014 - 12:42 AM

Hi Posaune, now i can return some of your help.

Bias is done so it stretch the collar band better but other piece should be straight so it looks better.
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#3 gatto

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Posted 02 October 2014 - 01:38 AM

Ciao Napoli ! ricambio i saluti.

 

 

Hi Posaune, 

 

It is correct !!

 

I do the same: collar  on bias and the other piece (if you want a stiffer collar) straight !

 

ciao,

gatto


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#4 posaune

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Posted 02 October 2014 - 01:58 AM

Thanks friends,

the stand was on the bias too but the end (where the button and buttonhole sits) had another straight cut piece interface glued over the bias.


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#5 gatto

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Posted 02 October 2014 - 02:53 AM

That sound strange to me.

 

I do cut the stand on the bias to, but I have  never heard about another piece of fusible lining under buttonhole  and button .

 

Gatto


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#6 Terri

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Posted 02 October 2014 - 07:35 AM

I have seen the stand on the bias with and extra straight grain piece in the buttonhole area.
On the fall of the collar, I often cut one piece the full size then a second layer 1/4" away from the seam to the stand. This way there is a 1/4" area with one layer only where the fall bends.
Does that make sense?
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#7 napoli

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Posted 02 October 2014 - 08:29 AM

Hi Posaune , Gatto and folks,

 

This is interesting, i have never seen it, could you take a pic?

 

The only similar thing that i know, is called in Italian the " reinforzo", the reinforce, that are the points of the collar, another layer that covers only the peaks. Never seen that on the stand. Interesting.



#8 posaune

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Posted 03 October 2014 - 02:12 AM

collar_zpsae9a73f4.png

here is the ripped collar.

lg

posaune


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#9 napoli

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Posted 12 October 2014 - 12:12 PM

collar_zpsae9a73f4.png

here is the ripped collar.

lg

posaune

 

 

Strange, i have never seen it. Where and when was the shirt made?

 

The interlining is soft, or strong?  I mean the only use i can imagine is to reinforce and prevent to stitch it in case it is too soft. It is normal or strong, we have an X- File here. Calling Mulder :hyper:  :super:



#10 posaune

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Posted 12 October 2014 - 07:42 PM

Napoli,

There are 2 sorts - with glue and without. The  red has glue. The blue and red in the stand is glued too. The blue in the collar is not glued.  So you have the feeling of a not glued collar and you will see no bubbles later. The strength of both is the same and is intermediate (right word?? not to strong and not to weak). The brand is Charles Tyrwhitt Jermyn Street London.

Today I'll use that technique.

lg

posaune


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#11 napoli

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Posted 15 October 2014 - 09:37 AM

Please take pics. Interesting.






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