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In Praise of the Seasonal Wardrobe

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#1 Sator



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Posted 16 October 2014 - 04:51 PM

Tailors should be mindful of the seasonal needs of their clients, including those of clients who travel on business. People should be made aware of the positive aspects of having a seasonal wardrobe rather than wearing the same thing day in, day out, year in year out. 


Firstly, it looks good. It's nice to wear warm colours when it is summery, and darker colours in the winter. 


Secondly, the clothes last longer if they are given a seasonal break. 


Thirdly, it's just more comfortable.


Fourthly, it gives the wearer a dramatic professional advantage over rivals to be able to look smart in an ultra cool summer weave suit while everyone else has been reduced to looking like sweaty slobs. It might make the difference between whether you seal a deal, or get a promotion. If you know that board room is freezing cold, then wear that heavy three piece if you know the meeting is going to be long. 


Lastly, it looks more bespoke. In the stores, they generally have relatively little in the way of seasonal business wear. It's all the same sort of light worsted over and over again.


Now, there are those who think it is great to wear either 7 Oz or 24 Oz cloth year round. I don't recommend it. It's much better to seasonally adjust what you wear. Always insist that clients order extra trousers when the suit is made of lighter cloth. Clients should be reminded that it is standard for a tailor to charge extra if a summer coat is made up partially lined (the seams have to be finished so as to look neat and this takes extra labour and skill).


Be mindful though that in places where it is really wintery the indoor heating is often excessive. Likewise, in hot climates the air conditioning can be equally Arctic. Still, you still may have to go out to face the blizzard or sauna outside at some point if you want to get home.


For those clients in wintery climes (or who are forced to travel to them), you should encourage them to order a good overcoat.  In fact, it is good to have at least two overcoats, one shorter and lighter topcoat for the spring and summer, and another heavier one for when it really gets cold. Ideally, it is best to have a formal overcoat such as a Chesterfield, as well as something much more casual. Remember the wife/girlfriend is going to be jealous, so encourage your client to bring her in to have an overcoat made too — preferably one made of cashmere! Make sure your cutting skills for the female figure are up to scratch!


Tailors should ask their clients what they need to carry in their overcoat pockets. It's nice to have pockets large enough to fit that iPad Mini or Kindle to read in the train on the way home.


Also encourage your clients to order three piece suits. The extra waistcoat means that you can still wear the same suit when it gets a bit cooler in the autumn or in springtime. It gives the suit more versatility. Also a three piece ups the level of formality of the suit, as well as giving the wearer extra pockets for smart phones, memory sticks etc. If it's warmer, just leave the waistcoat at home. 


#2 Kimberly



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Posted 19 October 2014 - 11:59 PM

Great ideas for us aspiring tailors. Many thanks for taking the time to post - it is appreciated.

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