Nobody writes much today, so if you are bored, here is a question.
I cut and sewed a coat for an older woman (me). I'm big busted and I feared like pest the hollow room between shoulder and bust (looks like a duck's beak). So I put a "plack" in to cover the (eventual) gap. I do not like the rigid look in woman's clothing so I cut the plack in the bias.The plack fabric is not made with animals hair - it is a special weave which results in rectangles - not squares like linen.
I did not cut a "pair". I cut both with the same bias direction.
Now a fold appears at one side between shoulder seam and notch of the front armhole. As I had to altered the right side in the upper fabric a lot I'm not sure if this fold is the product from the cut of the bias plack or I did not follow this alteration enough for this side with the plack.
It can also be that the shoulder pad was not altered enough because the shoulder point is more forward than the left (because of accident).
Okay, I have to rip. But neverteheless I would like to know if there can be a problem with different bias directions in placks or canvas.
By the way how you fit a shoulder pad? Especially if one shoulder is more foreward than the other? I take always the ready made.