Jump to content


Photo

are you bored? question about "Plack"


  • Please log in to reply
7 replies to this topic

#1 posaune

posaune

    Pro

  • Super Pro
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 956 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Germany

Posted 24 November 2014 - 07:57 AM

Nobody writes much today, so if you are bored, here is a question.

I cut and sewed a coat for an older woman (me). I'm big busted and I feared like pest the hollow room  between shoulder and bust (looks like a duck's beak). So I put a "plack" in to cover the (eventual) gap. I do not like the rigid look in woman's clothing so I cut the plack in the bias.The plack fabric is not made with animals hair - it is a special weave which results in rectangles - not squares like linen.

I did not cut a "pair". I cut both with the same bias direction.

Now a fold appears at one side between shoulder seam and notch of the front armhole. As I had to altered the right side in the upper fabric a lot I'm not sure if this fold is the product from the cut of the bias plack or I did not follow this alteration enough for this side with the plack.

It can also be that the shoulder pad was not altered enough because the shoulder point is more forward than the left (because of accident).

Okay, I have to rip. But neverteheless I would like to know if there can be a problem with different bias directions in placks or canvas.

posaune

By the way how you fit a shoulder pad? Especially if one shoulder is more foreward than the other? I take always the ready made.


  • pfaff260, tailleuse and Schneiderfrei like this

#2 Schneidergott

Schneidergott

    Master

  • Moderator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,680 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Scotland

Posted 24 November 2014 - 08:10 PM

First a couple of questions:

 

1. What kind of cut did you use? Panelled seams (Teilungsnähte) over the bust points or darts below the BP and into the armhole?

2. How thick are your shoulderpads, are they soft or stiff (just wadding, with foam and a piece of canvas)?

 

Shoulderpads for the forward shoulder: I've seen a colleague removing the wadding to make room for  the shoulder bone, just leaving the top layer intact.

Apart from that option you can make it flat(ter) in the front and thicker (maybe even longer) in the rear area (to fill out the most likely hollow/ empty area of your rear shoulder).


  • tailleuse and Schneiderfrei like this

"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#3 posaune

posaune

    Pro

  • Super Pro
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 956 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Germany

Posted 24 November 2014 - 10:03 PM

Schneidergott, I did panels starting at shoulder seam over bustpoint.The shoulder pads are made of felt, wadding and covered with canvas. No foam. (Are called Schneiderpolster in my shop). They are about 1.5 cm thick.

I think, I can thinning out a bit in front without having to redo the pad.

lg

posaune



#4 Schneidergott

Schneidergott

    Master

  • Moderator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,680 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Scotland

Posted 24 November 2014 - 11:28 PM

You might have to hollow the seams above the bust point more.

 

I would recommend to cut the canvas/ chest piece the same way you cut the front panels. That means 2 pieces with a seam. It's up to you to either put in a V-shaped piece of straight canvas (10 to 12 cm long) at the shoulder or to cut the outer piece on the bias. Both will allow for extra room for the shoulder bones.


"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#5 posaune

posaune

    Pro

  • Super Pro
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 956 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Germany

Posted 25 November 2014 - 04:33 AM

Aha, I think I get it. Good advice to cut the Plack (Chestpiece?) like the panels. The first part of the Plack will be straight in the center (do some brigde"ing") the second will be more flexible and soft in the room to the armhole. (I do not think that I need to cut the second panel in the bias, it is bias enough). I do not want to hollow it out more to avoid the dreaded look.

I have to do an overcoat - I'll try it.

lg

posaune

Attached Files


  • tailleuse likes this

#6 Schneidergott

Schneidergott

    Master

  • Moderator
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,680 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Scotland

Posted 25 November 2014 - 06:36 AM

Looks like your dart is too pointy at the bust point.

Try to soften the lines by making the outer line of the dart rounder just above the BP and let it run smoothly into the seam below.

 

15251239543_9bce0e3400_h.jpg


  • tailleuse likes this

"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#7 posaune

posaune

    Pro

  • Super Pro
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 956 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Germany

Posted 25 November 2014 - 07:39 AM

Your are right Schneidergott, this would be real pointy more like a knight's armor. Hehehe

lg posaune

(I rounded that seam when I cut out the pattern)


  • tailleuse likes this

#8 greger

greger

    Master

  • Senior Professional
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,122 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Washington, USA

Posted 25 November 2014 - 09:37 AM

This conversation reminds me of Poulins 7xs book, and certainly not of his earlier book.




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users