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The Modern Sakko, 1916

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#1 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 26 December 2014 - 05:35 AM

Das moderne Sakko, Schneidermeister #16, 1922

 

I have restored those pictures for everybody to practice old cutting. 

 

My Christmas gift for all beginners.

Sakko1916_1_zps5cead872.jpg

 

Sakko1916_2_zpsc87d45ad.jpg

 

Masssatz:

Koerperhoehe/Body hight: 172cm

Oberweite/Chest:                 92cm

Unterweite/Waist                  82cm

Gesaessweite/Hip                98cm

 

Coat length = 1/2 Body hight - 8.0cm

 

Improvements:

H - A   = 1/4 chest + 1.25

z - M   = 1/8 chest + 2.0

F - FF = 1/4 waist + 1.0

G - C  = 1/4 chest - 1.0

A - G  = 1/4AB

Di - e  = 1.5cm

 

Lapel dart only 2.0cm, 4cm is too big

Front neck tip is straight like today!


Edited by Der Zuschneider, 05 January 2015 - 11:04 AM.

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#2 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 26 December 2014 - 05:44 AM

IMG_7255_zps324355ee.jpg


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#3 Terri

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Posted 27 December 2014 - 12:36 AM

Thank you

#4 greger

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Posted 27 December 2014 - 08:18 AM

Very nice.

#5 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 28 December 2014 - 03:28 PM

Practice, practice makes the master.


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#6 Schneidergott

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Posted 29 December 2014 - 05:59 AM

So, when will we see the finished jacket?


"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#7 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 29 December 2014 - 08:10 AM

If someone wants to make that coat for practice, then we will see one. Right now, nobody even wants to practice the draft here.

Apprentices today, they want to become tailors without practice, it is too much work and struggle for today's time to streeve for a goal.


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#8 Terri

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Posted 29 December 2014 - 11:52 PM

Well, if my workload included that time period, I would try it out, since it is close to my favourite era, but I think I am working on 1930's, 1760's and 1840's in the next few months.

#9 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 30 December 2014 - 08:48 AM

It looks like the forum and tailoring is dead.


Edited by Der Zuschneider, 04 January 2015 - 02:25 AM.

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#10 Terri

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Posted 05 January 2015 - 06:22 AM

i printed it out and started to draft for amusement, but it is so difficult to read the fractions!
I thought I would come home and look on the ipad but they are still fuzzy.
Not a problem when an amount is given as you can work backwards, but I will have to go through it and make notes before trying again.

Maybe I will try a half scale at home.

#11 greger

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Posted 05 January 2015 - 07:57 AM

It needs to be scanned at a higher resolution.
It would be nice if an English version was posted.
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#12 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 05 January 2015 - 10:07 AM

If you download it, you can zoom in and see then the smallest letters.

 

Even if you cannot read German, it is very simple to understand. Once you have understood it, it makes an "Aha" effect to the modern Rundschau system and all the question you might have I can answer. If you like the fashion style it is easy to translate it to a modern cutting system.

I have already made improvements, to be considered to think about it. I have compared it with the 1931 book, they have some more logical improvements.

 

The draft is just fun to hang it on the wall looking good.


Edited by Der Zuschneider, 05 January 2015 - 11:08 AM.

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#13 Terri

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Posted 05 January 2015 - 10:44 AM

I can follow along and use google translate as well as my dictionary for some words.
I will download it and I am sure that will be easier to read.
Would you say that there are German words or terms that are outdated and or untranslatable? My Swiss colleagues commented on that fact when I asked them to translate other things.
I wish I could easily read the paragraphs/description at the end of the draft after Punkt 3-Punkt 5.

I agree about the lapel dart of 4cm being a bit large, but in my experience, darting like that really gives a three dimensional rounded lapel.

I would like to draft it up then overlay an interpretation using my own drafting methods just to see the differences.

#14 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 05 January 2015 - 11:12 AM

You don't need the description, those are only fashion explanations.

You only need the drafting instructions and there are no important words to know.


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#15 Schneidergott

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Posted 05 January 2015 - 08:03 PM

 

If you download it, you can zoom in and see then the smallest letters.

 

Just click on the images and follow the photobucket link to download the ca. 6 MB files. The image showing in this thread will just be blurry with only 190 kb.


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"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#16 posaune

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Posted 05 January 2015 - 08:47 PM

The translation, Terry, (as good as I can make it):

punkt 3 - Punkt 5= 5 cm
you take out at side dart 3 cm and bust dart 2 cm
all waist shaping must be made along the line F-Punkt 5.
you must shape the darts exactly like shown.
The back width (RB) ist enlarged artifically so the shoulder is larger too and you must enlarge the front shoulder at Bi.
The front part is to ease in at the front seam (shown here with the circs) at the lapels  und by z from the dartside and a
bit in front of the armhole.
You must do heavy stretching ironwork at shoulder and neck hole (shown through the lines).

lg

posaune

süsson is very old! means dart


Edited by posaune, 05 January 2015 - 08:49 PM.

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#17 Terri

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Posted 05 January 2015 - 11:24 PM

You don't need the description, those are only fashion explanations.
You only need the drafting instructions and there are no important words to know.


Well its a good thing that you don't get to decide what I what to know or need to know! :)
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#18 Terri

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Posted 05 January 2015 - 11:34 PM

posaune, thanks !
Süsson was exactly one of those words that I could not find!
Thank you for the explanation above.

When I am interpreting different period styles, I like to make a pattern using a draft of the era, just to try to understand the thinking behind it, the shaping, the placement of style features, width of lapels, waist suppression, gorge angles etc, then I incorporate style features as I want and need to my own drafting system. I can then adapt for the body shape I am dealing with, and the fabric I am given and since I often have to cut straight into fabric and may only have one fitting after that, I need to be sure it will work.
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