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Interesting Internet Reads (while they last)


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#1 greger

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Posted 16 February 2015 - 06:15 PM

Charlie Allen interview http://www.vice.com/...source=vicefbus

#2 SPOOKIETOO

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Posted 16 February 2015 - 11:11 PM

Gregor - Maybe its just me...but this particular article just comes off as self-serving schlock.

I don't think anyone on this forum would deny the long standing superiority of Savile Row over most of the world - not just us Americans. But as the Row is dying, many of the practices of American RTW and MTM are actually trying to improve. Also no man in my family has ever owned a suit coat that did not include extra chest structure and shoulder pads.

Mr. Allen's examples were even wildly incorrect...on this very forum - not too long ago, a photo of 3 Huntsman execs was posted and they all had considerable drape in their jackets. And while I'm certain Cary Grant did use British tailors, this business of "no structure" in his coats is just BS. One look at that man's horrendous physique when not in a suit, and I dare anyone on this forum to explain how they contained "no structure". Magic beans perhaps? Less stiffness, lighter weight absolutely - else it would be difficult to achieve the beautiful drape - the drape that helped camouflage his incredably hollow chest.

Mr Allen sprinkled in a few facts, but mostly the article was a grandiose gesture of self-serving drivle.

I for one am very sad to be seeing the upcoming extinction of Savile Row. But its due to a matter of economics...only so many people can afford $3000-$6000 for a single suit and no amount of American slamming is going to convince a father to buy a suit as opposed to putting braces on his kid's teeth or foregoing the annual family holiday.

I give this article a thumbs down....no real substance. Sorry.

Edited by SPOOKIETOO, 16 February 2015 - 11:18 PM.

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#3 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 17 February 2015 - 07:26 AM

I believe it is meant as a joke  :yes:   Especially considering the unsavoury nature of the accompanying "Most Popular" links.  Who could believe that American tailors observed the 'British Shoulders' but couldn't understand them?? As soon as you pulled one apart you could understand it. Copy it? Sure!


Edited by Schneiderfrei, 17 February 2015 - 07:52 AM.

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Shell made out of gold
Found on a beach picked up and you held so close


#4 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 17 February 2015 - 07:30 AM

As an oldie from the tailoring trade (Retired) I don't know who 'Charlie Allen' is, but  he is talking through his backside! If he meant it in fun it was in bad taste, and he should keep his thoughts and limited history of the tailoring trade to himself.


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#5 greger

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Posted 17 February 2015 - 09:25 AM

Didn't say I believe it all. He clearly doesn't know why some American coats are baggy. I wonder why so many SR tailors think they are the best when they have never worked for tailors in other countries. From lack of experience they can't possibly know. And that goes for other tailors in other countries to. Never cared for the tailoring art in America, so find other countries tailoring interesting. But the best so often don't seem to belong to any country.

Anyway, I hope others post articles of tailors here from whatever country in this thread.

Drape is only one way to make the chest seem larger than it is.

Edited by greger, 17 February 2015 - 09:26 AM.

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#6 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 17 February 2015 - 03:06 PM

I am interested to know why some American coats are baggy greger.


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#7 greger

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Posted 17 February 2015 - 07:43 PM

I don't know. Fads come and go. It was before my time, since I was rather young. Like drape and the Americans went goofy over it. It is one of those things where the answer is, "You had to be there". It was the "in" thing. The US went through several of these and each one was different. If you look up Peter Gunn TV series he wears one of those styles that was so popular back then. When I was 4 or 5 I asked mom if the back center waist seam was cut outwards, because it seems to poke out there, but she said it wasn't. Some of the American "sack" jackets were very different. A fine narrow waisted coat would be very wrong in some crowds. Dressing is an art. Somethings can look sloppy, but sometimes their is more to it and it maybe fine art. A tailor needs to be aware of why he is making something. The better he understands why the more it can become better art.

Edited by greger, 17 February 2015 - 07:49 PM.

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#8 Schneidergott

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Posted 19 February 2015 - 04:05 AM

I'd like to see where he has 8 inches in his garments to let out.


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"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#9 greger

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Posted 19 February 2015 - 09:36 AM

Who said 8 inches?

#10 Schneidergott

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Posted 19 February 2015 - 05:03 PM

 

 

And I bet they fall apart in about an hour, while in theory a suit from you would last me the rest of my life. I only say “in theory” because of my increasing fatness.
You can bring it back, it's got inlays where you can let it out eight inches over the years. To compensate for the fatness!

 

Here you go!


"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#11 Alievens

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Posted 19 February 2015 - 06:43 PM

 

Here you go!

 


that's 2" in the chest + 2" waist + 2" hips and 2" hem = 8"

 

?

 

On a separate note, I want bespoke white trousers and a hat from the tailor smurf please!

 


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#12 posaune

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Posted 20 February 2015 - 02:33 AM

OT

Schneidergott, I like your old (now the new) avatar best.

lg

posaune


Edited by posaune, 20 February 2015 - 09:34 PM.


#13 greger

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Posted 20 February 2015 - 12:20 PM

Oh! I guess I didn't read that well.
As mansie said, there is a bunch of blather in it. But I find it rather interesting how britts talk about stuff.

The avatar is an eye catcher, which is rather nice. A good one for me is peeking around a corner, because I'm hiding.

#14 Henry Hall

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Posted 11 March 2015 - 09:00 AM

It's a piece for 'hip' magazine, so there's some swaggering in there. It's not all bollocks though; there definitely is this thing among the American apparel crowd that insists the average American man has the physique of a barrel-chested woodcutter and therefore requires more ease and less padding. I don't know if all people really think that or just follow what Alan 'fancy pants' Flusser wrote in his over-quoted book, which is where I read it.


Each phenomenon which is taken up should be treated with as much thoroughness as possible at that standpoint... One thing at a time and that done well!

 

- Otto Jespersen (How to Teach a Foreign Language).





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