Having a better idea of drafting a bodice and some of the not so obvious issues involved in balance, I wished to consider what was important for an adaptable sleeve draft.
Like many forum members the main draft I have used to learn shirt drafting is the Rundschau Shirt block from the 60s. It is quite a good demonstration of many features that are quite modern and systematic, in the way that German drafts are famous for. Unfortunately, the sleeve draft does not really follow that promising start.
The Rundschau Sleeve draft is made on a folded sheet of paper. The determination of the cap height is prescribed as a proportion of the bust measurement and would be very difficult to alter. The cap height is short and designed for greater mobility rather than beauty. The contour of the cap is simple and not like modern sleeves. The maximum diameter of the sleeve is determined as the half scye measurement at a right angle from A, rather than using the scye measurements on the diagonal.
I wanted a better way of looking at sleeves.
The dimensions required for drafting a sleeve are:
Measured from the neck-line, over the shoulder to the wrist/carpal bones. Although, it has been said by Gramountoto that the sleeve end/cuff should end 8 cm from the thumb tip, it is also a fashion decision.
This is a direct measure around the wrist at the widest part, keeping a finger under the tape to allow for ease.
This must be derived from the bodice draft.
This is a decision based on the function of the shirt. A working shirt, required to allow considerable range of movement needs a relatively short cap. A shirt that is required to have clean lines where movement is not required will allow a higher cap.
For a more fitted shirt it might be desirable to measure the biceps and forearm.
A useful sleeve draft must be able to accommodate all these variables.
I have collected 7 sleeve drafts from pages within these fora for discussion and comparison. One useful way of regarding the drafts is in historical order, thus:
Edited by Schneiderfrei, 17 March 2015 - 03:55 AM.