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Timeless suit?


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#1 carpu65

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Posted 22 March 2015 - 03:08 PM

Can be this suit (see the link below) of French couturier Jean Patoù ,cut in 1924 by Robert Cumberland or Samuelson & Son,an exemple of timeless style?

I mean,can be worn today (obviously without spats,cane,homburg) without looking like a period costume?

 

 http://postimg.org/image/vay8aakdz/


Edited by carpu65, 23 March 2015 - 03:32 AM.


#2 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 22 March 2015 - 04:14 PM

It is very elegant.  I think the length of the jacket is quite appropriate.  You may be right carpu65. The gentleman has a nice figure which helps.


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#3 greger

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Posted 22 March 2015 - 05:56 PM

Is it timeless style? No. But anything goes today.

Didn't the catchy phrase "timeless style" show up in the 80s? Therefore, there never was a timeless style. Its timing was perfect in the 80s as advertisement. But why is it around today?

#4 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 22 March 2015 - 08:45 PM

But then, perhaps, not timeless but very forward looking??


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#5 Terri

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Posted 22 March 2015 - 09:30 PM

Timeless? I don't know. Beautiful, definitely.

#6 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 22 March 2015 - 10:56 PM

Yes, it could be a timless suit, just make the suit in modern 8 - 10 oz farbic and the lapel at 8cm.


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#7 SPOOKIETOO

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Posted 23 March 2015 - 12:18 AM

The term "timeless style" probably did originate in the 80's as so much of all areas of design clothing, architectue, interiors, etc. was influenced by classic design concepts. However in most instances the 80's placed a very distinct stamp on each interpretation causing most of those renditions to look anything but timeless. When viewed today those items tend to scream 1980's.

Todays aesthetic does seem considerably more timeless as once again all aspects of design, not just clothing, tends to be more "anything goes." Yes there are certain trends, but I can't remember a time in my life that design was more diverse.

I agree with DZ, a lighter weight fabric and slight variation in lapel and virtually no one would suspect the suit was vintage.

By next fall, if the heavier weight fabrics make the predicted comeback the suit as shown may be perfect.

#8 tailleuse

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Posted 23 March 2015 - 02:36 AM

It's a handsome suit, but the heavy cloth used places it in an earlier era.  Which is not to say the right person couldn't get away with it.


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#9 tailleuse

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Posted 23 March 2015 - 02:38 AM

Yes, it could be a timless suit, just make the suit in modern 8 - 10 oz farbic and the lapel at 8cm.

 

What ounce range of fabric would you say was used for the suit?


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#10 tailleuse

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Posted 23 March 2015 - 02:47 AM

It is very elegant.  I think the length of the jacket is quite appropriate.  You may be right carpu65. The gentleman has a nice figure which helps.

 

It appears to be Jean Patou himself.   I wonder if he used any couture-derived techniques on his men's suits.The Wikipedia article says he used women's dress fabrics for men's ties.


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#11 carpu65

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Posted 23 March 2015 - 02:49 AM

The term "timeless style" probably did originate in the 80's as so much of all areas of design clothing, architectue, interiors, etc. was influenced by classic design concepts. However in most instances the 80's placed a very distinct stamp on each interpretation causing most of those renditions to look anything but timeless. When viewed today those items tend to scream 1980's.

Todays aesthetic does seem considerably more timeless as once again all aspects of design, not just clothing, tends to be more "anything goes." Yes there are certain trends, but I can't remember a time in my life that design was more diverse.

I agree with DZ, a lighter weight fabric and slight variation in lapel and virtually no one would suspect the suit was vintage.

By next fall, if the heavier weight fabrics make the predicted comeback the suit as shown may be perfect.

 

I think that the core of "timeless" suit is the proportion.

Exist a sort of "golden ratio" that makes a suit "timeless" (perhaps unintentionally timeless),and this is about the relation between the customer's body and the proportions of lapels,shoulders,widht and length of the coat,widht of trousers.

My point is that you can take the 1924 Patou's suit and walk in the street in every decade of XX century and in early two of XXI and not be see as a man in a period costume.

 

You today could not wear these (if not a masked ball on 70s):

 

 article_0_1_B298_DB2000005_DC_96_964x859

 

This is well cut and good taste suit,but scream 60s!

 

 30a.jpg

 

These are two ageless 60s suits

 

image.jpg

 

 60a.jpg

 

This is a 80s costume:

 

 tumblr_mmu6153n_WK1sq16i5o1_1280.jpg

 

This is a suit cut in 80s:

 

rubbeige.jpg

 

Is not about a specific age; 30s fashion  is not "timeless" as said Alan Flusser,is about cut and proportions, and taste.

These are two pictures of late 30s,two men in double breasted.

The first: you can wear it from 1938 to the last "Pitti Uomo",the second (that is on a young John Profumo) is a very dated suit.

 

 PDVD_005.jpg

 

mw169395.jpg


Edited by carpu65, 23 March 2015 - 03:34 AM.

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#12 carpu65

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Posted 23 March 2015 - 03:26 AM

 

It appears to be Jean Patou himself.   I wonder if he used any couture-derived techniques on his men's suits.The Wikipedia article says he used women's dress fabrics for men's ties.

The Patou suits were from Robert Cumberland or Samuelson & Son,two  british tailors with branch in  Paris.

A very modern and ageless cut (if you take out the accessories as spats,hats,and other).

 

jean_patou_portrait_usa_1925_02.jpg

 

 image.jpg

 

 Jean_Patou.jpg


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#13 greger

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Posted 23 March 2015 - 06:22 AM

http://s7.postimg.or...1jvro1_1280.png

This reads 1920s to me. Dated. Many details are fine today, but some details speak 20s.

My grandfathers suits from the teens or 20s where, if you want to use the word timeless, timeless. I wouldn't fit into the pictured suit without feeling odd. Maybe European clothing is different enough that it is fine for them. When the frock coats departed the business world the tailors in the 20s were still trying to figure out the best way to make lounges and reefer.
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#14 Henry Hall

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Posted 23 March 2015 - 07:14 AM

 

This is well cut and good taste suit,but scream 60s!

 

 

 

image.jpg

 

 

Lounging on pile of cloth bolts with an empty brandy glass in your hand...like we all do from time-to-time.


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#15 tailleuse

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Posted 24 March 2015 - 05:44 AM

http://s7.postimg.or...1jvro1_1280.png

This reads 1920s to me. Dated. Many details are fine today, but some details speak 20s.

 

 

 This is well cut and good taste suit,but scream 60s

 

 

Specifically, which details shout 1920s or 1960s? The waist suppression (1920s suit)?  The vest, relatively small collar with a wider lapel (1960s suit)?


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#16 tailleuse

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Posted 24 March 2015 - 05:46 AM

The Patou suits were from Robert Cumberland or Samuelson & Son,two  british tailors with branch in  Paris.

A very modern and ageless cut (if you take out the accessories as spats,hats,and other).

 

jean_patou_portrait_usa_1925_02.jpg

 

 image.jpg

 

 Jean_Patou.jpg

 

Patou licensed his design to tailors who made it up using traditional tailoring techniques?


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#17 carpu65

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Posted 25 March 2015 - 05:02 AM

No,i think that was only a customer with good taste.

This is the work of Robert Cumberland and Samuelson & Son.


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