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Raw Craft featuring Frank Shattuck

Frank Shattuck Anthony Bordain Jeffery Diduch bespoke tailoring Raphael Raffaelli tailoring apprenticeship

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#37 sewbot

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Posted 12 May 2015 - 08:05 AM

 

If I had enough room and dispensable cash, I'd buy an industrial overlock to replace my plastic singer.

I hate how I have to literally feed the fabric with one hand while my other hand keeps the machine from vibrating of the table.

 Try something like this to stop your overlock from sliding around.

http://www.lampsplus...vkPWhoCcRLw_wcB

I use this stuff to keep my portable overlock in place. Just cut it to size and set your machine on top of it.


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#38 lepus

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Posted 12 May 2015 - 11:19 AM

Unless it has a servo, the motors aren't exactly very quiet :-/

 

This one here looks ok but it has a clutch motor

 

If I had enough room and dispensable cash, I'd buy an industrial overlock to replace my plastic singer.

I hate how I have to literally feed the fabric with one hand while my other hand keeps the machine from vibrating of the table.

That machine seems to have a needle positioner and possibly a thread cutter (two upper tension regulators, but can't see a thread wiper). These Juki DDL 555-4 machines seem to be popular as well with upholstery sewers and such, so one might want to change feed dog and needle plate for finer work, but that's a doddle.
 


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#39 Alievens

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Posted 12 May 2015 - 04:11 PM

 Try something like this to stop your overlock from sliding around.

http://www.lampsplus...vkPWhoCcRLw_wcB

I use this stuff to keep my portable overlock in place. Just cut it to size and set your machine on top of it.

 

Interesting, though my machine has suction cups on the bottom, so not sure if that would work...

 

That machine seems to have a needle positioner and possibly a thread cutter (two upper tension regulators, but can't see a thread wiper). These Juki DDL 555-4 machines seem to be popular as well with upholstery sewers and such, so one might want to change feed dog and needle plate for finer work, but that's a doddle.
 

 

 

The 555-4 has a thread cutter but the wiper was optional back then.

The manual has several options for feed dogs, mine came with a fine one, though I changed it for a fresh one anyway.


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#40 Schneidergott

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Posted 13 May 2015 - 06:15 PM

If you don't mind the noise of the motor, that Juki is a good machine. Looks like you can switch off the thread cutter (which comes in handy for delicate work).

My old Pfaff has a thread cutter and that second thread tension. Works like a charm without a wiper. It's a moving part that doesn't bother an operator in a factory (but appears to be considered dangerous nowadays), but since a bespoke tailor does more complex jobs it's mostly in the way.


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"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#41 hutch48

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Posted 13 May 2015 - 07:16 PM

I did not miss the bottle of "The Balvenie" having slowly demolished on of the same 12 year old bottles over some years. Liked his big Wiss shears, typical of a real pro and his work was excellent.



#42 Schneidergott

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Posted 13 May 2015 - 08:57 PM

Well, the whole series are sponsored by Balvenie, and the 12 year old whiskey is one of their cheaper versions (roughly 35.- GBP in the UK).

Shattuck also uses an old French pair of shears, though I found them a bit too big for trimming away lining at a dart. But whatever works.


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"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#43 hutch48

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Posted 14 May 2015 - 12:14 AM

The bottle I had that I bought about 15 years ago was numbered from one keg and at the time cost me about $100.00 AU dollars which was on the high end of pure malts at the time. A truly excellent drop though, 100 proof (50% alcohol by volume), very smooth ad nicely finished. I use a re-engineered pair of Wiss 20w (10 inch) trimmers and if I need to do something with very limited access I often use a thread snipper.



#44 SPOOKIETOO

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Posted 14 May 2015 - 01:39 AM

You guys, seriously!

 

Its bad enough that people with stitchery needs are such enablers when it comes to new toys....Now I'll no longer be satisfied with a bottle of Pinch or even Glenlivet until I've had the opportunity to try Balvenie! :Cry:



#45 Henry Hall

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Posted 14 May 2015 - 01:59 AM

Once in early 90s I stayed at a vegetarian/vegan guest house in Scotland (in Ullapool). In a little pub there was a jug of whiskey on the bar and I saw people taking shots so I went to take one. This bearded old man grabbed my wrist and said - 'Have you paid yer dues laddie?' Or words to that effect. It seems they'd been putting money in a pot beforehand. He poured me a glass while looking me in the eye. Made me feel like a little boy.


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Each phenomenon which is taken up should be treated with as much thoroughness as possible at that standpoint... One thing at a time and that done well!

 

- Otto Jespersen (How to Teach a Foreign Language).


#46 hutch48

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Posted 15 May 2015 - 12:15 PM

Spookie,

 

You will not regret the investment in a bottle of The Balvenie. Its a classic lowland Speyside malt, light in colour, dry and nicely rounded and at 100 proof (50% by volume) you don't want to drink too much of it. Sad to say these days I have to settle for a bottle of Glenfiddich on my computer table. last I heard Glenfiddich own the Balvenie distillery. To lead you further astray, I discovered another very good pure malt made by McCallan at 12 years old that is into the class end of malts.

 

You tend to go for Highland and Island malts if you like the stronger taste of peat that is common in their water supplies.



#47 SPOOKIETOO

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Posted 15 May 2015 - 01:43 PM

Hutch - you have really piqued my interest in The Balvenie. These days I have little opportunity to splurge on Scotch whiskey, but I'm well overdue a splurge and now I know my next investment. Of course I could suggest the purchase to my BIL for an opportunity to sample before hoarding a bottle of my own. He makes several trips to Europe yearly and makes a point of bringing back Scotch that isn't available in the states. He and I are the only Scotch drinkers in the family. So far, I've not fallen in lust with anything - though I've developed a bit of a taste for the one with the essense of iodine! Never thought that would happen - and can never remember the name. Quite an odd drink - yet interesting.

Fortunately for my pocketbook, I've always preferred virtually the cheapest of American beers. Cheap beer, pricey Scotch and wine - it just has to be good!

So - off to a bottle of the High Life before bed. If nothing else, The Balvenie will be my Merry Christmas to me this year!





Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: Frank Shattuck, Anthony Bordain, Jeffery Diduch, bespoke tailoring, Raphael Raffaelli, tailoring apprenticeship

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