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Kinetic Garment Construction - Remarks on The Foundations of Pattern Cutting


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#1 Rickard

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Posted 05 May 2015 - 06:50 PM

I would like to share my recent PhD thesis and open up for a discussion around it.

 

Best regards

Rickard Lindqvist

 

Abstract

Fashion designers are presented with a range of different methods for pattern cutting, and the interest in this field has grown rapidly over the past few years. This growth is both due to the publication of a number of works dealing with the subject in different ways and the fact that a growing number of designers emphasise cutting in their creative practices. 

Though a range of methods and concepts for pattern cutting are presented, the main body of these methods, both traditional and contemporary, is predominately based on a theoretical approximation of the body that is derived from horizontal and vertical measurements of the body in an upright position: the tailoring matrix. As a consequence, there is a lack of interactive and dynamic qualities in methods connected to this paradigm of garment construction, from both expressional and functional perspectives.

This work proposes and explores an alternative paradigm for pattern cutting that includes a new theoretical approximation of the body as well as a more kinetic method for garment construction that, unlike the prevalent theory and its related methods, takes as its point of origin the interaction between the anisotropic fabric and the biomechanical structure of the body. As such, the research conducted here is basic research, aiming to identify fundamental principles for garment construction.

Based on some key principles found in the works of Geneviève Sevin-Doering and in pre-tailoring methods for constructing garments, the proposed theory for – and method of – garment construction was developed through concrete experiments by cutting and draping fabrics on live models.

Instead of a static matrix of a non-moving body, the result is a kinetic construction theory of the body that is comprised of balance directions and key biomechanical points, along with an alternative draping method for dressmaking. This methodology challenges the fundamental relationship between dress, garment construction, and the body, working from the body outward, as opposed to the methods that are based on the prevalent paradigm of the tailoring matrix, which work from the outside toward the body. This alternative theory for understanding the body and the proposed method of working allows for diverse expressions and enhanced functional possibilities in dress.

 

Thesis is availble as a PDF from:

https://www.academia...Pattern_Cutting


Edited by Rickard, 05 May 2015 - 06:53 PM.

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#2 MANSIE WAUCH

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Posted 05 May 2015 - 09:55 PM

Seems very interesting, have downloaded to read at a later date.


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#3 dpcoffin

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Posted 06 May 2015 - 01:06 PM

Thank you, fascinating!


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#4 hutch48

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Posted 06 May 2015 - 02:31 PM

Compliments, this looks like very good quality research.


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#5 Tony Rutherford

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Posted 06 May 2015 - 03:34 PM

looks really interesting, thanks so mush for sharing. I'll read it properly when I can give it more time.


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#6 Rickard

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Posted 27 April 2016 - 03:13 PM

An updated version of the thesis with more images, links and full scale patterns are now available from http://atacac.com/book/


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#7 greger

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Posted 28 April 2016 - 04:12 AM

Interesting. I like the update. The digital world can do so much more than the paper world.

Tailors take some cloths to another higher standard by shrinking and stretching. This is stepping beyond flat patterns.
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