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Suggested Ease Measurements for Men's Button-Front Shirts?

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#1 catherinetailor

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Posted 11 May 2015 - 11:57 PM

Hey All,

I have a question.  I'm looking for standard ease measurement ranges for key points of measure on men's button-front shirts across three fits: super slim, slim and classic.  The points of measure I'm looking for are: shoulder, arm length, collar, chest, waist, seat, bicep.  I'm interested in the acceptable ranges for each point of measure and for each of the three cuts.  I don't think there's an absolute industry standard, which is why I'm looking for a range that takes into account both comfort and the integrity of the different types of cuts.  This seems really hard to find!  Can someone help??

 

Thank you!!!

 

Catherine  


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#2 jeffrey2117

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Posted 12 May 2015 - 12:18 AM

Hello,

 

One MTM company state that they add the following to their shirts across chest, wait and hips, with adjustments for neck, shoulders, biceps, etc.. 

 

Slim fit,  12 cm

Normal fit,  16 cm

Loose fit, 20cm

 

I hope this helps you.

 

Kind regards

 

Jeffrey2117


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#3 napoli

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Posted 12 May 2015 - 12:40 AM

Hi,

 

I work/practise on a Neapolitan famous shirt house and we do the extreme slim with 9 ease. then 12 the normal and the big depends on the client.

 

Best of luck


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#4 posaune

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Posted 12 May 2015 - 01:55 AM

I think, you won't get it.
There is no standard ease in clothing. It depends on style and customer group for which the shirt will be produced by a firm.
if the customer group are men, young, and sportive, you will use other measurements
as when the customer group are 30er who work in white collars jobs.
lg
posaune

#5 Schneidergott

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Posted 12 May 2015 - 05:19 AM

I moved this thread. I suspect the OP is not a customer?

 

Jeffery and posaune are both right. Jeffery's measurements is what most MTM shirt companies will use as a guide.

RTW companies will, as posaune said, choose the ease according to their customer target group. And the customer will (in a perfect world) choose what fits him best and /or looks best on him.

I think you should try 9 cm for super-slim, 12 cm for slim and 16 cm for regular But you may find that you have to make changes to other areas of the shirt (neck, shoulders and sleeves) to make it look and fit well. A lot depends on the fabrics as well. Are you going to use slightly stretchy materials for the super- slim version?


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#6 shirtmaven

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Posted 17 May 2015 - 12:01 AM

industry standards have changed over the 30+ years I have been in business.

 

1980  a shirt medium shirt  was based on a 40 chest  with 4" ease for fitted,  +6" for standard  and +8 for full cut. I think a basic brooks

bros BD shirt was+9.

collar was 15.5+ 1/2" for shrinkage   tail length was 30-31n n yoke 18.5"

 

 

in 1991  40  could have been +10  yoke was 21"   this was the time over over sized shoulders on evrything

armholes were very deep.

 

in 2015  a medium is 38+ 4  this is for a standard trim fit shirt.  yoke is 18-18.25

tails are shorter also.

grade rules have changed as well for fashion brands.   sometimes 2" btw sizes.   someone who is a large may not even fit the XL of a fashion brand.


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#7 greger

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Posted 17 May 2015 - 04:40 AM

Thanks for the update Shirtmaven!
Never cared for the extra wide yokes. To goofy looking.
But, don't want seams piling up.
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