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Gieves & Hawkes Bespoke Car Driver's Jacket Commissioned By Bentley Motors,

Gieves & Hawkes David Taube Car Drivers Jacket Updated Bespoke

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#19 Henry Hall

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Posted 07 June 2015 - 07:37 AM

 

OK, Henry; when you order yours, have 'em your way, and I'll just keep mum about your funny-looking shoulders when I compliment you on your new jacket. When I order MINE, I'm going for this, and I'll just ignore it when you tell me my shoulders should be more ropey:)

 

Apparently Taube's versatile enough to go either way.

 

Fair do's, that's a very nice jacket, although I think you're deliberately finding excellent examples in order to make me look bad (like I needed help on that score :Big Grin: ). 


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#20 SPOOKIETOO

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Posted 07 June 2015 - 07:39 AM

Have times changed so much that people that own Bentley's drive themselves? I thought they all had drivers.
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#21 tailleuse

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Posted 07 June 2015 - 08:49 AM

 

OK, Henry; when you order yours, have 'em your way, and I'll just keep mum about your funny-looking shoulders when I compliment you on your new jacket. When I order MINE, I'm going for this, and I'll just ignore it when you tell me my shoulders should be more ropey:)

 

Apparently Taube's versatile enough to go either way.

 

The other day, I and some other people were admiring the summer jackets in Beau Brummel, a high-end RTW menswear boutique.  I think the jackets were $600, on sale. They were really nicely made, unlined linen jackets with shoulder pads so tiny that at first we thought they had been omitted.  The current style there, and maybe elsewhere, is for a very light, unstructured look.

 

The seams, to my surprise, but what do I know, did not have a Hong Kong or a bias bound finish (as in the second jacket in David's example), instead, a tailor's seam finish was used, the kind where 1/8" of the seam allowance on either side is folded under and top stitched. I learned it a long time ago when I had to make a seam sampler, but had never seen it on a jacket. It worked well. Instead of pick stitching, a machine that produced a small running (saddle?) stitch had been used along the fronts and on the top collar.  The undercollar edges had been folded and sewn down by hand with a cross stitch aka catch stitch.


Edited by tailleuse, 07 June 2015 - 08:50 AM.

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#22 dpcoffin

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Posted 07 June 2015 - 09:05 AM

Have times changed so much that people that own Bentley's drive themselves? I thought they all had drivers.

Bet this is all in aid of Bentley's much ballyhoo'ed first venture into the SUV market: "The Bentley Bentayga will open up a realm of luxury and performance previously unattainable within a conventional SUV."

 

Starts at US$200,000. No doubt some will hand these over to a chauffeur, but that seems sort of like going ski-ing and hiring a skier when you get there!


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#23 dpcoffin

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Posted 07 June 2015 - 09:10 AM

 

The other day, I and some other people were admiring the summer jackets in Beau Brummel, a high-end RTW menswear boutique.  

 

Oh, sometimes envy those with access to great snoop shopping! But then I take a walk in the woods by our little river and I'm OK again:)

 

Seems like a situation where a cell-phone camera would be useful... Thanks for the description, though!


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#24 Henry Hall

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Posted 07 June 2015 - 12:34 PM

 

The other day, I and some other people were admiring the summer jackets in Beau Brummel, a high-end RTW menswear boutique.  I think the jackets were $600, on sale. They were really nicely made, unlined linen jackets with shoulder pads so tiny that at first we thought they had been omitted.  The current style there, and maybe elsewhere, is for a very light, unstructured look.

 

The seams, to my surprise, but what do I know, did not have a Hong Kong or a bias bound finish (as in the second jacket in David's example), instead, a tailor's seam finish was used, the kind where 1/8" of the seam allowance on either side is folded under and top stitched. I learned it a long time ago when I had to make a seam sampler, but had never seen it on a jacket. It worked well. Instead of pick stitching, a machine that produced a small running (saddle?) stitch had been used along the fronts and on the top collar.  The undercollar edges had been folded and sewn down by hand with a cross stitch aka catch stitch.

 

The seam described is called a 'booked' seam. 

 

I think the rounded, shirt-like shoulders is more  of an American thing currently, The people on Styleforum made a small religion out of so-called "natural shoulders". The 'trad' and Ivy look people like it too. I suspect retailers like the Dutch retailer Suit Supply (which has a presence in many countries now) has adopted this as a standard which will please the large American market, and inflict it on everyone else :).


Edited by Henry Hall, 07 June 2015 - 12:34 PM.

Each phenomenon which is taken up should be treated with as much thoroughness as possible at that standpoint... One thing at a time and that done well!

 

- Otto Jespersen (How to Teach a Foreign Language).


#25 tailleuse

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Posted 08 June 2015 - 01:59 AM

 

Oh, sometimes envy those with access to great snoop shopping! But then I take a walk in the woods by our little river and I'm OK again:)

 

Seems like a situation where a cell-phone camera would be useful... Thanks for the description, though!

 

I'd love to take photos, but I don't like to be too blatant. (Some people have no such qualms.) Sometimes I enjoy the fantasy that they'll mistake me for being a corporate spy (Except a real one would just buy the garment and rub off a pattern, which I hear happens all the time.).

 

I feel bad enough that I'm looking with no intention of buying.  I couldn't have taken it into a dressing room as it obviously wouldn't have fit me. The manager answered all our questions, though. I was accompanied by two menswear design students* and he heard us discussing the details. The sales people, I find, are often very appreciative of people who actually understand the construction details and are often happy to talk if the store isn't busy.  The manager said his branch was closing at the end of the summer, so despite their very nice clothes I assume business isn't great, or maybe the landlord hiked the rent to a ridiculous amount, which is a common practice in New York City right now.

 

 

*Sometimes they get assignments to "spec" garments: They go to a variety of stores and study what's popular in terms of colors and silhouettes and construction. They measure the clothes to determine the current popular lapel width, etc.  That I assume they do in a dressing room. At other times, they'll look at what's being offered at various price points.


Edited by tailleuse, 08 June 2015 - 02:09 AM.

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#26 dpcoffin

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Posted 08 June 2015 - 03:44 AM

Believe me, I had ALL those thoughts in my head as I wrote that about the camera, and should have said so, realizing it's very much"snooping" and not shopping!  No doubt all the sales-folk can spot the snoopers from a mile off, esp. in NY, so I guess like everything else, the best snooping situations evolve from good relationships: thoughtfulness, honesty, and friendliness work wonders:) Too bad about the store closing...


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#27 tnperusse

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Posted 09 June 2015 - 05:23 AM

Checking David Taube's photo blog every once in a while is mysartorial equivalent of my daughter and her friends
following dashing - and sometimes very funny, ala Ryan Reynolds - actors on Twitter. Never get near them but no harm
in goggling and sighing. I think the zips on the car coat
are simply to please the slightly more butch aesthetic he
has given it. I have wondered if the dazzle of the art of
the perfect technique can accomodate the mere mortals who
have to pick up a cat, or a kid, while wearing these bits
of heaven.

I was intrigued by a beautifully crafted abayah (skirt and jacket) done for a woman dressing modestly; it is in his
blog under modern tailoring for women. Much of the work
was dazzling, but I still saw bits of bubbles at the darts
and an inability to get really smooth lines for a woman with larger breasts and generally more zaftig. I will never come close to his skill, but it is encouraging to see we
share a struggle! Hence the bony babes of couture.
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Terry Nordoff-Perusse :hi: 


#28 Faya

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Posted 28 June 2015 - 06:44 PM

I look at David Taub's blog every now and then. He is such a creative tailor. The video he has posted is a little part of this one:

 


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#29 Henry Hall

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Posted 28 June 2015 - 10:37 PM

Why does so much music now have to sound like the soundtrack from Le fabuleux destin d'Amélie Poulin?

 

Taube's coat is fantastic, though I also liked the grey one with the rear box pleat. The Dege & Skinner coat looks like Chairman Mao's suit!


Each phenomenon which is taken up should be treated with as much thoroughness as possible at that standpoint... One thing at a time and that done well!

 

- Otto Jespersen (How to Teach a Foreign Language).






Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: Gieves & Hawkes, David Taube, Car Drivers Jacket, Updated Bespoke

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