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Can I reduce here at ellbow in sleeve


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#1 posaune

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Posted 12 November 2015 - 01:31 AM

I am doing a caban for a bigger size. Now the sleeve: I have draftet a 2 piece with a hem circ about 35 cm.
The armhole circ is 62.5cm. I had to reduce the cap circ from 70 to 67.5 cm (two black lines).
But now the the sleeve looks so unproportional,the upper sleeeve is so chunky like a ham.
Can I cut here(see pic dotted line 0.5 to 1 cm) or must I cut at the opposite seam too?
lg
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#2 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 12 November 2015 - 11:50 AM

First you need to figure out what the sleeve cup height is. Once you have that you can draft it with the correct width.


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#3 posaune

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Posted 12 November 2015 - 06:37 PM

the armhole height is about 24 cm the cap height is 20 (83%). So all okay here. I fear a higher cap will not work (as it will give me a smaller sleeve),
because the armhole is cut deeper and a bit wider.
I widened the hem circ about 1.5 cm and I shaved a little at the ellbow curve.
Just have to set it in to see if I must remove the same amount at the inseam ellbow.
lg
posaune

#4 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 14 November 2015 - 12:56 PM

Can you measure the Armlochumfang for me?


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#5 posaune

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Posted 14 November 2015 - 07:53 PM

yep Zuschneider, 62.7 cm circ front is 28.5 back 34.2, height 24.2 and Ad 22 (seam allowance not included).
I think the misproportioned look is because this sleeve draft is good to get a wide bizeps.
Good when you have a skinny armhole - not good when you have a big one.
lg
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#6 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 15 November 2015 - 09:14 AM

Kugeltiefe should be good with 20.25cm height. The rest must go into the width of the cap. 6% Anhalteweite is almost maximum without seams drafted. Draft the sleeve cap so wide until you have 5 - 6%.


Edited by Der Zuschneider, 15 November 2015 - 09:16 AM.

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