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Jacket hand made in Finland


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#1 Sami71

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Posted 12 December 2015 - 05:19 AM

Hi,
Here is some pictures for jacket I have made. The buttons and button Holes are not yet done. Also the final press is not yet done. Fabric is Loro Piana wool 95%/cashmere 5% flanel. This Will be the suit. I try To send some fit pics later on. More pics my works on my site www.vaatturieklund.com

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#2 greger

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Posted 12 December 2015 - 08:34 AM

Looks really nice.

#3 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 12 December 2015 - 09:33 AM

Very nice. Maybe the collar in the back a bit smaller, like 3.5cm.


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#4 Sami71

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Posted 13 December 2015 - 04:47 AM

Yes the collar hight is in my under collar pattern 3,8cm I think the top collar is now around 4cm now that you noticed I can see also myself that it is bit too high. I will change it thanks for a tip.
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#5 greger

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Posted 13 December 2015 - 08:02 AM

Collar height is another one of those things that comes and goes. Plus, neck length adjust the height, too. Meaning, I wouldn't change it unless it affects the customer in the wrong way. If a customer notices it on your coat, then it becomes a lesson about change, history, popular- that comes and goes, and so on. All change came because somebody did something different and, enough people liked it to follow. So, there are at least three kinds of people. Followers (most people), those out in front (a few people), and those who live in there own world (which is me) sometimes following trends, but doing some stuff very different and has nothing to do with today's society (almost nobody).

For followers only recommend established trends. While you may be busy talking about what might become trends, never push them. Doesn't mean don't make them, only don't push them so you don't get a bad name among followers asking for advice from someone who is supposed to be an expert (pretty much how grandfather explained it). The other two groups make whatever they want. Tailoring business is unique. What other businesses can be so versatile?
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#6 Sami71

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Posted 15 December 2015 - 05:36 AM

This jacket is made for myself. I tried it today and collar does not look too high while wearing it. I have quite narow and long neck so it looked ok and i will keep it as it is.

I try to be very open different kind of ideas. I have opend many jackets and try to find new way to do things. I like a lot Italian tailoring style and I have opens Brioni, Kiton, Isaia, Pal Ziler, Tombolin and some other brands jackets. It is interesting to see how diferently they make.

In Finland we have these days only few tailors. I think the biggest issue is that tailors have too strong oppinion how things have to do, most of them think they only know the right way. And all other ways are wrong. Does anyone agrees whith me?

#7 Terri

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Posted 15 December 2015 - 06:53 AM

I think the biggest issue is that tailors have too strong oppinion how things have to do, most of them think they only know the right way. And all other ways are wrong. Does anyone agrees whith me?


That describes quite a few people in the business I am sure!

#8 posaune

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Posted 15 December 2015 - 07:01 AM

I think, we all do!
lg
posaune
It is for me always a big surprise how different the ways can be to the same goal - be it pattern drafting or be it the work.

#9 greger

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Posted 15 December 2015 - 11:53 AM

Opinionated could be rebelling against today's clothing. In American you can see that practically every decade the clothes changed. Really, the 50s than the sixties, beginning and end. The beginning of the sixties had narrow lapels, but the end of the sixties they were much wider; and the seventies some of them went past the shoulder seams in width. Shirts were all white if tie worn. 68-69 was the big fight for blue shirts to be equal to white shirts. And, you had to wear suit and tie for certain things, other clothes had other purposes. So you can see the fight for "what clothes where" never ends. Today sports coats and blazers are being worn like suits, which wouldn't work at all fifty years ago. You would be kicked out of places fifty years ago that in today's world is just fine and expected. This battle never ends. Nobody knows what the "correct" clothes will be in ten years, much more twenty. All this change is good for tailors- it keeps them busy. And when something awful shows up it doesn't stay. There are a few principles, which some, would be foundational. Who looks at the foundation. We look at what is built upon it. There are other groups of words that are important, like the one elegance belongs in, to name one. If you delve into the theory of the needs, the customer has for the clothing (this would be work and people groups), you will be making clothes of substance instead of surface appeal. There are a lot of tailors who don't understand this stuff, and it shows in there clothes. You start somewhere and accumulate knowledge and wisdom. Why a customer wants or needs certain clothes and your finding out they represent something. So there really is a deeper purpose. That's how to make authentic clothes. Saw a guy from Nigeria and was asking him about his tattoos. They were tribal tattoos. I knew they were tribal tattoos. Clothes are like tattoos, they tell which "club" you belong to.
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