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Napoleon uniform sleeve

sleeve reconstitution uniform

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#1 LuKas02

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Posted 14 January 2016 - 01:36 PM

Hello everybody,

 

I am still very young in the trade and despite assiduously reading this forum when not pushing the needle, I know I lack a lot of knowledge (and guess I will still lack in fourty years but eh, everlastingly learning is one of the loys of being a craftsperson :Hypnotized: ).

 

A friend of mine, who is into napoleonic reconstitutions, asked if I could do a jacket for his uniform. As I have never done one before, I thought it would be good experience doing it and fun also.

 

I tried to gather information and, if I have a lot of visuals, I am very concerned with the sleeves (and that's when the fun ends).

For as much as I could understand, these sleeves have very particuliar specs, meaning :

  • very narrow
  • thus "elbowed" (can't find if this is the right term, English is not my mother tongue) for allowing movement
  • going forward
  • not falling straight but envelopping the body

If I am quite ok with the first three points but I am not getting anywhere with the last one. All the muslins I did were grandiose failures in trying to obtain this "corkscrew" effect that can be a little bit seen on this picture (and as a matter of fact, there are actually few reconstitution uniforms that respect this aspect).

05524414.jpg

 

To make things worse, my friend has quite a stooped figure and the sleeves need to turn around the waist all the more.

 

Of course, I tried to contact specialised tailors but they would not accept to give me hints (you bet!).

 

I am actually so desperate that I am considering using a dart on the back shoulder seam for pushing the shoulder forward, making the seams of the undersleeve a little bit shorter than those of the upper sleeve for forcing the sleeve to take shape and finish shaping by ironing.

But I don't feel right about using shortcuts and I would appreciate if the immense cumulated knowledge of this forum could fly to my help :super:  (licking boots here? :Big Grin:)

Thank you all,

Lucas


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#2 greger

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Posted 14 January 2016 - 04:55 PM

Vest that have sleeves for work men is sort of what you are looking for.

http://historyoffash...itary-uniforms/189x

http://historyoffash...-w-d-f-vincent/

http://www.survivorl...m/?page_id=1379

Some older books have some interesting sleeves. Haven't looked at the 194x's books for awhile.

#3 Terri

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Posted 15 January 2016 - 12:11 AM

If I understand you correctly, I recommend looking at The cut of men's clothes by Nora Waugh.
The sleeves of that period have a broad and flat sleeve head, yet a narrow and shaped arm.
When they are sewn into the armhole ( which is not a modern shape either!) they hang with the elbows turned out.

#4 posaune

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Posted 15 January 2016 - 02:59 AM

http://www.reenactor...PDF/The_Cut.pdf
or
http://www.nehelenia...nglishsite.html
look for
regency
Dragoon or Hussar Uniform RH 204
1812 Officer's Coatee PI 733
lg
posaune
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#5 LuKas02

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Posted 15 January 2016 - 03:40 AM

You all are just fantastic !

I had found the book from Norah Waugh earlier in the day and there are already so many things I want to try.

 

Thank you very much to you all, I will keep you updated with the progress I make.


It's not the quantity of years in life, it's the quantity of life in years. That's the way of the shokunin.


#6 ACECAPS

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Posted 14 April 2016 - 07:20 AM

Let me know if you achieved the sleeve.
armholes were cut much bigger with narrow backs and tiny shoulder widths- so the crown of sleeve went much farther in.

#7 ACECAPS

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Posted 14 April 2016 - 07:23 AM

You can use a modern sleeve with flattened crown height and by raising the back seam about 2 cms.





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