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Turn Back Cuffs

turn back cuffs Anderson & Sheppard

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#1 tailleuse

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Posted 17 April 2016 - 09:17 AM

Post from The Notebook, Anderson & Sheppard's apprentices' blog, on turn back cuffs.  Never having heard of this detail, I had to Google it.

 

TurnBAckCuffOnASuit.jpg

 

Here  are some other examples.

 

What do you think of turn back cuffs?


Edited by tailleuse, 18 April 2016 - 02:21 AM.

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#2 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 17 April 2016 - 10:30 AM

On shirts they also called portofino cuffs?  Also cocktail cuffs I just discovered.  My friend requested them for a shirt I recently made.

 

But for a Jacket?  The quest for something different never ceases.  They would bother me.


Edited by Schneiderfrei, 17 April 2016 - 10:31 AM.

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#3 SealKing

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Posted 17 April 2016 - 11:23 AM

I don't like them on this particular jacket but on leisure jackets, overcoats or black tie they can look stunning whit the right proportion.

One drawback is that it is impossible to have sleeve length adjusted on these...


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#4 Schneidergott

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Posted 17 April 2016 - 04:38 PM

I knew them as "gauntlet cuffs". And it's quite an old feature.


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#5 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 17 April 2016 - 04:42 PM

Of course :), I first wrote the "The quest for something new" but quickly realized that there is nothing really new.


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#6 tailleuse

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Posted 18 April 2016 - 02:26 AM

On shirts they also called portofino cuffs?  Also cocktail cuffs I just discovered.  My friend requested them for a shirt I recently made.

 

But for a Jacket?  The quest for something different never ceases.  They would bother me.

 

Apparently, the detail has appeared in modern menswear as early as the 1960s. I've seen much larger gauntlet cuffs on late 17th/early 18th Century men's garments.

 

[Just saw Schneidergott's comment.]


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#7 greger

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Posted 18 April 2016 - 03:51 AM

Don't think they are big enough to be gauntlets.

#8 jeffrey2117

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Posted 18 April 2016 - 08:55 AM

I don't like them on this particular jacket but on leisure jackets, overcoats or black tie they can look stunning whit the right proportion.

One drawback is that it is impossible to have sleeve length adjusted on these...

Hello Sealking,

 

    Not impossible, just limited by the amount the sleeves can be shortened by adjusting from the shoulder.  

 

The sleeve can usually be shortened up to 1.5 inches without too much problem.  As the amount to shorten increases past 1.5 inches, you will encounter more issues around the biceps area of sleeve tightening and giving a flatter appearance. 

 

1 7/8" to 2" would be the most I would recommend, this depends on the type of cloth and your own judgement. 

 

Seal King mentioned below, if your considering shortening the sleeves from the shoulder for jacket with checked cloths, be aware that the alignment of the stripes would be offset and out of alignment.

 

I found it helpful to trim the sleeve lining only half the distance the sleeve is to be shortened.  For example, shorten from shoulder 1.5 inches, cut the sleeve lining .75 inches. 

 

I have not found this in any books that I have read, I just found this a bit easier while doing these alterations.

 

You can see how to properly do this sleeve alteration by looking in David Carlin's book.  There used to be a link found in the forum, not sure if it is still available.

 

Do not attempt this alteration by cutting the sleeve the same measured amount across the top!

 

 

Regards

 

Jeffrey2117


Edited by jeffrey2117, 18 April 2016 - 09:54 PM.

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#9 Matt S

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Posted 18 April 2016 - 10:33 AM

I don't like them on this particular jacket but on leisure jackets, overcoats or black tie they can look stunning whit the right proportion.

One drawback is that it is impossible to have sleeve length adjusted on these...

 

Why can't the sleeves be adjusted from the end? I can see why not if there's a pattern. But if there's no pattern, can't the cuff just be removed, the sleeve adjusted and the cuff reattached?



#10 sewbot

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Posted 18 April 2016 - 10:48 AM

 

Why can't the sleeves be adjusted from the end? I can see why not if there's a pattern. But if there's no pattern, can't the cuff just be removed, the sleeve adjusted and the cuff reattached?

 

 

I think the sleeve vent buttonholes would hinder shortening from the bottom of the sleeve.


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#11 jeffrey2117

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Posted 18 April 2016 - 10:53 AM

 

Why can't the sleeves be adjusted from the end? I can see why not if there's a pattern. But if there's no pattern, can't the cuff just be removed, the sleeve adjusted and the cuff reattached?

Hello Matt S.,

 

     Take a look at the photo of the sleeves, there looks to be five functional buttonholes present that would prevent shortening from the cuff.

 

Jeffrey2117


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#12 SealKing

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Posted 18 April 2016 - 04:07 PM

Thanks Jeffrey, you're right, alterations from the top would always be possible, as long as the cloth is not a check.


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#13 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 18 April 2016 - 07:41 PM

Hi Matt S it appears that the cuffs are 'grown on' rather than 'sewn on'. The buttonholes preclude any lengthening from the wrist end.


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#14 jeffrey2117

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Posted 18 April 2016 - 09:50 PM

Thanks Jeffrey, you're right, alterations from the top would always be possible, as long as the cloth is not a check.

Hello Seal King,

 

    I forgot to mention checked cloths would then be thrown out of alignment! 

 

I will add that to my comment in case anyone misses this comment! 

 

Jeffrey2117


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