First, from Mike Maldonado's class I learned not to add the muslin sleeves until after the body was fitted, so my suggestion would be to take those off before going further… In fact, in that vein, I'd have simply made a sleeveless muslin of the first pattern and started with cautious side-seam taking in, until the strain lines started to appear. Did you try anything like that, I wonder?
Second, I recognize from your description of what you did my own tendency to make too many changes all at once, which invariably—in the early stages at least—leads to having no idea which of the various changes is doing what, too hard to sort them out!
Third, I wonder if you'd be willing to post the body pattern shapes, both for the ain't-broke-yet before stage and the now-it's-broken after stages? I'd certainly find those easier to follow and think about than the on-the-body pix and descriptions alone; thanks!
Also, I wonder if what motivated this project was the client's wish for something tighter, and if so, if he was perhaps responding to what I see commonly these days, which is an apparent preference for shirts that have just enough (matter of taste!) straining going on to make it clear exactly how buff the wearer is, as opposed to simple smooth fit, such as you'd already achieved…?
I look forward to reading the responses, good question!
Thanks for your reply, Dpcoffin! All great advice!
I agree about not introducing too many variables at once. I thought that since the first shirt fit (and since I was basing this next, more fitted one, on the first shirt), then slimming it down would be a breeze. But, how wrong was I!
The motivation for trying a more fitted shirt was mutual. I tend to shy away from overly fitted shirts, since it just presents too many problems and headaches (as is the case now!), not to mention restricting one's mobility. My friend (client) is also younger (mid-20s) so, naturally, more inclined to want to show off his body than, say, a 40+ y/o.
With that said, though, both of us wanted to see how far it could be pushed. I'm likely going to be dealing with more athletic types in the future, so mine as well take this opportunity to see how far things can be pushed.
In terms of the patterns, it may take a while. But, let me see what I can try to post up.
I would think that these drag lines are errors of Major Lateral Balance, in King Wilsons work.
I drew a diagram to show how these might be imagined in a shirt http://www.cutterand...?showtopic=4001
The diagram is at the very end. A good fix is to add cloth at the front neck point, tapering out to the shoulder.
If you want a diagram I could put one up. There are a couple of steps, because you need to reshape the neck hole after you do that.
ps I agree with David above. And I wonder if he was especially thinking of the large number of changes shown in the Passformfehler Buch.
That book is great, I have it, but I think that what you see there is a bit of a recipe, rather than an analysis and reasoning.
Thanks, Schneiderfrei for the reply, and for the link! I think you're right! When I look at some of the other photos from the side (not posted here), I noticed that the chest and waist lines on the muslin are all angling upwards.
Just to keep my original post more focused, I didn't mention that I had also made changes to the back (increasing the back dart intake & taking out the excess from the back arm scye). I think that those changes to the back may have started to pull on the front. Or, what is more likely, the imbalance was already there and just became more evident and exaggerated by making the shirt more fitted.
Anyway, this is the route I'll try to remedy the problem. Thanks!
If you take out for showing curves you must do this with darts. You have much fabric over the bust
and you want to get ridd of it. Only side seam thightening will not work. There is no other way: darts - or you use knit.
And for a tighter fit you need tighter armholes (with tighter sleeves). They all have quite another form and the shoulderslope is bigger
so that the armhole is close to the body.
You have to use a shaped basic pattern - not a basic shirt.
Thanks, Posaune for your thoughts. I will look into adding a dart in the front (after first correcting for the imbalance that Schneiderfrei mentioned).