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History of Men's Fashions by NJS


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#91 Che Pasticcio

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Posted 22 January 2011 - 05:15 AM

Mr Simrick runs a shop not too far from where I live; do you think it would be worth a visit?


Did you ever visit Mr. Simrick? About four years ago I used to work at a denim shop five minutes away from his shop and alterations were sent to him. I was interested then in having a shirt made up and he mentioned he did not offer that. I'm pretty certain he cuts suits but I can't say whether it's full bespoke. I could visit him if anyone is interested in knowing more. I went to see him when I made up my first shirt to get some feedback. He's very nice and a gentleman.

#92 Charles R Bingley

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 05:31 AM

Re: silk toppers.

Ton Meeuwis of Silk Top Hats has told me that he does indeed have access to new silk top plush so it must mean that it is still being manufactured. He will make you one for £975 (last year, it was around £600).

I find it odd that the main hatters of the realm have not caught on to this potential big money spinner as I know many who could afford it would prefer and go for a silk topper be it vintage or brand new!
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#93 Qirrel

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 06:12 AM

Re: silk toppers.

Ton Meeuwis of Silk Top Hats has told me that he does indeed have access to new silk top plush so it must mean that it is still being manufactured. He will make you one for £975 (last year, it was around £600).

I find it odd that the main hatters of the realm have not caught on to this potential big money spinner as I know many who could afford it would prefer and go for a silk topper be it vintage or brand new!


While i wouldn't say silk hats are huge money spinners, Silk Top Hats is established in the small niche that demands real silk top hats. Meanwhile, larger manufacturers like Lock & Co. or Bates cater to a comparatively large market with their melusine/felt top hats in addition to their lines of soft hats and caps. I suspect that the heads of these companies either think that their customers are satisfied with their current top hat selection, or that they think the market for silk top hats is insignificant relative to their total profit.

The confirmation that Meeuwis indeed has got someone to make him silk plush finally beats to death the various myths concerning the impossibility of making silk plush.

#94 NJS

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 09:35 PM

I have asked Janet Taylor (now of Patey Hats) about this and will pass on her views. I have to say that, unless he is leaving a 0 off, at the prices that he is charging for excellent second hand hats, there would be a killing to be made in buying up all his stock!

Edited by NJS, 16 March 2011 - 01:00 AM.

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#95 Charles R Bingley

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Posted 16 March 2011 - 03:46 AM

While i wouldn't say silk hats are huge money spinners, Silk Top Hats is established in the small niche that demands real silk top hats. Meanwhile, larger manufacturers like Lock & Co. or Bates cater to a comparatively large market with their melusine/felt top hats in addition to their lines of soft hats and caps. I suspect that the heads of these companies either think that their customers are satisfied with their current top hat selection, or that they think the market for silk top hats is insignificant relative to their total profit.

The confirmation that Meeuwis indeed has got someone to make him silk plush finally beats to death the various myths concerning the impossibility of making silk plush.


Actually, it is probably that the customers don't know that silk plush is still being produced that they still go for the fur melusine. IMHO, nothing beats silk (you can't polish a fur one and achieve the same satin shine as you could with silk). I once had a fur melusine from HJ made in the 1970s and I after wearing it for a bit, decided it didn't look as good a silk one (it's the shape and the overall fuzziness that irritated me) and flogged it off to a friend. Plus, the amount the hatters and dealers charge for a vintage silk is huge compared to a new one from Ton. And especially for the guys with large heads would probably be willing to spend money on a new silk rather than a rare and very pricy vintage silk. I am at least blessed with a size 7 head so I could easily by a silk topper in good condition for as little as £36 (the most I've spent is £200 on a really good Truefitt one).

I have asked Janet Taylor (now of Patey Hats) about this and will pass on her views. I have to say that, unless he is leaving a 0 off, at the prices that he is charging for excellent second hand hats, there would be a killing to be made in buying up all his stock!


Indeed, his prices are very reasonable. I might actually visit him one day to just talk about toppers.

He also sent me a photo of some of the gems in his collection:

Posted Image

I think the two at the bottom are made by him.

TBH, I also heard from the guy who runs Ascot Top Hats and he seems to suggest that they are still manufactured as well.

Edited by Charles R Bingley, 16 March 2011 - 03:50 AM.

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#96 NJS

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Posted 22 March 2011 - 12:14 AM

I have written to this supplier to ask where he gets the hatter's plush from. It is strange that James Lock amd Patey Hats do not know about it.
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#97 NJS

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Posted 22 March 2011 - 12:53 AM

I now have had a very civil reply from Ton, who refuses to disclose the source of the new silk hatter's plush. So the last silk hatter's plush that was generally available has ceased, after all.
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#98 Charles R Bingley

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Posted 27 March 2011 - 04:08 AM

Well, he would hardly disclose such commercially sensitive information...
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#99 le.gentleman

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Posted 21 June 2012 - 08:02 AM

Here is one of the most comprehensive discussions on the topic I have been able to dig up anywhere:

Posted Image

It comes from Hamza Simrick's book The Art of Tailoring, 1983. Simrick studied with Jean d'Arroux in Paris and later at the Tailor and Cutter Academy in London. He worked on Savile Row for 12 years before heading a CMT company.


There are so many theories, that is it hard to keep count. IT also shows, that there cannot possibly be just one right answer. Much rather it is a matter of taste, which is also the conclusion of the Sleeve Length Guide for Shirts & Suits.

#100 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 21 June 2012 - 10:30 AM

There was the old theory of German tailors to have the sleeve showing 1.5cm. I think this is way too much, the sleeves are becoming too short.
0.75 - 1.0cm is much better for today.
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#101 LSHellström

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Posted 25 July 2012 - 06:54 PM

This is not entirely true! Hardy Amies said 1/2 of an inch in 1964!

#102 ladhrann

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Posted 30 July 2012 - 11:43 AM

Well, he would hardly disclose such commercially sensitive information...


It is a pity when businesses refuse to spread information about suppliers, more information about supplies means there being more likelihood that the suppliers stay in business. In my view the more information out there can only help the trade.




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