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Help and critique Rundschau Trousers

Rundschau trousers seersucker fit draft

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#1 HautenDandy

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Posted 18 May 2016 - 08:48 AM

Hello all,

 

I have been working off a 70s rundschau trouser draft with seersucker fabric.

 

I havent hemmed the bottoms yet as I am more worried about excess material in the crotch on my right side, a good bit of dress has been taken out but still seems to have quite a bit and I tried to take a bit more out but it ended up distorting the fabric worse.

 

You cant see the excess fold very wiell but its about a 1" fold about 3 to 4" long.

 

I notice the wrinkles below the waistband at the seat seam and will lower it a bit, but  was mainly confused by the excess material at the crotch. Only thing I can think of is the front fly seam is angled a bit too much, but that is how the draft picture shows.

 

There are pleats in the front if I had to straighten the fly seam I could take those out.

 

 

Thank you,

HautenDandy

 

 

 

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#2 Henry Hall

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Posted 18 May 2016 - 10:00 AM

Your fly curve is way too angled and that's a massive amount of dress taken out. That straight fly curve will add a ton of cloth to the area. Is that really how the Rundschau draft has you draft it?


Each phenomenon which is taken up should be treated with as much thoroughness as possible at that standpoint... One thing at a time and that done well!

 

- Otto Jespersen (How to Teach a Foreign Language).


#3 HautenDandy

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Posted 18 May 2016 - 02:56 PM

Indeed.

 

I thought it a bit much but i figured Id try it, the straightening of the fly would add to much material but I could curve the side seam at the top a bit to make up for it?



#4 peterle

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Posted 18 May 2016 - 07:02 PM

some thougths regarding dress:

 

Dress was meant for wearing roomy boxers, so you had to decide wether you carry the package left or right of the crotch seam of the boxers and the trousers..

It follows, the crotch seam had to be high enough to be worn left or right of the package. The crotch seam was not meant to run lower, under the package.

 

Today most people wear boxer briefes. These have a kind of pouch, holding the package up and centered. So a one sided dress would just cause fitting issues, because there is no posibility for left and right anymore.

 

Seeing your pics I think you have a higher and wider left hip. You can veryfie it by taking balance measurements at the left and right hip, measuring the distance between the waistline of your body and the floor.


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#5 lepus

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Posted 19 May 2016 - 04:51 AM

When I look at the pattern pieces, knowing it must be a Rundschau draft, I would check my calculations. It doesn't look like the Rundschau drafts I know. From when exactly is it? When I compare it with a Rundschau draft that happens to be at hand from 1980 or so, the rise isn't so high, the centre front isn't angled that much and the front side seam isn't nearly straight with nearly all shaping on the inseam. Dress provision in that draft (that is: the curtain behind which the lunchbox is hidden) is 0.5 cm at top, 1.0 cm at seat line, 1.5 cm at crotch. Did you change the knee width? I'm sure in ten years the draft has changed, but I wouldn't think to this extent.

 


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#6 HautenDandy

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Posted 23 May 2016 - 01:55 PM

Its from december 71 page 547

 

Ill just take the front dart out and straighten the flyline by gouging the curve a bit.

 

Perhaps that might make it to tight in that area so ill have to redo the pocket and curve the top of the side seam.







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