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Terms and translations in German drafts.

translation german draftterms

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#19 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 08 August 2016 - 10:14 AM

Good.  Lets get some more terms up. :)


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#20 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 08 August 2016 - 11:20 PM

German Tailoring terms that relate to lower body garment such as Trousers.

 

Körpermaße: Body measurments

 

Bdu             Bundumfang   =     Waist circumference (girth)

Hu               Hüftumfang     =    Hip girth

Fw               Fußweite          =   Hem width   

Stl               Seitenlänge      =   Sideseam length  

Schr            Schrittlänge     =   Inseam length  

Lbh             Leibhöhe          =   Rise  Stl % Schr sideseam length minus inseam length

Knh             Kniehöhe         =    Knee Height   1/2 Schr + 1/10 Sehr 1/2 inseam + 1/10 of 1/2 inseam ( which is 6/10 of whole inseam)

 

 

Hilfsmaße:  construction measurements -  Berechnungen: Calculations

 

Vhbr  Vorderhosenbreite               =       Top side width = 1/4 Hu + 0-1 cm
Gsd  Gesamter Spaltdurchm.        =       Gap Diameter = 1/4 Hu % 3 cm (% - minus)

Vhsd  Vorderhosenspaltdurchm.  =       Topsides gap diameter = 1/10 halben Hu+ 1 cm 1/10 of 1/2 Hip girth +1
Hhsd Hinterhosenspaltdurchm.    =       Underside gap diameter = Gsd ./.Vhsd whole gap diameter minus top side gap diameter
Hhbr  Hinterhosen breite               =       Underside width = I/4Hu + 3-4

Gbr Gesamte Breite Whole width  =       Hhbr + Hhsd undersides width + underside gap diameter ½  29.9 cm

 

 

Übermaß (excess/lit. over measurement) must be determined in a corpulent draft, an amount, that was added to the v.M. (CF) and to the waistband.


Edited by Schneiderfrei, 08 August 2016 - 11:32 PM.

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#21 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 15 August 2016 - 10:13 AM

Unless otherwise stated I believe that all Rundschau drafts have a seam allowance included of 0.75 cm.  Which is 5/32 inch.
 
The 'otherwise stated' can include:
 
a notice at the top of the drafts which says “Ohne Nahtzugaben” Without seams.  Sometimes “Mit nahtzugaben” is specified to show which version has the seams included.
 
or within the draft itself “fertig Naht” - f.N. which means the seams are not included and the draft is showing the true shape of the garment.  This will be in areas like darts and the centre front or centre back, where you will have to provide your own seam allowance depending on how you want the work to go.

Edited by Schneiderfrei, 15 August 2016 - 10:14 AM.

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#22 Jeffrey

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Posted 16 August 2016 - 01:39 PM

Here is a comprehensive list right here on the forum.

 

http://www.cutterand...p?showtopic=428

 

found it by chance


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#23 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 16 August 2016 - 05:50 PM

Thanks Jeffrey,

 

Indeed, I hadn't seen that list before though there are other translations, especially by Sator.

 

It would be helpful to expand the meanings in many cases.

 

G


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#24 lepus

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Posted 18 August 2016 - 12:02 AM

Here are some more, rough and random. Abbreviations mainly Rundschau, there may be duplicates. Warning: may contain terms relating to coats.

Hu (Hüftumfang): seat circumference, measured where seat or hip is maximal
Rl (Rückenlänge): back length, from nape of neck to waist
Ht (Hüfttiefe): hip length, direct measure, from nape of neck to maximal seat or hip
Lg (Länge): length
Bt (Brusttiefe): bust length, direct measure, from nape of neck to apex of bust
Vl (Vorderlänge): front length, direct measure, from nape of neck to waist
Schb (Schulterbreite): shoulder width, measured from neck to shoulder point
Obu (Oberarmumfang): upper arm circumference, measured where it is maximal
Äe (Ärmeleinsatzzeichen): sleeve front pitch mark
h.Äe (hinteres Ärmeleinsatzzeichen): sleeve back pitch mark
Z (Zentrum): centre
v.M. (vordere Mitte): centre front
h.M. (hintere Mitte): centre back
Ah (Armlochhöhe): armhole height, sum of front and back (Rundschau: along straight lines)
Umf (Umfang, in particular Armlochumfang): armhole circumference, measured along seam line of pattern
Älg (Ärmellänge): sleeve length
Kgh (Kugelhöhe): height (or depth) of sleeve head
Äsw (Ärmelsaumweite): circumference of sleeve hem
Fdl (Fadenlauf): grain line
m (messen), ausmessen: measure something, straight or curved, used in combination with "ü"
ü (übertragen): apply measured length (with "m") somewhere else
⁒ (abzüglich): minus; looks like percentage sign but has dots instead of zeroes
Voho (Vorderhose): trouser front
Hiho (Hinterhose): trouser back
Bu (Bundumfang): waist band circumference

Grundschnitt: basic pattern, detailing this produces the definitive pattern
Schnittmuster: pattern
Schnittkonstruktion: pattern draft
Ausfallbetrag: surplus width or length, to be taken away somewhere
Einhaltezugabe: amount of material to be added for fulling on
Einhalteweite: amount of ease to be fulled on
einhalten: (to) full on, (to) shrink
Brustabnäherverkleinerung: bust dart reduction
Schrägstellung: slant, slope, incline
Abnäher: dart
verlegen: move, transpose, displace
vorverlegen: move towards the front, for instance a side seam
Schulterblattabnäherverlegung: displacement of shoulder (blade) dart
Rückenverlängerung: lengthening of back
Nahtausgleich: trueing of a seam, smoothing a run where pattern pieces meet
Schnitteil: pattern part or piece
Schulternaht: shoulder seam
Einnahtärmel: one-piece sleeve
Zweinahtärmel: two-piece sleeve
Ell(en)bogenabnäher: elbow dart
Ell(en)bogennaht: sleeve back seam (in two- and three-piece sleeve)
Oberarmnaht: top/outer sleeve seam (in raglan and 3-piece sleeve etc.)
dehnen: (to) stretch
Dehnbetrag: stretch amount
Seitennaht: side seam
rechtwink(e)lig: perpendicular
Unterärmel: undersleeve
Oberärmel: topsleeve
Schulterpolster: shoulder pad
Ärmelfisch (lit. sleeve fish): sleeve head (crown, roll) support; in Dutch/Belgian called "snor", i.e. moustache; in French "cigarette": inspired inventiveness
Armlochvertiefung: armhole deepening
Tascheneingriff: pocket opening
Übertritt: overlap
Untertritt: underlap
anliegend - halbweit - lose: close fit - easy fit - loose fit, or fitted - semi-fitted - casual
Knopfblende, Knopfleiste: button extension, strap, stand, grown-on or sewn-on
Knopflochblende, Knopflochleiste: extension or strap for buttonholes, e.g. on a shirt, coat, or pair of trousers
Besetzen, Besatz: facing
Angeschnittenes Besetzen: grown-on facing
Patte, z.B. Taschenpatte: flap, e.g. pocket flap
Paspel, z.B. Taschenpaspel: jetting, e.g. pocket jetting
Leistentasche: welt pocket
Futter: lining
Dressur: iron work to impart a shape
dressieren: (to) shape with the iron
vorlegen: assume the given distance lies in front of where drafting continues next
 


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#25 HautenDandy

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Posted 18 August 2016 - 01:15 AM

I think this thread or that thread from sator should be stickied so its easy to find.


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#26 Mammothy

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Posted 01 March 2017 - 09:27 AM

It may be beneficial to put all the lingo into a google docs spreadsheet and keep it editable by everyone so we might have a more complete ordered list in the near future. In the forum format things tend to get out of focus fast.


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#27 Futura

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Posted 04 March 2017 - 06:22 AM

It may be beneficial to put all the lingo into a google docs spreadsheet and keep it editable by everyone so we might have a more complete ordered list in the near future. In the forum format things tend to get out of focus fast.

 

I did start a compilation a few months ago for my own use, based off of the information on this forum. Perhaps I should share it?


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#28 Henry Hall

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Posted 08 March 2017 - 02:25 AM

 

I did start a compilation a few months ago for my own use, based off of the information on this forum. Perhaps I should share it?

 

I'm dismayed that you're based in England, but wrote "based off of'" instead of 'based upon'...

 

Not that it has anything to do with German tailoring terms.


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Each phenomenon which is taken up should be treated with as much thoroughness as possible at that standpoint... One thing at a time and that done well!

 

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#29 Futura

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Posted 09 March 2017 - 07:28 AM

 

I'm dismayed that you're based in England, but wrote "based off of'" instead of 'based upon'...

 

Not that it has anything to do with German tailoring terms.

 

Good catch - I'm an American living in England ;)



#30 Futura

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Posted 09 March 2017 - 07:29 AM

 

Good catch - I'm an American living in England ;)

 

Hmm, perhaps more interesting is that if I spoke it, I'd probably have said "upon"...!



#31 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 09 March 2017 - 09:19 AM

Oh, NOW I understand   :poke:   ;p


Edited by Schneiderfrei, 09 March 2017 - 09:20 AM.

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#32 Mammothy

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Posted 10 March 2017 - 02:35 AM

 

I did start a compilation a few months ago for my own use, based off of the information on this forum. Perhaps I should share it?

apart from the off of <G> You are requested to kindly share it. I was about to create a resource now, but there is no reason to reinvent the wheel. I'm looking forward to getting the terms I am familiar with in English only translated to German.


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#33 Futura

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Posted 10 March 2017 - 08:23 PM

apart from the off of <G> You are requested to kindly share it. I was about to create a resource now, but there is no reason to reinvent the wheel. I'm looking forward to getting the terms I am familiar with in English only translated to German.

 

I shall resume work then! Hopefully it will be available by next week.



#34 Mammothy

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Posted 11 March 2017 - 07:14 AM

 

I shall resume work then! Hopefully it will be available by next week.

I'm thrilled.

 

Will you make the document editable so we can add terms or maybe correct something?


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#35 Futura

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Posted 11 March 2017 - 06:16 PM

I'm thrilled.

 

Will you make the document editable so we can add terms or maybe correct something?

 

I'm adding everything into a spreadsheet, and I hope that others will be able to edit it. I'm not sure of the best way to share it. Any suggestions?

 

At the moment I've got everything typed up, just organizing it and formatting everything. :) Please if anybody has any preferences regarding organization of terms, let me know!


Edited by Futura, 11 March 2017 - 06:19 PM.


#36 amateursarto

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Posted 16 March 2017 - 03:45 AM

Futura,
Thank you for this! Google Docs would be great for this.
Regards,
Pete
AMATEURSARTO





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