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Trimmings trousers vests questions makeup canvas interlining waistband hymo wigan

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#19 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 18 October 2016 - 08:44 AM

You have mentioned the jute before Henry,  I have never seen anything like that here in Australia.  Could you post a picture?


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#20 greger

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Posted 18 October 2016 - 10:47 AM

Seen jute used for furniture and cheap rope. Wondered what value it could have for clothes.
Hair cloth in vest seems way to stiff, as does collar canvas.
Some cloth has sizeing in it. Certainly don't want to wash that out, unless, maybe using it for something else.
Wigan, spoken "wiggin", is used for coat cuffs. About 5 inches wide is a good width. See rolls of it at 2, 3 and once in awhile 4 inches.
Vest canvas is special for vest. It has been sized, so you don't want to wash it.
Holland Linen is also good for vest, and another type of linen, I don't remember the name now.
The ban-roll that Schneidergott shows is really nice. Don't really want to sew into the heavy stuff, when sewing to the pants, so that attached thinner stuff works really good. The waistband and curtain are/can be sewn to it. Ban-roll is to stiff if want a softer waistband.
Didn't know nettle and hemp were that close. Getting stung by nettles is far from getting high. (The closes I've ever got to getting high was mowing the lawn and the neighbors smoking up a marijuana storm. My headache went away.)
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#21 Henry Hall

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Posted 18 October 2016 - 06:57 PM

Here:

jute1.jpg jute2.jpg

 

This is not rough stuff. It's so smooth it has a sheen. Rope was previously made of hemp, not jute.


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#22 greger

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Posted 19 October 2016 - 04:20 AM

Looks nice, Henry.

Jute has been used for many things. Lots of twine has been made of it.

Rope has been made of many natural fibers. Hemp was probably the most popular. It depends on what it will be used for, as to its selection.

Edited by greger, 19 October 2016 - 04:21 AM.


#23 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 19 October 2016 - 06:50 AM

It looks good, does it have a trade name?


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#24 Henry Hall

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Posted 19 October 2016 - 07:33 AM

It may well have, but this stuff I get is just cloth market fodder. The woman who sells it has linen of all sorts, along with jute, hessian and the like. It is fairly-priced, so I buy it and it performs well.

 

I've come to the conclusion that apart from specialist stuff like haircloth and body canvases, a lot of the stuff officially sold as trimmings are no longer agreed upon as regards its quality or construction. 'Pocketing' for example, is different from different places. Hardly any of it is the stuff you find in vintage garments or even in commercial garments. I bought 'pocketing' from one place and it was just thin plain-weave cotton! I can get that anywhere for half the price. I can get 5 meters of thin, strong twilled cotton at a price that wouldn't buy 1.5 meters of this 'official' pocketing. It's a scam.

 

Sometimes you see things advertised with the good old names, but I'm not sure even the sellers always know what half of it is supposed to look like.


Edited by Henry Hall, 19 October 2016 - 08:24 PM.

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Each phenomenon which is taken up should be treated with as much thoroughness as possible at that standpoint... One thing at a time and that done well!

 

- Otto Jespersen (How to Teach a Foreign Language).


#25 greger

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Posted 20 October 2016 - 06:36 AM

The world ever changes.

Bought some cotton/poly trouser pocketing, because that is all they had. Cut some pieces and washed them. Pulled them out of the dryer, and which way is warp and woof? One pair of pants the pocketing woof was vertical, and those pockets wore out. For the next pair of pants I ran my thumb nail over the pocketing one way and then the other. Warp threads are bigger and stronger, so, bump bump bump. With the warp threads vertical the cotton pants wore out, and the pocketing is fine. Dragging the thumbnail over the cloth is an old tailors trick.

#26 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 20 October 2016 - 09:03 AM

I wonder if the jute is what I find online as Cotton Jute.  Which is as far as I can figure, jute that is made to be as fine as cotton, rather than a blend.

 

But, its not easy to find out.  A lot of the suppliers are, naturally, Indian companies.

 

What it certainly is not, is Hessian/Burlap.


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