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Ironwork for Trousers - Extract from ABC des Schneiderhandwerk

Ironwork Trousers FormbŁgeln ABC Schneiderhandwerk dressur Hose

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#19 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 16 November 2016 - 07:56 AM

It should look like image (Abbildung) 64.  Don't worry about the seat until the leg looks like that.


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#20 posaune

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Posted 17 November 2016 - 03:10 AM

First of all no stay stitching. If you do this the fabric can't move.

You cut the legs left side of fabric up. (And please no such big seam allowances in the crotch seam.
It is 1 cm in the rounded part and about 3 to 4 at the CB point) You can do 2 - 3 cm at the side seams.
You lay the legs (still like a sandwích) on your ironing table. You have marked or notched the knee line.
I start from here.
Hold with one hand the knee notch and move the iron in a bias way to the center to make room for the calves.
First down (calves)- then up (crotch).Stretch the crotch seam and upper inseam but shrink the inside at center
where your body cup in
First inseam - then outseam. Stretching and shrinking.
First one side then I flipp it over to the other side. Same procedure. Both legs are now equal.
After this I take each leg seperatley. I fold the leg - the right side is up (I have a teflon shoe)-
so that inseam touches outseam from bottom up to crotch point and put some more shape in the legs with the iron.
First inseam then center. After this the front leg - which I do on the folded leg - is only stretched at
inseam and outseam (layed on of the other) but shrunk at center at the base of leg - don't forget the notches
at the knee. Notch goes to notch.
This will shove you trouser hem to the front.

You must always have the form of your body in mind: Where you need some extra length and were you need less.
hope it helps
lg
posaune
It is difficult to describe it for one, which mother tongue is not english so I edited it a bit more.

Edited by posaune, 17 November 2016 - 07:19 AM.

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#21 lngn2

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Posted 17 November 2016 - 03:17 AM

Posaune - thank you - that's really helpful!

#22 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 17 November 2016 - 09:13 AM

In case it is not quite clear,

 

The German word for the 'wrong side' of the the cloth is the same as the word for left - 'links'

 

So posaune is saying to cut the cloth wrong side up.

 

I would like to ask posaune, when you say,  "the pieces are like a sandwich", do you mean 1 to place the two leg pieces on top of each other or 2 that you fold each individual piece in half?

 

LG

 

G


Edited by Schneiderfrei, 17 November 2016 - 09:27 AM.

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#23 posaune

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Posted 17 November 2016 - 06:25 PM

Thanks Schneiderfrei, sometimes words are simply gone.
I cut the trouser in double layered fabric. So the pieces are on top of each other. :-). I notch them and bring them to the table
After the first ironwork I fold each seperatley (right side up) and work them seperatly.
I was taught to do this the wrong side (Pride!! I knew the word now) up. But it is real pain in the ....
after finishing to iron in the crease again on the right side. The teflon shoe prevents any shining on the fabric.
lg
posaune
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#24 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 17 November 2016 - 06:49 PM

In the text at Abb 64 there is a discussion about folding the pieces with wrong sides together to get the creases correct, just as you say posaune.


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#25 lngn2

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Posted 06 December 2016 - 02:07 AM

I've just acquired a 5.6kg dry iron and tried shaping a piece of scrap clothe with it - amazing what a difference a properly hot and heavy iron makes. I am looking forward to trying it on a proper piece later..!



#26 Glamour Global

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Posted 21 March 2017 - 10:28 PM

I am applying these iron work techniques for the first time . I might face few difficulties in setting up the trousers but I'm optimistic we will sort out in few turns .

Do we again need to do the stretching on the crotch area on the final ironing when the trouser is complete ? I have this question on my mind ?

Thank you

Edited by Glamour Global, 21 March 2017 - 10:29 PM.






Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: Ironwork, Trousers, FormbŁgeln, ABC, Schneiderhandwerk, dressur, Hose

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