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Single Breasted with DB Lapels


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#1 Sator

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Posted 15 September 2009 - 02:54 AM

This interesting coat comes from Emms Ltd Tailors and Habit Makers of 17 Savile Row. It was published in The Tailor and Cutter March 17th, 1953:



It is a pity it isn't in colour as I would have loved to have seen what a blue and grey pinhead worsted would have looked like. The button three lounge with double breasted lapels is a fashion that was extremely popular in the 1930s. Notice too the way the front darts have been extended to the base of the coat to give it more chest. The lapels are also quite strikingly wide. The chest pocket is curved - boat shaped, "barchetta" in Italian. The side pockets, however, seem awfully low to me.



#2 greger

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Posted 15 September 2009 - 07:17 AM

Here is a picture from the late 40s.



I was told, in the early 60s, pockets are to be 9 1/2 inches from the bottom and 5 1/4 inches from the front edge. Nowadays, they are probably about 11 inches from the bottom.

#3 Sator

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Posted 15 September 2009 - 09:54 AM

I was told, in the early 60s, pockets are to be 9 1/2 inches from the bottom and 5 1/4 inches from the front edge. Nowadays, they are probably about 11 inches from the bottom.


Fair enough. I was comparing the coat by Emms with this one from 1950s one from Kilgour which I had open before me when I notice the pocket placement:

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I noticed that the pockets line up more with the lowest button, whereas on the Emms coat it is just a tad below it.

#4 Gruto

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Posted 16 September 2009 - 04:43 AM

I noticed that the pockets line up more with the lowest button, whereas on the Emms coat it is just a tad below it.


Do we have "a rule" here? A tailor told me that he would not place the lowest button lower than the pocket line.
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#5 greger

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Posted 16 September 2009 - 05:20 AM

The customer makes the rules, not us, unless we are the customer.

Some people don't want everything lined up, while others of us like to connect the dots.

#6 Gruto

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Posted 16 September 2009 - 07:32 AM

The customer makes the rules, not us, unless we are the customer.

Some people don't want everything lined up, while others of us like to connect the dots.


I know :) but do we have a tradition then concerning this detail?
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#7 greger

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Posted 16 September 2009 - 11:29 AM

I don't know. But, I think the answer is no.

#8 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 16 September 2009 - 06:08 PM

I know :) but do we have a tradition then concerning this detail


The Answer is Yes, the placement of the bottom button has been suggested at this position from at least 1880. As well as the Breast pocket should line up to the top button on a medium roll, second button on a high roll, these were not hard and fast rules but suggestions reguarding style and what works best with the eye. Personally I see the hip-pocket/ bottom button "rule"follwed more stringently than the breast pocket top button rule.

Jason
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