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NEW JAPAN STYLE 2013 MEN'S JACKET and TROUSERS

drafting mens jacket mens trousers japanese style

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#1 Miyabi

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    I'm studying cutting and tailoring on my own.
    My husband has very sloped shoulders, his shoulders and hight of arm hole are not fitted commercial clothes.
    Also I have many problems with my size.
    So I want to tailor our clothes.

Posted 02 June 2017 - 11:28 PM

Hi,all.
I'm Japanese, and my English is bad.

I found "JAPAN NEW STYLE 2013" from Bespoke News(japanese magazine published by KEIJI TAKEDA).
These were drafted by 全日本紳士服デザイナー協会 (All Japan Men's were design association?)
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#2 Miyabi

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    I am Japanese living in Tokyo.
    I'm not good at English, but I possibly can translate Japanese if you want to.

    I'm studying cutting and tailoring on my own.
    My husband has very sloped shoulders, his shoulders and hight of arm hole are not fitted commercial clothes.
    Also I have many problems with my size.
    So I want to tailor our clothes.

Posted 02 June 2017 - 11:29 PM

Attached File  NewJapanStyle2013senior01.jpg   61.71KB   6 downloadsAttached File  NewJapanStyle2013senior02.jpg   37.67KB   5 downloads

#3 Miyabi

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    I am Japanese living in Tokyo.
    I'm not good at English, but I possibly can translate Japanese if you want to.

    I'm studying cutting and tailoring on my own.
    My husband has very sloped shoulders, his shoulders and hight of arm hole are not fitted commercial clothes.
    Also I have many problems with my size.
    So I want to tailor our clothes.

Posted 02 June 2017 - 11:30 PM

Attached File  NewJapanStyle2013senior03.jpg   52.08KB   6 downloadsAttached File  NewJapanStyle2013senior04.jpg   82.46KB   3 downloads
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#4 Miyabi

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    I am Japanese living in Tokyo.
    I'm not good at English, but I possibly can translate Japanese if you want to.

    I'm studying cutting and tailoring on my own.
    My husband has very sloped shoulders, his shoulders and hight of arm hole are not fitted commercial clothes.
    Also I have many problems with my size.
    So I want to tailor our clothes.

Posted 02 June 2017 - 11:33 PM

for young

Attached File  NewJapanStyle2013young01.jpg   73.49KB   4 downloads
Attached File  NewJapanStyle2013young02.jpg   42.29KB   3 downloads
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#5 Miyabi

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    I am Japanese living in Tokyo.
    I'm not good at English, but I possibly can translate Japanese if you want to.

    I'm studying cutting and tailoring on my own.
    My husband has very sloped shoulders, his shoulders and hight of arm hole are not fitted commercial clothes.
    Also I have many problems with my size.
    So I want to tailor our clothes.

Posted 02 June 2017 - 11:36 PM

Attached File  NewJapanStyle2013young03.jpg   51.31KB   2 downloads
Attached File  NewJapanStyle2013young04.jpg   62.62KB   7 downloads
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#6 Jeffrey

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Posted 03 June 2017 - 12:05 AM

Thank you Miyabi,

New drafting systems are always appreciated in any language.


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#7 Miyabi

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    I am Japanese living in Tokyo.
    I'm not good at English, but I possibly can translate Japanese if you want to.

    I'm studying cutting and tailoring on my own.
    My husband has very sloped shoulders, his shoulders and hight of arm hole are not fitted commercial clothes.
    Also I have many problems with my size.
    So I want to tailor our clothes.

Posted 03 June 2017 - 01:15 AM

Hi, Jeffrey-san
If someone want, I will transrate to English when I have a time.
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#8 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 03 June 2017 - 03:28 AM

Is there a link to download?


www.berlinbespokesuits.com

#9 Miyabi

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    I am Japanese living in Tokyo.
    I'm not good at English, but I possibly can translate Japanese if you want to.

    I'm studying cutting and tailoring on my own.
    My husband has very sloped shoulders, his shoulders and hight of arm hole are not fitted commercial clothes.
    Also I have many problems with my size.
    So I want to tailor our clothes.

Posted 03 June 2017 - 07:42 AM

Here is
http://bespokenews.c...

#10 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 03 June 2017 - 11:15 AM

Thank you Miyabi,

 

 I know it takes a long time to translate, and a lot of energy as well.  

 

If you have the time I am certain many people will appreciate your efforts.

 

G

 

Do you also make Yubinuki?

 

Also, I understand that Japanese hand sewing has a different style to European sewing.

 

Can you tell something about that?


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#11 greger

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Posted 03 June 2017 - 02:20 PM

Thanks for posting. 

Like to know more about these trousers. 

post-9327-0-78532200-1496410218.jpg



#12 Miyabi

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  • Interests:I am Miyabi.
    I am Japanese living in Tokyo.
    I'm not good at English, but I possibly can translate Japanese if you want to.

    I'm studying cutting and tailoring on my own.
    My husband has very sloped shoulders, his shoulders and hight of arm hole are not fitted commercial clothes.
    Also I have many problems with my size.
    So I want to tailor our clothes.

Posted 03 June 2017 - 03:35 PM

Hi, Schneiderfrei-san

I try to trancerate another project now, so translation of these will after a while.
Maybe, I will provide auto calculation of excel sheet.

--------
about yubinuki and 和裁

make?
Do you mean you usually make own thimble in your country?
If you meant Kaga yubinuki, sorry I haven't known that.

We usually use 指貫(ゆびぬき yubinuki thimble) in 和裁.
But, most of Japanese don't have experience 和裁.
I was born in 1980, and I did't learn 和裁 but easy hand sewing at school. I only learned knot making(?), running stitch, back stitch, button sewing.
My mother born in 1949, she also didn't learn 和裁.

In 1947, Japanese Industrial Standards about Household sewing machines was enacted, and sewing machine based on it has spread rapidly since then. At that time, Japanese had worn Europian clothing already (except for special occasion).
This is because we have not been educated 和裁 at school, I think.


---------
more about 和裁 ( not how-to)

Until the Taisho period, "裁縫saiho" (means:sewing) meant 和裁, but in order to distinguish between "yosai" (dressmaking), sewing wafuku came to be referred to as 'wafukusaiho' or 'wasai.'
Wafuku is traditional Japanese clothing(kimono, yukata...)
Wasai is an abbreviation for 'wafukusaiho'.

裁縫 sewing
裁 in this case means cutting
縫 sewing

和服 kimono, yukata etc.
和 in this case means Japanese
服 clothing

和裁=和服裁縫 Japanese dressmaking, kimono making
all sewing by hand only()


---------
about yubinuki that is a Japanese traditional craft

I am ashamed of my poor knowledge about Japanese tradition, so I googled and I knew "Kaga yubinuki" for first time.
This traditional craft is made of silk yarns.
Some person enjoy making this as a hobby.

I found this.
加賀ゆびぬき online design simulator
http://yubinuki.ichiko.me
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#13 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 03 June 2017 - 05:09 PM

Thank you for all that background Miyaki.

 

I hope I did not embarrass you.  Its good to find out things about your culture. 

 

It is not common for Westerners to make their own thimbles either.

 

G


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#14 Miyabi

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  • Interests:I am Miyabi.
    I am Japanese living in Tokyo.
    I'm not good at English, but I possibly can translate Japanese if you want to.

    I'm studying cutting and tailoring on my own.
    My husband has very sloped shoulders, his shoulders and hight of arm hole are not fitted commercial clothes.
    Also I have many problems with my size.
    So I want to tailor our clothes.

Posted 03 June 2017 - 10:51 PM

Hi, greger-san

Thank you for your request, I will do for the moment.


But, the page you requested is for senior.There is no description about a range of senior generation.
And, totale balance of pattern is designed for Japanese(Japanese average height is 170.7cm, and our leg-to-body ratio is smaller than that of western people. So, I'm afraid that the pattern drafted by this method possibly not suit you.
Is it OK for you.

wikipedia(English)
List of average human height worldwide
https://en.m.wikiped...eight_worldwide
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#15 Miyabi

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  • Interests:I am Miyabi.
    I am Japanese living in Tokyo.
    I'm not good at English, but I possibly can translate Japanese if you want to.

    I'm studying cutting and tailoring on my own.
    My husband has very sloped shoulders, his shoulders and hight of arm hole are not fitted commercial clothes.
    Also I have many problems with my size.
    So I want to tailor our clothes.

Posted 04 June 2017 - 04:14 PM

Schneiderfrei-san

Yes.
I greatly appreciate that you gave me an opportunity to know.
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