Jump to content


Photo

Waistband - brace top trousers


  • Please log in to reply
8 replies to this topic

#1 lngn2

lngn2

    Apprentice

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 138 posts

Posted 26 August 2017 - 08:14 PM

I am presently making up some tartan trews for a wedding in December. The waistband is making me think though... What's the correct material for brace top trousers? As I understand it they don't have a waistband in the banroll sense. At present I'm using stiff collar canvas - http://www.williamge...sew-in-natural/ - cut to shape by taking the draft, marking out the waistband shape on paper and then closing the darts before cutting the canvas. This seems correct based on what I can find but the old texts are pretty vague on the point!
  • Schneiderfrei likes this

#2 Terri

Terri

    Pro

  • Super Pro
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,021 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Ontario Canada

Posted 26 August 2017 - 11:54 PM

Your process sounds correct.
The choice of material depends on how structured you want them to be. There is no single correct answer.
  • Schneiderfrei likes this

#3 tombennett

tombennett

    Apprentice

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 326 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Bristol, UK
  • Interests:Tailoring (especially from the 1960s), Photography, DJing, House-Music, Northern Soul and, Life.

Posted 27 August 2017 - 05:39 AM

Traditionally one would use Flax to stiffen the waistband and brace top, the stuff with the red, white and blue selvage.  Then use your lining of choice to cover and create the curtain.



#4 lngn2

lngn2

    Apprentice

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 138 posts

Posted 27 August 2017 - 08:38 AM

Thanks both - much appreciated. The other thing that puzzles me is how the darts on almost all brace top trousers seem to taper to nothing at the top. Presumably any excess is taken out at fitting? In my case I've had to open the top of the darts 1/4" each to take a total of 1" out overall otherwise the top gapes horribly!

Tom - any links to a supplier for flax please? I've not spotted anything of this description anywhere in any of the London suppliers I've been to recently!

#5 Schneiderfrei

Schneiderfrei

    Pro

  • Senior Members
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 863 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Adelaide, Australia
  • Interests:learning and imagination

Posted 27 August 2017 - 11:29 AM

In the antipodes that flax band sounds very exotic. Could you show it please Tom.

 

I have used a medium hair canvas length doubled over and basted up quite successfully.  It's pretty light and supple and it does add body to the band.


Edited by Schneiderfrei, 27 August 2017 - 11:32 AM.

Shell made out of gold
Found on a beach picked up and you held so close


#6 tombennett

tombennett

    Apprentice

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 326 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Bristol, UK
  • Interests:Tailoring (especially from the 1960s), Photography, DJing, House-Music, Northern Soul and, Life.

Posted 27 August 2017 - 08:10 PM

The Lining Company, Dugdale Bros.

 

http://www.thelining...vas-white-edge/


Edited by tombennett, 27 August 2017 - 08:13 PM.


#7 lngn2

lngn2

    Apprentice

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 138 posts

Posted 27 August 2017 - 09:19 PM

Thanks Tom - looks like Duck linen.

#8 J. Maclochlainn

J. Maclochlainn

    Master

  • Senior Professional
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,127 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 28 August 2017 - 01:47 PM

This is another "cotton" option ...
https://www.etsy.com..._items_search_2
  • tombennett likes this
Silly Cognoscenti, Drape is for windows!

#9 Nigel

Nigel

    Apprentice

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 102 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:London
  • Interests:Restoring old buildings
    Crafts, including hand sewing
    Family History

Posted 05 October 2017 - 05:06 PM

I made some breeches recently with a high waist, braces back and no waistband.  I used some leftover waistcoat canvas, possibly made of hemp, which is much softer than collar canvas.  If the trousers are to be held up exclusively with braces and never to worn with a belt (or on their own) I can see no reason why any stiffness should be required in the waist - on the contrary one of the pleasures of wearing trousers or breeches of this kind is that the waist is so soft and comfortable.






0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users