I am trying to understand my own body type and posture, both as an exercise which should help in all future projects regardless of who the garment is being made for, and to improve the fit of clothes I am making for myself (shirts, waistcoats and now experimental coats).
My low right shoulder is quite pronounced and I adjusted for it successfully in my last project but I am struggling a bit with other aspects of balance. I don't think I am either over-erect or stooping yet I seem to have characteristics pointing both ways. My attempt at making a waistcoat resulted in surplus fabric in the upper chest, as did my first attempt at coat making (the latter I adjusted by taking out a dart in the lapel area which improved things but did not completely solve the problem). I thought this, together with my rather pronounced calves and thighs, might being pointing to an over-erect posture. However, I also noticed (in the same recent experimental coat project) the phenomenon - shown in Fig 14 of King Wilson excellent little volume on fitting (attached) - where the collar sits back a little from the neck when the coat is buttoned, which suggests a stooping posture.
Reading King Watson more carefully, I see he talks of a flat chest as being an alternative explanation to over erect posture for the surplus fabric there and a thick back as an alternative explanation for a stooping figure for the slight shortness in the back. Could this be my answer: that I have a normal posture but with a thick back and flat chest?
Edited by Nigel, 16 November 2017 - 10:32 PM.