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slim fit trouser draft

trouser drafting slimmer leg low waist

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#1 creatieve mie

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Posted 23 November 2017 - 09:37 PM

I am in need of some advice.My eldest son needs some more formal trousers instead of his usual skinny jeans.He has requested a pair of tousers that are slim in the leg,not skinny,and he wears his trousers lower on his hips.
I have the masie trouser draft and also the MTOC.Do I draft them up to the hip and then decide if the topline should be lowered?I was thinking of making a regular trouser draft,make them up in calico and then make the changes needed to fit him,lower waistline and make the leg slimmer or would that distort the draft too much.
He has fairly long legs and is a bit knock kneed,seat is 98,5,natural waist is 79,hips are 84,5 and his overall height is 189.Outseam is 114,inseam is 90 so 24 rise?
Many thanks:-)

Edited by creatieve mie, 23 November 2017 - 11:32 PM.

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#2 tombennett

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Posted 23 November 2017 - 11:45 PM

There are many factors one would need to take into account when making slim-fit trousers: Hip position in relation to the legs, are the claves proud where and in what direction, the gate and straightness or otherwise of the legs, the shape of the seat and, the size of the thighs.  Mansie's draft is a good starting point if you have never drafted trousers before, I found the tailor and cutter draft a good draft as these are for slimmer fit trousers but, like all systems they are really just a starting point and remember Ironwork is really important on slim-fit trousers more so than for looser fit.

 

How knock-kneed? You can draft for this if you know the way, otherwise one can cut the pattern at the knee to open a wedge the required amount.  Two fingers between the knees is considered as normal, each finger less is a ⅜" wedge, do his feet turn in?  If so you can swing the legs in a bit to keep the crease on the middle of the foot.  

 

Just a few thoughts from me.


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#3 creatieve mie

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Posted 29 November 2017 - 06:16 PM

Here is my progress so far:
I made the Mansie trouser draft(black and red lines) and after the first fitting I raised the front by 1cm and lowered the backseam by 2 cm.Attached File  IMG_20171129_081355(1).jpg   72.96KB   2 downloadsAttached File  IMG_20171129_081414(1).jpg   75.35KB   3 downloads
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#4 creatieve mie

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Posted 29 November 2017 - 06:19 PM

first fitting

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#5 creatieve mie

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Posted 29 November 2017 - 06:20 PM

sides

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#6 creatieve mie

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Posted 29 November 2017 - 06:22 PM

second fitting with alteration front rise and back rise,back crotch point moved out

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#7 creatieve mie

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Posted 29 November 2017 - 06:23 PM

side view second fitting

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#8 creatieve mie

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Posted 29 November 2017 - 06:28 PM

Next I made a second toile where I kept the alterations from before and made the leg slimmer,bottom is too small,I ended up ripping the side seam for about 10cm up the leg ,it improved the hang of the leg

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#9 creatieve mie

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Posted 29 November 2017 - 06:29 PM

side view

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#10 creatieve mie

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Posted 29 November 2017 - 06:30 PM

back view

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#11 creatieve mie

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Posted 29 November 2017 - 06:34 PM

The fly still pulls and distorts the front,however the seat has enough room and feels very comfortable(according to the son),sitting down is no problem.I did convince him that the bottom needs to be widened to have a nice lookin leg or am I wrong.
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#12 peterle

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Posted 29 November 2017 - 09:01 PM

As always in trousers of the Mansie Draft the back seam run is much too full. (We had a thread about that. In other pattern drafts the back seat seam curve never protrudes the front  crotch seam curve). Scooping it out will help.(BTW: what do you mean by back crotch point moved out?).

 

A second tip: the front has diagonal pulling lines from crotch to Waist/sideseam. It will eventually profit from adding about 1,5-2cm to the waistseam/sideseam point of the fronts. (This will make the hip curve a bit shallower). You can then decide in the fitting wether to remove this additional width with a front dart, or by moving the crotch/waist seam point towards the side seam, or by combining both.

 

By looking at your front pattern I want to point out, that the peak of the side seam hip curve should be at the hip line, not at the crotch line. It seems to be too low in your pattern.


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#13 creatieve mie

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Posted 29 November 2017 - 09:32 PM

Thank you,by now I think I have read so many threads on trousers that I am mixing things up.I mean I widened the crotch point as it says in the trousers fitting guide I found on this forum,raised the front,lowered the back waist.
I wil draft a new version and make the changes you suggested.Hopefully I will be able to squeeze another pair out of the remaining cloth.Now that you mentioned it yes the curve is not right that explain the puffiness on the side seam.I find I rather enjoy making these drafts and learning every step of the way.On to draft nr3!
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#14 peterle

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Posted 30 November 2017 - 12:36 AM

I doubt you need a crotch extension. He doesn´t look like a "round" body to me, so no need for extra room for the trunk.

 

I think the "trunk space" is  just not positioned in the right place.  I see you have enough inlays in your toile so just for experiment I would try the following to shift the "trunk space" towards the  back (quick and dirty) :

 

Keeping the crotch tips  at  the exact same spot as they were in the original draft, shift the whole back seat seam line towards the side seam for about 1,5cm parallelly to the horizontal crotch line. (This will extend the back crotch point relatively). Do the same to the front fly line, but shift it away from the  side seam. (this will shorten the crotch point relatively). This procedure shifts the whole trunk space relatively to the legs and will hopefully remove the diagonal lines at the back and reduce the superfluous fabric at the front crotch.


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#15 creatieve mie

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Posted 03 December 2017 - 11:05 PM

Well,the "quick and dirty" seems to have done the trick.The tightness around the crotch area has disappeared,I did take in a front dart to remove the excess width at the waistband.I made the sideseam run straighter and removed some minor excess in the final draft.The backseam needs to be a bit longer because now the waistband dips in the back.
Anymore changes I should take before cutting my fabric?
Thank you again for the feedback!

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Edited by creatieve mie, 03 December 2017 - 11:07 PM.


#16 peterle

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Posted 04 December 2017 - 06:41 AM

Can you make some pics wearing the trousers in the same position as in post #8 please? In the new pics he seems to wear the trousers some centimeters lower (knuckles-crotchline). Maybe the inlays make some trouble?

 

Where did you get the exess width in the waistseam? The quick and dirty method of post 14 wouldn´t extend the waistseam because you add at the front what you removed in the back. (maybe my fault: I didn´t say that when you do the post 14 method skip tip one and two of post 12. Correcting the hip curve peak is necessary in any case).



#17 creatieve mie

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Posted 05 December 2017 - 06:03 AM

I redid the sewing of the last try and found the origin of the excess width.I accidentally changed the backseat angle which resulted in the excess on the waist.
I corrected the hip curve and I think I am where I want to be right now.He claims they are exactly how he wants them.
I added new pictures,what is your opinion ?

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#18 creatieve mie

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Posted 05 December 2017 - 06:08 AM

I asked him to wear them how he did before in post 8,I think this was the correct position

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