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slim fit trouser draft

trouser drafting slimmer leg low waist

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#19 peterle



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Posted 05 December 2017 - 08:02 PM

One thing is see in all the pics is, he´s wearing the trousers higher at his right hip, what causes the different  fit of the left and the right side. Maybe Your son´s right hip is a bit higher. You can fix this by making the waistline of the right leg higher for about 1,5cm at the side seam and taper to the existing waistline at the opposit side seam. This alteration pays attention to the tilted hip bone and will release the right leg a bit downwards.(When you measure the distance from the waistseam to the floor at the left and at the right side (aka balance measurements), the difference is the exact amount)


A second thing: I think you could scoop out the back seat seam curve a bit more. (keep the end points of the line as they are).


For tight trousers like this it is also very important to give the seat seam curve a good stretch with ironwork BEFORE sewing it. The finished seam will lock the stretching in place.

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#20 posaune



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Posted 06 December 2017 - 12:37 AM

just a remark:Your pics are so small, I can scarcely see what is going on. Maybe my old eyes??

In my opinion not only scoop out - I would alter the seat angle. The back pants must coming up. "Geseass"line dips.

If I see his posture right he is pushing his belly into front. Shoulderblades and behind are not plumb. So the angle (and altreration) should be for a flat seat.



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#21 greger



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Posted 06 December 2017 - 05:29 AM

pushing his belly into (the) front. 



This is a good way of describing this activity for those who do this. Looking for actions helps one to notice.


Some tailors are always looking at the customer measuring in their head the exact amounts to change the pattern. They only want to cut once, and the least amount of fittings. If the customer starts feeling uncomfortable, when being looked at, they distract them so they can get back to work figuring out pattern adaptions for that customer.


Don't know how many tailors pay attention to this. When sitting does the hem of pants legs move up? If the hem moves up halfway up the lower leg, that's shoddy cutting. Getting the right seat slant and dart widths will correct this, and probably a couple of other things I forgot. This may make other problems that have other solutions. Tight pant legs sliding up and down while walking (rubbing, which may have another solution) and sitting will not be as comfortable, and some are just plain uncomfortable.


The waistband can be pinned in place as one wants to figure its location. 

Edited by greger, 06 December 2017 - 05:35 AM.

#22 creatieve mie

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Posted 06 December 2017 - 09:46 PM

[quote name="posaune" post="48764" timestamp="1512484638"]just a remark:Your pics are so small, I can scarcely see what is going on. Maybe my old eyes??
The original pics are much bigger,too big to upload here so I needed to reduce them so drastic to fit here.
Thanks for the advice,now that you pointed it out this is exactly what was bothering me.I have cut the cloth for his trousers but left enough inlay on backseam and also on the top so the angle can be changed.Maybe I should baste them together first with the alteration you suggested or can I still do that after I did the front pockets and zipper?
No,the pants do come up a little bit when he sits but only a few cm but certainly not halfway.

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