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My first shirt


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#1 agrigorc

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Posted 25 November 2017 - 04:27 AM

Hi guys,

 

for a while I was reading this forum, thinking about trying to make my own shirts and finally the last 2 months I had time to work on it.

I would appreciate any comments and advices you can give me to improve it.

 

From what I personally notice there seems to be too much fabric behind under the arm on the sleeve side, and a fold near the collar on my right shoulder.

 

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#2 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 25 November 2017 - 09:13 AM

What draft did you use?

 

Who took your measurements?

 

Its a first shirt and there are problems of course.

 

Those two factors above will help sort out where things went wrong.

 

When you are doing a toile/muslin/model:

 

It is very important to thread mark all the pattern/draft lines.

It is not necessary to put all the buttons in completely.  

You only have to do the bodice, that saves a lot of time before you make up an entire shirt. 

 

Though you got sewing practice in. :)

 

G


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Found on a beach picked up and you held so close


#3 peterle

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Posted 25 November 2017 - 07:37 PM

At the first sight I think the main issue is, you have a low right shoulder. That causes the folds at the right side.

 

I also think your back darts are to close to the center back. I would shift them towards the side seam for about 3 cm. You should also check wether the apex of your waisting meets your natural waist.

 

Is the band collar meant to protrude the button stand?


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#4 posaune

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Posted 25 November 2017 - 08:18 PM

At the first sight......... but if you look at every pic you can not say how much, Peterle, I see 1 cm  up to 4 cm lower right side. Try to stand more relaxed, Agri.

Darts and pleats as Peterle said.

I think, that the right hip swings a bit out to the side. So the right side needs another hip "curve" than the left. A bit more fabric over the hip would be okay.

Look at side view: You have bent your hip forward. So your belly stands before bust and your behind before shouder blades. Take the hip measurement over the belly and go down to the back over the behind. As the measure is not used in the construction you must controll it in the pattern - this measurement + some ease (how much depends how you wear your shirt).

The neckhole is not good. It looks if the right back hole is not cut out enough. It maybe that your neck is not centered because of your scoliose(word?) look at last pic.

Collar  your design?? If you want it that way - the front buttonstand ist too long .

The sleeves are not right - must maybe rotated a bit.

lg

posaune



#5 agrigorc

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Posted 26 November 2017 - 03:20 AM

Obviously everyone noticed my weird looking collar(stand) :Big Grin: . I designed one based on the neck hole length, but when attaching it resulted too short. I double checked all the shirt parts with the draft and found no error. Tried to reattach it with no success. I designed another one based on the measurement from the shirt and when attaching it resulted too long. I don't know what happened there, but didn't want to make another one and attach it for the fifth time, so I just kept the weird looking collar for this shirt.

 

@Schneiderfrei

I took my own measurements and drafted the first pattern using the older version of makemypattern.com (now https://freesewing.org/ ). The results were poor because of my asymmetrical body. After that I did a couple of muslims, trying to adjust the pattern to my body. I wanted to try and build an actual shirt (for practice) when I was happy enough with the muslin version and this is the result. 

 

@peterle

You are right, my right shoulder is a lot lower. I tried to address this issue by making an asymmetrical pattern. It looks better compared to the first versions, but there is room to improvement.

I didn't find any clear information on where to put darts, so I just placed them at equal distance from each other and from side seam lines. I will follow your advice to move them a little bit apart. Thank you

 

@posaune

My shoulders are relaxed on the photos, actually I am probably never that relaxed when I interact with people, as I try to stay more erect.

I've never noticed my hip difference, but now I see that the left one is a little bit larger.

I don't fully understand your suggestion about the belly+back. The shirt makes sort of an S curve, but I thought it is because of the darts and my protruded shoulder blades.

The neckhole, true, now I see it. It is drafted parallel to the ground, but probably needs to be rotated towards the right (lower) shoulder. The right side is already cut wider than the left one. There was a much larger fold and cutting it wider partly fixed it.

Not sure what to do with sleeves, but I'll try to experiment rotating it. Maybe a higher sleeve cap? It is 12cm now.

 

Thank you


Edited by agrigorc, 26 November 2017 - 03:21 AM.

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#6 posaune

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Posted 26 November 2017 - 04:19 AM

sorry I can not add any pics.

The hip measurement:

Take your side view pic and draw a plump line (with the help of the door) from bustpoint down to the floor, you will see that your belly is cut through from this line. And if you do a plump line from the shoulder blades peak down to floor you will see your behind is cut from line too. Now you need in the pattern the whole circ - the part which is before your bust. Which you do not measure because the peak of the belly is above the placement from hip measurement. Your pattern draft has the hip measurement included so add here.

If your right shoulder is about 4 cm lower than the alteration concerns maybe the neck too. Take your back view pic and draw a net from horizontal and vertical lines.

The sleeves look like in the pic at your pattern drafting side (not good). A cap height about 12 cm tells me not much. The cap height depends on the armhole circ (or armhole height). A good cap height for a shirt is about 1/4 of armhole circ +- some cm.

lg

posaune



#7 agrigorc

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Posted 26 November 2017 - 06:59 AM

@posaune

Oh, sorry, I think I understood you wrong in the previous comment. You are talking about my body parts. Yes it's true about my behind, but the belly is flat. What you see is just how the shirt falls down untucked. So I'll adjust the hip measurement to add some room for the behind. Thank you.

 

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Edited by agrigorc, 26 November 2017 - 07:09 AM.

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#8 posaune

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Posted 26 November 2017 - 07:29 AM

I see in the pic above you are flat in front (not so on the shirt side view pic above, I doubt it is only the untucked), so you have to do another alteration. You need room for the behind, that means only for the back pattern. You clip the back armhole at the first 1/3 up from the armhole sideseam point - about 2 cm horizontal . Then cut from here down to the hem in a plumb line to the hem. You rotate the cut to side seam at hip level maybe 2 cm. Rotating point is armhole so it will not be shortened.

I hope, you do not stand extra erect in this photo. It is essential that you are relaxed, because the shirt should fit in real live not in what we want to be. It is why tailors talk much when measuring the customer - to relax him.

good luck

posaune


Edited by posaune, 26 November 2017 - 08:01 AM.

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#9 SPOOKIETOO

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Posted 26 November 2017 - 04:00 PM

Agri - Are you right handed?

Posaune - I think we are looking at what is now a rather common "computer posture" issue. The person's dominant side, in this case (and also my own) the right shoulder drops as the ribs on that side compact over time, from sitting at a computer. As a result, the hip on the same side is raised. While this used to be an issue only in older people, computer usage has made this a common problem for those only in their twenties or thirties.

Once I understood the the relationship of these deviations from "normal" posture, they were a bit easier to deal with.

Of course, I could be wrong.

#10 peterle

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Posted 26 November 2017 - 10:37 PM

I asked about the band collar, because I think that the folds there can be caused by attaching the band wrongly. When attaching the collar you must pay attention not to stretch the curvy lines of the neck hole.

 

The right band collar length is the length of the neck hole line. When sewing you can pin the ends of the collar and the center back where they belong.



#11 agrigorc

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Posted 26 November 2017 - 11:05 PM

@posaune

That's interesting about talking to the client. I made some more photos of myself, trying to be more relaxed and it's true, my belly sticks out a little. Probably I was inadvertently staying more erect on the last photograph. I'll try to follow your instructions for pattern alteration. Thank you

 

@SPOOKIETOO

You are right, I am right handed and work as a software developer, so computer is a big chunk of my life. Also I often carry bags on my left shoulder. The mix of this factors probably caused my uneven shoulders. I don't have scoliosis (checked by a medic), just an uneven muscle development, that I need to fix with some exercises.

 

@peterle

I was definitely attaching the collar wrong, because all the measurements were correct. Also the tip of the collar is not attached strait, so you are probably right about the fold.


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#12 SPOOKIETOO

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Posted 27 November 2017 - 02:56 AM

Agri - I suspect carrying heavy bags on your left shoulder actually helps your situation. I have seen younger people with IT jobs that have even more pronounced variance.
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#13 Simontam

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Posted 27 November 2017 - 06:55 PM

Apart from observing the wrinkles and folds on the sample garment, one may also judge the comfortableness of a sample garment through the facial expression of the wearer. A confident smile would surely add value to your sample! So, just relax and don’t forget to smile!

As for me, I prefer to a less slim silhouette shirt because a looser fit would perfectly cover up a lot of those fitting problems that are always hard to overcome when forming a three dimensional figure from two dimensional pattern cutting method. Typical challenge is the relation between the sleeve cap height and the bicep circumference to that of the arm cycle depth and the angle of shoulder drop, complicated by the degree of arm movement that the wearer normally expected.

In wearing a shirt, I would normally expect a lesser sleeve cap height, so that I would not rise my shirt bottom too much when I stretch my arm upward. But by the same token, When I lower my arm, I do not wish my sleeve gather closely under my armpit, especially in hot and humid summer!

I fully understand that every individual would have their own preference and definition in wearing comfortableness, and to strike the best balance is the beauty and art of a perfectly fitted garment!
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#14 agrigorc

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Posted 27 November 2017 - 10:28 PM

@SPOOKIETOO

Maybe it helps, but it will be difficult to tell for sure. Dynamics that define our muscle development are rather complex and there may be more than 2 factors I've listed, like sleeping position and and injuries.

 

@Simontam

Heh, my face is a common critique, but this is my relaxed face (aka RDF=Resting Dick Face) and there is nothing I can do about it. Forcing a smile is not always an option.

Anyways, I don't complain about the comfortableness of the garment, I can raise my hands quite high and do any movement without restriction, actually I went folk dancing in this shirt a couple of times (regardless its weird look) and was surprised that it does not limit my movements and stays in my pants even after 4 hours of dancing + 1 hour of cycling on a road bicycle, compared to any other shirt I own that gets untucked 10 minutes outside the door.

I am a very (very!) thin person, I could probably remove 10cm of fabric at the waistline without it becoming skintight, but that would restrict my movements. With such a slim figure a looser fit shirt will not necessarily look better.

You are right that the main goal is the balance between the beauty and the comfort. Let's see if I'll be able to succeed :)


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#15 MOPBUTTONS

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Posted 06 December 2017 - 05:38 PM

Hi, I am not professional of making shirts. But it looks nice. Practice makes perfect.
If you need shirt buttons, please feel free to contact me. We are one of natural shell buttons manufactuers in China with high quality and competitive prices. :twitch:View our collection via www.mopbuttons.com






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