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Excess Fabric When Seated

trousers seated pattern

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#1 ballmouse

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Posted 25 December 2017 - 01:24 PM

I have a pair of pants made from a pattern that seems pretty satisfactory when standing, but displays far too much excess fabric when seated.

 

I have the images below.

 

How can I reduce the fabric when seated without affecting anything else?

 

Thanks!

 

 

Attached File  seated1.jpg   108.99KB   14 downloadsAttached File  standing1.jpg   59.81KB   11 downloads



#2 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 25 December 2017 - 02:03 PM

Cut the waist 1 inch deeper. But the folds you will not get lesser.


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#3 ballmouse

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Posted 26 December 2017 - 08:15 AM

Thanks for the quick comment. I'm afraid I'm not very advanced in pattern making. What do you mean deeper? Do you mean have the waist 1 inch smaller? If so, you have very good eyes and I agree. I was planning on doing that as I usually have the waist at exactly my natural waist measurement and this one is exactly 1" larger but I didn't think anyone would be able to notice for the purposes of this photo.



#4 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 26 December 2017 - 08:38 AM

Not a smaller waist, a lower one is, I think, what DZ meant.


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#5 posaune

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Posted 26 December 2017 - 08:05 PM

when you sit down, you bend your body. Some distances in front will be shortened -  surplus fabric - and in back will get longer - need more fabric  -as in standing.

If your side seam to inside seam is correct and you have the right slant of the back crotch the surplus in front goes into some folds between thighs and belly and the waistband stays put in the back (same effect when you climb a stair). But never as exessive as in your pic. so I think your inseam is too short ergo the crotch seam too long.

Measure it.  Put a string around your waist, measure from center front to center back between your legs, add 4 cm for comfort to the measurement, and compare it with your trouser seam.

lg

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#6 peterle

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Posted 27 December 2017 - 02:05 AM

In addition to Posaunes comment I want to say the crotch seam can also be too long because the crotch diameter of your trouser is too big. Therefor the crotch seam sags and is lower than planned. Looking on the standing pic, I see some wavy folds in the upper inseam area possibly indicating a sagging crotch. So when your inseam- outseam measurements are correct maybe your crotch diameter is too big, wich could be removed by shortening the crotch tips.

 

It´s hard to say only from a front pic.

 

Wich pattern did You use?


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#7 ballmouse

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Posted 27 December 2017 - 04:16 AM

Thanks for the responses!

 

I measured along the front and back seams, and the trousers are maybe 1cm more than what I used the measuring tape on my own body + 4cm. I have another pair that has approximately the same front and back measurements which does not have as much excess fabric. The true rise of that pair (outseam - inseam) is about 1.25cm longer though.

 

But the idea of the crotch diameter is an interesting one. I don't have the pattern on me at the moment (it was based off an existing pair of trousers with some alterations).

 

Would shortening the crotch tips be something like?

Attached File  sewing-blog-1361 (1).jpg   13.3KB   4 downloads

 

I've taken a photo of the back now as well:

Attached File  back.jpg   36.47KB   5 downloads



#8 posaune

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Posted 27 December 2017 - 07:32 AM

Then your crotch length is okay.  As you can see, back waist dipps. Maybe atbout 2 cm.  So you have to alter - take away at front crotch length and add this to the back crotch length.

But show us the pattern before you do anything. A side view ould be helpfull too.

lg

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#9 ballmouse

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Posted 28 December 2017 - 11:37 AM

Sure. It'll take me until after the holidays before I can get the pattern. Attached is a side shot.

 

Attached File  vlcsnap-2017-12-27-20h34m43s218.jpg   24.31KB   6 downloads



#10 ballmouse

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Posted 06 January 2018 - 04:51 AM

Was able to take a photo of the pattern. See below:

 

Attached File  pattern_front.jpg   23.35KB   8 downloads

 

Attached File  pattern_back.jpg   37.51KB   9 downloads



#11 posaune

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Posted 07 January 2018 - 01:38 AM

Your balance between front pattern and back crotch looks wrong for me. If you look at the curved parts:

as far as I know it, the back crotch (how should I describe it?) is about 2/3 and the front crotch 1/3 from the crotch diameter. Your front crotch is small compared to the back. Your back pants look fine in the pic (but to short). I think you have curved out the back crotch to get the requiered length for back crotch? It may be what we call a Stehgeiger trouser:  (means if standing okay).  Have you looked what your back waist band does, when sitting down?

lg

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#12 peterle

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Posted 08 January 2018 - 12:43 AM

Is it possible You made the trousers waist tighter in the center back? It seems the underside creases of the finished trousers do have a different run than they would have according to the pattern. Also the back seam /waist seam angle in the finished pair is not as rectangular as in the pattern?



#13 ballmouse

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Posted 08 January 2018 - 04:45 AM

Thanks for the responses!

 

@posaune: It does look a little unusual. Are you suggesting perhaps I should hollow out more of the front pattern? The back pattern was hollowed out to clean up some excess fabric. The back waistband pulls down a little when seated. The front rises up a bit if I can recall correctly. I can get a photo in a few days.

 

@peterle: Yes. I believe I did do that. I added a 2nd back dart too. I have a ~30 in waist and 39 in seat. My seat is also flat so that might explain why it looks very rectangular in the back pattern.



#14 Schneiderfrei

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Posted 08 January 2018 - 09:28 AM

What I think posaune is saying is:

 

When you see the back image seated it shows that the CB dips down, meaning that there is insufficient length in the back seam.

 

It appears that you have tried to solve this problem in this case by hollowing out the seat seam, which does increase the CB length, but not in relation to other elements in the pattern, such as the angle of the seat, which needs to be greater to avoid having trousers that you can only wear standing up..

 

The total length of the crotch seam is ok, so in order to correct this you may have to take length out of the crotch seam at the CF to give it to the CB. Not hollow the CF.

 

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#15 peterle

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Posted 08 January 2018 - 11:49 PM

The reason I asked for the seat seam is, I think the back waistline  is v-shaped because it´s sewn in a wrong angle and not necessarily because of a too short seat seam. For me it looks like you took out about 1inch on each side of the seatseam wich is too much when the waistline and side seam are kept the same.

 

A waist-hip drop of 9inches is indeed a lot. A proportional pattern is meant for a drop of about 5 inches. My approach would have been to draw a pattern with a propotional waist and than look where to get rid of the additional drop. Considering your figure I would install a second back dart (wich you did) but would also remove something at the sides seams so the seamlines would be a bit more curvy between hip line and waist line. (Drawing the pattern with a proportional waist instead of the measured one will probably have an inpact on the positioning of the fly seam and belly point)

 

BTW: I don´t think you have a flat butt. It´s at least normal. So a greater seat angle would be a good idea.

 

One last note: remeasuring your underside draft I noticed your crease line in the pattern is by far not the center line of your pattern. When I draw a line through the outseam crotch line notch wich is perpendicular to the crease line, the outseam is at 6,5cm and the crotch point is at 8,7cm. Does your pattern instructions call for this?


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#16 posaune

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Posted 10 January 2018 - 01:35 AM

I can not describe exactly - I do not have the vocabulary- what I mean. But will try. We have the length of the crotch seam. (This can be measured and you add 2-3 cm for comfort).

Which I think needs 1-2 cm more in back. At front waist center we have a point and at back waist center we have a point. With a regular built the back waist center  in a trouser is about 4-5 cm higher (depends) as the front centerpoint. If you have a round seat it will be a bit more and with a flat seat a bit less. And this depends on the trouser style. If this is here the case we do not know. (It would be good to lay the front trouser with its centerline and kneeline over the back trouser to check this and more. As Peterle mentioned the center lines do not look centered).

Your crotch form resembles an L. The length needed when sitting down is taken here out of the legs - not from the back crotch seam because of the form. It is not elastic enough. This pushes the fabric on the front part up because you have no wide legs.

L crotch works only with wide legs. You need a J crotch.

As I wrote earlier: for me the front crotch versus back crotch looks off. In the trouser forum there is the rundschau draft. Go down to the end of sators article and you'll see how it should look. And I too think you have a regular seat.

lg

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