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The Original Blazer Suit?


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#1 Sator

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Posted 08 October 2009 - 08:30 PM

What in blazes is a blazer? Well, the name is said to come either from the tunics worn by crew members of HMS Blazer, or it is said to be related to the blazing bright colours it is traditionally made up in. This is a blazer:



The uniforms of the members of HMS Blazer also had stripes. It doesn't have to have stripes, for it can be of other bright colours, but when it is made of bold stripes the pattern matching is maintained by cutting a one piece back. When made up with a solid cloth it is often made with contrast piping around the edges:



However, over the years the term has taken on a different meaning - a corruption that is either American or Continental in origin. That is, it has come firstly to mean any sort of coat with club type guilt buttons, whether single or double breasted. Navy blue DB reefers like the one in the above left photo too nowadays tend to commonly be called a "blazer". Oddly enough when one talks about a blazer as part of a school uniform nobody thinks of it as a solid navy reefer jacket.

In the article from Rundschau, July 1969, we find the corruption being extended to a navy odd jacket with guilt buttons. It is further made up into a suit with matching navy trousers to form what in German is called "ein Blazer-Anzug" - a blazer suit. Although the purist might complain that guilt buttons are not being enough to permit the coat to be called a blazer, it has still been done with a certain charm. Notice the sporty shirt cuffs turned back over the coat sleeves, narrow brimmed Panama hat, and club tie:







#2 Sator

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Posted 09 October 2009 - 12:50 AM

And, now (drum roll please frantics.gif ) here on the far right is a real blazer suit:



#3 I.Brackley

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Posted 09 October 2009 - 02:08 PM

Question:

Historically, was the (true) striped blazer always cut with a one-piece back? Were there ever exceptions? Or would that make such a hypothetical garment a lounge coat in stripes?

The CPG plate for a "cricket, tennis & boating jacket" which I think a charming set of names. Only now do I note the "crease edge" instruction on the the center back fool.gif


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#4 Sator

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Posted 09 October 2009 - 02:12 PM

I should imagine these things are driven more by the ability and willingness of the tailor rather by any rigid rules carved in stone. The more fastidious tailor would surely cut a one piece back to get the pattern matching right.

#5 Sator

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Posted 22 October 2009 - 12:16 PM

Another good example of a blazer:

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#6 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 22 October 2009 - 06:06 PM

Mr. Brackley,

Remember when you look at these historical draughts they reflect the fashion at the time, give or take 5 years. At the time this draught was published the whole-back was in vogue. But as Sator states above, it is more pratical to cut a one piece and manipulate it.

Jason
Silly Cognoscenti, Drape is for windows!

#7 Schneidergott

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Posted 23 October 2009 - 06:20 AM

Just to increase my post count ;):

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