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The Best of the 1970s


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#37 carpu65

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Posted 02 May 2011 - 01:27 AM

There is a school of thought that says the sixties did not end until 1972.


And another that said that the sixties end in 1966.
Depends... for exemple for me "sixties" are "Breakfast at Tiffany's" amd "Mad men",not "Hair".
I think that sixties were a decade of fast great changes,but big hairs,sideburns,huge lapels and bell botton trousers don't arrived until 1967 circa (and Mr Chipp from Chipp,a famous "Ivy League" shop and tailor house said that the "Ivy cycle of fashion ended with 1966").
Now 1967-1969 are only three years,too few for call they "the sixties".
Maybe is more correct said that 70s for many aspects start in 1967.

Edited by carpu65, 02 May 2011 - 01:29 AM.


#38 tailleuse

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Posted 02 May 2011 - 10:57 AM

And another that said that the sixties end in 1966.
Depends... for exemple for me "sixties" are "Breakfast at Tiffany's" amd "Mad men",not "Hair".
I think that sixties were a decade of fast great changes,but big hairs,sideburns,huge lapels and bell botton trousers don't arrived until 1967 circa (and Mr Chipp from Chipp,a famous "Ivy League" shop and tailor house said that the "Ivy cycle of fashion ended with 1966").
Now 1967-1969 are only three years,too few for call they "the sixties".
Maybe is more correct said that 70s for many aspects start in 1967.



I can see extending the Sixties to 1972, but "Hair" is the quintessential Sixties musical -- phenomenon, it was so much more than just a musical -- of the Sixties. I think it used to be described on the cover as the rock tribal musical of a generation, or something like that.

1968, Soixante-huitism, general social upheaval, was obviously in the Sixties. In 1969, the famous uprising at the Stonewall Inn took place, which is generally considered the start of the gay rights movement. (Public TV had a documentary on it.) The civil rights movement started in the early 1960s. The women's movement really got under way a little later, in the early 1970s. BTW, no bras were burned -- urban myth.

I associate the film "Breakfast at Tiffany's" with the tail end of the Fifties. It's too elegant and concerned about appearances to be truly Sixties.The original story, which I've never read, was set in the Forties. It's harder. Holly Go Lightly was unambiguously a call girl.



I agree with the common observation that the 19th Century didn't end until 1914.


Edited by tailleuse, 02 May 2011 - 10:59 AM.

Dignity. Always, dignity. (Singin' in the Rain)

#39 tailleuse

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Posted 02 May 2011 - 11:05 AM

Now, here is a look that has taken a bit of time to grow on me. Whatever you may think or say, there is no questioning that the overcoat has character - loads of it too. Notice too the high and narrow shoulders so typically 1970s. Together with that goes some very skillful tailoring.

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Also from the January, 1971 issue of Rundschau.


He looks like a pimp. Posted Image More seriously, it's a very strong look, and rare is the man who can pull it off without looking slightly ridiculous, at least in my opinion.


Full Disclosure: A distant relative of mine was rumored to be a pimp. In the 70s, he wore clothes like this. Very attractive man.


Edited by tailleuse, 02 May 2011 - 11:07 AM.

Dignity. Always, dignity. (Singin' in the Rain)

#40 carpu65

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Posted 03 May 2011 - 03:19 AM

I can see extending the Sixties to 1972, but "Hair" is the quintessential Sixties musical -- phenomenon,

quintessential LATE Sixties musical -- phenomenon.

I agree with the common observation that the 19th Century didn't end until 1914.


Well, and is probable that 1958-1963 are an era apart.
But is undoubted that early-mid 60s (1960-1966 circa) are quite different from late 60s (1967-1969).
So when i feel put together all 60s with hippies and counterculture...
well i fear to don't agree.
60s are a very composite decade; are different eras in 60s: (1960-1963/1964-1966/1967-1969).

Edited by carpu65, 03 May 2011 - 03:22 AM.


#41 Schneidergott

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Posted 11 June 2011 - 03:37 PM

Here is a nice DB from 1974 (made by Dietl, Munich):

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Timeless? :poke: (without the side burns, of course)

"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

"Es gibt keinen Grund mit Erfahrung zu prahlen, denn man kann etwas auch viele Jahre falsch machen!"
"There is no reason to boast of your experience, because it's possible to do things wrong for a long time!"


#42 greger

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Posted 11 June 2011 - 05:33 PM

Here is a nice DB from 1974 (made by Dietl, Munich):

Posted Image

Timeless? :poke: (without the side burns, of course)


That is a really nice coat!
It would be nice to see the full suit. (Are the trousers as good as the coat?)

#43 Schneidergott

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Posted 11 June 2011 - 07:07 PM

That is a really nice coat!
It would be nice to see the full suit. (Are the trousers as good as the coat?)



There is only the coat, no trousers. You hardly see pictures of trousers only. Kind of sad, actually.

"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

"Es gibt keinen Grund mit Erfahrung zu prahlen, denn man kann etwas auch viele Jahre falsch machen!"
"There is no reason to boast of your experience, because it's possible to do things wrong for a long time!"


#44 Schneidergott

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Posted 11 June 2011 - 09:06 PM

More 70's stuff:

A pinstripe suit by Hussmüller, Munich:

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Same dude in a different suit:

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This is an interesting side by side display of 70's suits:

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"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

"Es gibt keinen Grund mit Erfahrung zu prahlen, denn man kann etwas auch viele Jahre falsch machen!"
"There is no reason to boast of your experience, because it's possible to do things wrong for a long time!"


#45 Nishijin

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Posted 11 June 2011 - 11:02 PM

This is an interesting side by side display of 70's suits:



The French suit in the middle is not really typical of Parisian tailoring. It is probably the work of Cristiani, as this very unusual collar was his "trade mark". This collar is difficult to make, BTW.
That said, the cut of the body is quite representative of parisian style. Wide chest (with a wide back), low waist (we are in the 1970s, when the waist was usually quite high).

It is interesting to see that in the 1970s, front darts were still frequently cut as fish darts. It gives a different look to the front.
http://www.paulgrassart.com

Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.
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#46 carpu65

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Posted 12 June 2011 - 12:24 AM

I know,technically great suits...
but so weird!
and those hairs,and glassess,and ties patterns... :wacko:

Edited by carpu65, 12 June 2011 - 12:26 AM.


#47 Schneidergott

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Posted 12 June 2011 - 03:32 AM

I know,technically great suits...
but so weird!
and those hairs,and glasses,and ties patterns... :wacko:



Weren't sideburns already a feature of pre 1900? :poke:

"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

"Es gibt keinen Grund mit Erfahrung zu prahlen, denn man kann etwas auch viele Jahre falsch machen!"
"There is no reason to boast of your experience, because it's possible to do things wrong for a long time!"


#48 Sator

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Posted 12 June 2011 - 10:56 AM

I know,technically great suits...
but so weird!
and those hairs,and glassess,and ties patterns... :wacko:


Some of it is a bit dated but most of it I find très groovy!!! :Party:
Gustav Mahler (1860-1911): "Tradition ist die Weitergabe des Feuers und nicht die Anbetung der Asche."

"Tradition is about passing on the flame, and not the worshipping of ashes"

#49 carpu65

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Posted 14 June 2011 - 01:04 AM

Weren't sideburns already a feature of pre 1900? :poke:


One of more great invention ,in late 1890s, was the safety razor.

#50 Sator

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Posted 22 June 2011 - 11:20 AM

Here is Hüssmüller again looking as impeccable as always in Rundschau March 1973:

Posted Image

Another example of his work from the same issue:

Posted Image

It's always a complete joy to see examples of this great maestros work.
Gustav Mahler (1860-1911): "Tradition ist die Weitergabe des Feuers und nicht die Anbetung der Asche."

"Tradition is about passing on the flame, and not the worshipping of ashes"

#51 Sator

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Posted 06 August 2011 - 06:20 PM

Here is something interesting from The Tailor & Cutter, May 1972. It is a feature on Walter Albini, a designer based in Milan.

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It kind of looked a bit familiar:

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From Tom Ford's winter 2011 collection.
Gustav Mahler (1860-1911): "Tradition ist die Weitergabe des Feuers und nicht die Anbetung der Asche."

"Tradition is about passing on the flame, and not the worshipping of ashes"

#52 Schneidergott

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Posted 06 August 2011 - 06:45 PM

Posted Image

Early bum freezer?

I like model 906 (DB), although I get the feeling it would have been more harmonious with 6 buttons.

Posted Image
Or at least buttons of a lighter colour. The coat is still up-to-date. I like the shoulders.:thumbsup:

"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

"Es gibt keinen Grund mit Erfahrung zu prahlen, denn man kann etwas auch viele Jahre falsch machen!"
"There is no reason to boast of your experience, because it's possible to do things wrong for a long time!"


#53 greger

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Posted 07 August 2011 - 08:25 AM

This coat certainly reminds me of the seventies. Some of the Italian styles did influence the American market.
As you can see, it is rtw since it does not fit so well.


Posted Image

#54 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 07 August 2011 - 09:31 AM

All those 70thies suits from Rundschau are unbelievable well tailored in German standard. The Rundschau's of the 70thies are precious.

And don't think those people showing their coats cannot cut a pair of trousers...

Schneidern heisst, viel Wissen, viel Arbeit und keine Kohle im Sack, dafuer aber viele Kunden, die alles besser wissen.  :Big Grin:





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