73 replies to this topic

[Schneidergott]

All those 70thies suits from Rundschau are unbelievable well tailored in German standard. The Rundschau's of the 70thies are precious.

And don't think those people showing their coats cannot cut a pair of trousers...

I don't know about "standards" in tailoring, but many tailors in Germany were and some still are from foreign countries.
There were a lot of Italian tailors working in Germany back in those days, so part of the credits for fine workmanship (should) go to them. Plus I guess that not all the suits kicked out by German tailoring firms were "impeccable" (just like in any other country, even in Italy and UK)!
What's on display in Rundschau magazines is for show only and there is the rule that the master tailor should look his best, at least in public.

[Measure Man]

I agree with Schneidergott, Savile Row also relies heavily on Tailors from many countries,

When I was in Savile Row in the late 80's the most talented Coat Maker I worked with was from Sicily. He was taught to tailor as a child and by the time he was 15 he left home to work in Italy. He also worked in Germany, SR twice, South Africa, and the USA. Such was his talent that he could easily find employment where ever he went.

We are a Scottish firm but when we won the Keith and Henderson Cup in 1954 a lot of the credit has to go to a Polish Tailor that worked for us at the time.

[Der Zuschneider]

I don't know about "standards" in tailoring, but many tailors in Germany were and some still are from foreign countries.
There were a lot of Italian tailors working in Germany back in those days, so part of the credits for fine workmanship (should) go to them. Plus I guess that not all the suits kicked out by German tailoring firms were "impeccable" (just like in any other country, even in Italy and UK)!
What's on display in Rundschau magazines is for show only and there is the rule that the master tailor should look his best, at least in public.

I have not seen any none German in Rundschau presenting their suits. On every picture you can clearly read which German master is publishing in those pictures.
There might be none German tailors in Germany, but either they are not good enough to show their work in Rundschau of the 70thies or they have no interest in showing it. And in East Germany all German Tailors were 100% German, East Germany was a closed compound with a wall around.

And if there are Tailors of looking like other heritage they probably were apprenticed in Germany.
Flingelli has an Italian name. Is he therefore a none German tailor? Nope, He is a German tailor.

So where are the many tailors in rundschau which are none Germans? I think 97% in Rundschau publishing’s are Germans and 3% none Germans.

[Der Zuschneider]

I agree with Schneidergott, Savile Row also relies heavily on Tailors from many countries,

When I was in Savile Row in the late 80's the most talented Coat Maker I worked with was from Sicily. He was taught to tailor as a child and by the time he was 15 he left home to work in Italy. He also worked in Germany, SR twice, South Africa, and the USA. Such was his talent that he could easily find employment where ever he went.

We are a Scottish firm but when we won the Keith and Henderson Cup in 1954 a lot of the credit has to go to a Polish Tailor that worked for us at the time.

I am talking about tailors in Rundschau of Germany and their work with German cutting system from Rundschau, this has nothing to do with UK or any other country in this world.

[Schneidergott]

With all the invasions and wars in Europe during the millennia (Romans,Saxons, Vikings) and centuries (Swedes, French, and the Allied Forces after WWII) the concept of 100% pure of something is to be doubted.
Also, most of the royal families in Europe are somehow related, The British Royal family is technically German.

AFAIK, the foreign tailors working in Germany after the war did not apprentice in Germany. They may have picked up something from other colleagues, but I think that tailoring is pretty similar on an international scale, so exchange was the norm.
In either case, I think the late 60's and the 70's were the best days of tailoring (perhaps even of fashion?)!
So lets forget about cultural differences and enjoy what is shown.

[Der Zuschneider]

The tailoring of the end 60thies and 70thies was the elite of tailoring also in traditional cut and difficulty, what I think.
Today we need to continue the accuracy and modern making with light fabric in order to be successful, and this is not easy to achieve.

[culverwood]

I was looking at a French Vouge from 1974 at the weekend, the Marlene Dietrich edition, and while many of the clothes were dated there was a camel coloured ensemble that could have come from the current collection from Max Mara or many other fashion houses. Many things change but some things stay the same.

Edited by culverwood, 08 August 2011 - 07:40 PM.

[carpu65]

When I was in Savile Row in the late 80's the most talented Coat Maker I worked with was from Sicily.

Is a sort of "back to home" in this case.
Sicily in XIX century was closely linked with UK ,and were many british residents untill the end of Napoleonic wars.
Many important families were of british origin:
Withaker,Ingham ,Grill,Adams,Sackeville,Sanderson,Aders,Kilbourne,and many others.
Sicilian nobility was extremely Anglophile,and in late XIX clerks of Poole and others London tailors,visited Sicily.

In the picture Sicilian tycon Ignazio Florio with a suit of Henry Poole (1895)



So Sicilian tailors had as model British fashion.
Many important tailors of Palermo,Catania,Messina sent their sons to Saville Row to learn the art.

P.S.
For Albini,i think that is in the same trend of Tommy Nutter: and exagerated version of 20s and 30s fashion,with pattern on pattern on pattern on pattern (very huge pattern).
Sincerly i don't like at all.

[Schneidergott]

The tailoring of the end 60thies and 70thies was the elite of tailoring also in traditional cut and difficulty, what I think.
Today we need to continue the accuracy and modern making with light fabric in order to be successful, and this is not easy to achieve.

Strange how the light weight cloths of then became the heavy weight cloths of today....

P.S.
For Albini,i think that is in the same trend of Tommy Nutter: and exagerated version of 20s and 30s fashion,with pattern on pattern on pattern on pattern (very huge pattern).
Sincerly i don't like at all.

I'm not a big fan of that kind of pattern mix either, although I favour in general patterned fabrics over plain weaves, even though they are more difficult to work with (pattern matching is also much more time consuming).

All in all, even though some of the 70's fashions and styles were a bit strange and extravagant, the garments were always well made, which is something you have to look hard for nowadays, especially in (middle of the road) RTW.

[Schneidergott]

More stuff from 1975, shown at the world congress of master tailors in Rome:



Not a big fan of the hats in this case... Looks troppo Mafia to me!






Suit from Nativo, Florence:





And some suits from Brioni:







The coat with the panelled front is again from Nativo.

[Schneidergott]

Here is a nice DB from a 1972 Rundschau made by the tailors of Max Dietl, Munich:



Check out the front trouser crease...

In the same league:



And another DB from the same year which would still be wearable today:



And to show the greater versatility (and acceptance of non conservative garments) some party outfits with a very fancy closure:

[Sator]

I think this coat belongs in this thread:

[Sator]

I thought that this one from the Grafton Fashions book, 1971 deserved to be in this thread:

[Sator]

From RS July 1972:

[carpu65]

Is a pity that a beautifull slimline like that above is ruined by those huge lapels.

[Sator]

I think they are very elegant - I like the shape more than these:



But I guess in the 1930s you were allowed to wear Tommy Nutter lapels because anything from that decade is Eternal Style and not fashion

[Sator]

Also from RS July 1972:

[Sator]

Prize winning suits from Rundschau tailoring contest winner Willi Flingelli featured in Rundschau, November 1976:





Willi Flingelli after being awarded the prize:



He is congratulated by Jacob Kraus and Michael Hussmueller: