The Best of the 1970s
Posted 25 October 2009 - 09:47 PM
The biggest development in the style of the lounge coat was the predominance of the button-two coat, with the long lapels. The popularity of this style is something that endures to this day, and is a lasting legacy of the 1970s. I also like the way three piece lounge suits were extremely common, usually matched with a very plainly cut SB waistcoat. More conservatively cut coats than the fashionable Nutter-Sexton styled ones still have fairly wide lapels and the trouser hems widened a little compared to the more closely cut uppers. Coats in general were cut clean and close to the chest, waist and shoulders.
Posted 26 October 2009 - 01:30 AM
Well,i agree on the first part,but i dont'think that the wide lapels-flared trouser bottoms was created by Nutter.
The 1970s were probably the last decade in which the fashionable cut was set by bespoke tailoring with the Nutter-Sexton team creating the look with the dramatically wide lapels, often with narrow concave shoulders and flared trouser bottoms.
Was an world trend,start at the same time (1968-70) in GB,France,USA,Italy.
In Italy for exemple in 70s we had two trend in bespoke:
1-Tailors more fashion oriented (like Battistoni,Coccoli,Piattelli,Brioni,Litrico)make suit with wide lapels,concave shoulders and bell bottom trousers.
An exemple by Brioni:
2-Tailors with more classical approach (The most,some big names: Caraceni,Rubinacci,Pirri,Blasi,Casiero,Attolini,Di Preta,ecc,ecc) back to more 30s look,with large but not wide peaks lapels,double pleats trousers, moderate drape
(If you want an example of this style look to Gianni Agnelli).
Another exemple by Di Preta (Florence)
Posted 26 October 2009 - 08:14 AM
In this discussion involving Tommy Nutter, the other tailors openly acknowledge Nutter's influence but say the problem is that it is too easy to copy.
Posted 26 October 2009 - 12:03 PM
In 1967 in USA Ralph Lauren start to make wide ties.
In the same year in Italy tailors like Litrico and Brioni cut suits (double and single breasted) with wide peaks lapels.
Im sure that Tommy Nutter had a great influence,especialy in UK and France,but i think that the trend was global.
In the born of this style Nutter is not the only...guilty.
Posted 26 October 2009 - 12:18 PM
It also kept bespoke tailoring alive for a younger audience in a way that nobody is managing to do these days. So kids grow up without exposure to tailored clothing. In the past, kids went through the Nutter phase and grew up to wear more classical tailored styles as they matured. Now they grow up alienated from tailored clothing altogether.
Posted 26 October 2009 - 03:44 PM
In the end, I think he represents the last time Savile Row exerted a world wide influence on men's fashion. You may not like what he did, but you have to give him that much credit.
Posted 27 October 2009 - 01:16 AM
there is no doubt that the quality of the tailoring itself was very high
I don't speak about quality,but about taste.
I dont'like too the taste of Litrico,Brioni,Battistoni, suits in 70s
Instead i like very much the style of Huntsman,Anderson & Sheppard,Caraceni,Rubinacci in the same period.
Posted 18 November 2009 - 09:26 AM
In the first series of photos he wears a vintage 1970s reefer jacket from a long defunct Savile Row firm with typically dramatically wide 1970s lapels:
The shirt is by Holliday & Brown.
In the next photo, he is wearing a suit by English tailor John Pearse, with a Brioni shirt in pale celadon. The trench coat is Viktor & Rolf Monsieur. His tie is of a vintage silk. The Western hat is a vintage Resistol beaver hat. The glasses are French tortoise-shell from the 1950s. His grey and pink handkerchief is made of Irish linen. I'm not sure if anything here is specifically 1970s, although I am sure at least one thing there is a vintage 1970s item. The wide brimmed hat, certainly, is reminiscent in style to the sort of thing you see in a lot of 1970s images.
He also has a blog:
Posted 18 November 2009 - 10:19 AM
Or maybe their original possessor was a nostalgic of the 50s and early 60s.
If is so,well I agree with him.
Posted 18 November 2009 - 10:28 AM
The thing about Labelking is that he was born after the 1970s. Some of us have more difficulty in idealising the era because we were there. People who remember the 1950s also wonder why some people romanticise that era too. In the end, the 1970s will become a distant memory and it will be easier to romanticise it too. You can see that happening already. You can scream and object but nothing will change that course. And why should we not let it happen? It is just another decade from last millennium.
Posted 18 November 2009 - 10:47 AM
Even his room mate, Jack Klugman - who is supposed to be a complete slob - looks elegant in his sports jackets and his trench coat. He even wears a sports jacket and tie at home when playing cards with the boys. Also, if you see film footage of people flying on aeroplanes in the 1970s, you notice how most of the men wore coats and ties. Even "slobs" wore coats and ties. Compare that with the current decade.
Now who should be the subject of ridicule?
Posted 18 November 2009 - 06:37 PM
Posted 19 November 2009 - 03:38 PM
Here is a version of the greatcoat by Anthony Sinclair:
For more details on cutting this coat see this thread.
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