Matching lapel facings on DBs—Qs for the pros
Posted 29 October 2009 - 08:26 PM
I have seen belly put into a striped DB lapel four ways: (1) purely through ironing with stripes parallel to the edge for the full length; (2) cutting parallel to the stripe but with cutting used to add belly at the bottom, so that stripes are not parallel to the edge towards the bottom; (3) parallel to the stripe but with some cutting used at the top making the stripes there not parallel to the edge (adding more of an upward angle to the lapel at the top); and (4) a bit of 2 and 3 combined.
Is only 1 acceptable? If a lot of belly is required to give the lapels the desired degree of upward angle, aren’t there limits to the amount of curve/belly that can be achieved purely by ironing? Even if a lot of curve can be achieved solely with ironing, wouldn’t a great deal of curve look odd as opposed to some cutting leaving parts of the stripe at the top or bottom not strictly parallel with the lapel edge?
Posted 29 October 2009 - 08:47 PM
Posted 29 October 2009 - 09:01 PM
Posted 29 October 2009 - 09:55 PM
Posted 29 October 2009 - 11:59 PM
My hypothesis was that diagonal lines that are straight, or nearly straight, look more appealing than lines that curve up markedly. It would then follow that a deviation from keeping the lapel edge strictly parallel is balancing the desire to keep the stripes and the edge parallel with an aesthetic preference for a straight diagonal line.
That's the whole point. Sort of.
If the lapel were cut in a straight line, the shape of the chest would actually make it look a little hollow and anemic; by cutting the lapel with some belly, as it curves over the chest, it looks more straight. Shaping the facing edge into a curve so the lines do not cut off fools the eye into thinking the lapel edge is much more straight than it actually is- lines cutting off would attract attention, as they do in the example cited in the other thread. I have never come across a cloth that could not be worked into the required shape, and I am accustomed to using the most flimsy of Italian cloth.
Posted 20 February 2010 - 10:32 PM
and I am accustomed to using the most flimsy of Italian cloth.
Ouch. I sympathise.
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