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The DB Greatcoat


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#1 Sator

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Posted 13 November 2009 - 11:07 PM

Well, it doesn't get better than this folks. In this issue February, 1971 edition of The Cutter & Tailor I have found nothing less than a collaboration between the great Archibald Whife, their longtime chief technical editor and Anthony Sinclair, famous for having dressed Sean Connery in his James Bond days. I must confess that my jaw dropped when I saw it. Here it is, a pattern for a double breasted greatcoat:

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Close up of the Conduit Cut Greatcoat:

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#2 Sator

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Posted 05 March 2011 - 01:40 PM

Here is my realisation of this greatcoat pattern by Sinclair-Whife for Tailor & Cutter, 1971:

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All in all, it is fairly faithful to the original Conduit Cut Greatcoat, although I have made it a button-five coat - something I found useful when I got caught in a New York blizzard. The extra button at the bottom kept the draft out nicely. I also added a front dart (standard fish, no side body or other extra panels), and increased the slant of the side pockets.

The draft is generally an excellent one and I can recommend it highly. I must say that I wish that they had given us a collar pattern because this was quite tricky given that it has to work both with the top buttons undone as well as buttoned up to the top.

I am going to share some MTOC drafts and pictures that I found useful to study. First up is this Bridge Coat or Greatcoat for the Royal Navy:

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#3 Sator

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Posted 05 March 2011 - 01:54 PM

Royal Army Officer's Nr 1 Greatcoat:

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Also interesting is how the tailor of the pictured coat has finished the top of the inverted box pleat with a spat's head.

Note that there is a good draft for a Prussian collar here:

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This coat does not have a two way collar - it is cut and made up for the Prussian position.

#4 Sator

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Posted 05 March 2011 - 02:09 PM

The Royal Army Greatcoat - Alternative Model:

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#5 Sator

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Posted 05 March 2011 - 02:30 PM

Royal Air Force Officer's Greatcoat:

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Note the instructions on cutting the coat with pleats instead of the standard vent.

#6 Sator

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Posted 05 March 2011 - 02:47 PM

The next quite superb example comes from the workshop of Maurice Sedwell, and is the work of Mr Taub there:

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It is quite a display of imaginative cutting. Note that there is a yolk, a side body and double front darts.

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I suspect the double front darts are produced in the following manner:

Step one:

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Step two, enlarge the dart:

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Step three, split enlarged dart into two:

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The alternative would have been to increase the amount of displacement of the overpocket section, while keeping the actual front dart itself as small as possible (ie displacing point 56 to the left). However, this does increase the crookening effect of the overpocket section, and maybe he feels that the double darted front produces less distortion.

The gorge dart has further been displaced from its usual position on this type of coat so it is angled towards the nipple-line, rather than straight down the midline:

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Most of the previous examples have the gorge dart pointing straight downwards on the midline:

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The finished greatcoat:

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The pictures come from this thread.

#7 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 05 March 2011 - 02:51 PM

Just for fun, the last draft Sator gives above, in its original print, from the Tailor and Cutter, August 1, 1947.
Titled: Draft of the New Greatcoat for RAF Officers, by C.H. Newstead (Head Cutter Alkit LTD., London)

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Silly Cognoscenti, Drape is for windows!

#8 Sator

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Posted 05 March 2011 - 03:03 PM

Although this is cut for a female RAF officer, I found this photo to be useful because I like the way the lapels are cut with a bit of belly, the width of the lapels in proportion to the collar is just right and the height of the buttoning point is equally well calculated:

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#9 Sator

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Posted 05 March 2011 - 05:05 PM

Now for those of you who favour the Rundschau system, here is a 1960s West German army greatcoat, in a similar style (please keep in mind that West Germany was now a NATO ally of Britain). It comes from Der Zuschnitt, XVII. I actually like this collar and wished in retrospect that I had used it on my greatcoat:

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Although the British greatcoats are arguably more stylish in the way the lapels are shaped, the presence of the extended pleat down the centre back from top to hem is noteworthy. The way the back panel is shaped to accommodate the peats is also extremely impressive, in that this permits the back panel to be cut in one piece without a centre seam. The cloth is folded in half lengthways and the straight centre back edge of the pattern is placed right at the folded edge of the cloth.

An alternative overcoat with a fancy curved pocket and front dart is also given. This has a Prussian collar and is cut only to be worn buttoned to the top. The inset shows the Prussian collar which is not a two-way greatcoat collar.

A close up of the greatcoat pattern, collar and sleeve drafts:

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Lastly, a quick Google search suggested that service overcoat designs in the Federal armed forces (Bundeswehr) have moved on from this era. While it is important that civilians not wear official military uniforms, many types of older military designs have become fashionable such as the trench coat, duffel coat and British warm. However, those making coats for clients in central Europe should avoid cloths designs that are too steel grey like this more current service coat:

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Likewise, epaulettes might be avoided, although they are admittedly standard on trench coats.

#10 Sator

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Posted 05 March 2011 - 05:45 PM

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Translation for Rundschau greatcoat collar draft:

h1- extension of roll line
h1-k = back neck + 1cm
k- square out from this point
k-k1 = collar crease line
k1-k2 = base of collar
k2-k3 = back width [note typo in original text]
k4- front width

#11 Sator

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Posted 05 March 2011 - 07:19 PM

From an earlier (circa 1930s era) Bridgland-edited MTOC. The section on military uniforms was written by Percival Thickett. It is a RAF greatcoat design with a full belt:

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#12 Sator

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Posted 05 March 2011 - 08:37 PM

Mercantile marine officer's greatcoat from T&C May 15, 1942:

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Note the bellied lapel with an extra centre front dart at waistline.

Coseup of pattern:

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#13 Sator

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Posted 05 March 2011 - 09:40 PM

The US officer's greatcoat. Published in T&C, June 19, 1942. Obviously a lot of American officers stationed in the UK used the favourable exchange rate to have uniforms made up by London tailors:

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#14 Sator

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Posted 05 March 2011 - 09:57 PM

The American army officer's greatcoat. From T&C October 16, 1942:

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#15 Sator

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Posted 05 March 2011 - 10:18 PM

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#16 Sator

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Posted 05 March 2011 - 10:27 PM

A RAF officer's great in a pattern by R. Noel Allen:

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#17 Sator

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Posted 05 March 2011 - 11:50 PM

Just for fun, the last draft Sator gives above, in its original print, from the Tailor and Cutter, August 1, 1947.
Titled: Draft of the New Greatcoat for RAF Officers, by C.H. Newstead (Head Cutter Alkit LTD., London)


Excellent and I'll raise you an original print issue of the alternative RAF officer's greatcoat:

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#18 Sator

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Posted 06 March 2011 - 01:48 AM

Another greatcoat collar draft:

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Taken from the thread on ladies' versions of the greatcoat:

http://www.cutterand...?showtopic=2076




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