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Not Every Man an Adonis


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#1 Sator

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Posted 27 November 2009 - 12:38 AM

Not every man was born an Adonis. Still, that doesn't mean a well tailored coat can't look superlative on him. Here is fine reminder of this.

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Gustav Mahler (1860-1911): "Tradition ist die Weitergabe des Feuers und nicht die Anbetung der Asche."

"Tradition is about passing on the flame, and not the worshipping of ashes"

#2 greger

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Posted 27 November 2009 - 01:09 PM

I think the button stance would be better lower. The jacket could be longer, too. The tailoring distracts from the persons figure.

Any other thoughts?

#3 jukes

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Posted 27 November 2009 - 06:10 PM

I would say this guy is small, in my opinion to lengthen the jacket would make him look shorter. I would raise the side pockets a bit to make the jacket proportionate to the figure.

#4 jukes

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Posted 27 November 2009 - 06:11 PM

Just seen the breast pocket, any higher and it will be on his shoulder.

#5 Kate XXXXXX

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Posted 27 November 2009 - 10:41 PM

Not English, I'd guess... French, maybe?

I must say I have enjoyed all the 60's and 70's things being posted. I may not always like the styles (a matter of personal preference, and some items are beautiful), but it was good to see some older and unretouched faces, even though some of the tailoring details had been rather heavily retouched.

#6 jefferyd

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Posted 27 November 2009 - 11:52 PM

Not English, I'd guess... French, maybe?

I'm guessing German- there's a roundness to it, particularly in the shoulder and sleeve which seems very German to me. Plus, it's very clean.

#7 Sator

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Posted 28 November 2009 - 06:55 AM

I'm guessing German- there's a roundness to it, particularly in the shoulder and sleeve which seems very German to me. Plus, it's very clean.


Correct. It's German, from das Schneiderhandwerk, February 1963. The tailor is Günter Ulrich, Berlin. The caption says "a city suit to button three". The extremely clean style with a shorter skirt is also a 1960s style feature, rather than just being a regional characteristic.
Gustav Mahler (1860-1911): "Tradition ist die Weitergabe des Feuers und nicht die Anbetung der Asche."

"Tradition is about passing on the flame, and not the worshipping of ashes"

#8 greger

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Posted 28 November 2009 - 02:32 PM

Just seen the breast pocket, any higher and it will be on his shoulder.



The distance between the breast and hip pockets seem to elongate, but over all it seems not to work.

#9 Schneidergott

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Posted 28 November 2009 - 03:59 PM

Correct. It's German, from das Schneiderhandwerk, February 1963. The tailor is Günter Ulrich, Berlin. The caption says "a city suit to button three". The extremely clean style with a shorter skirt is also a 1960s style feature, rather than just being a regional characteristic.


Is he from East Berlin? I think I spotted the back of an old DKW (definitely a West German car) in the background on the right.

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Apart from that he has the stature of the average (German?) tailor of those days, rather stout.
The pockets are a bit too slanted for my taste, and I was told that a button 2 with it's longer lapels "stretch" the wearer visually! I would never suggest a button 3 to a man with this stature! But: Elk sîn Möge!

Edited by Schneidergott, 28 November 2009 - 04:07 PM.

"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

"Es gibt keinen Grund mit Erfahrung zu prahlen, denn man kann etwas auch viele Jahre falsch machen!"
"There is no reason to boast of your experience, because it's possible to do things wrong for a long time!"


#10 Sator

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Posted 28 November 2009 - 09:55 PM

I actually rather like the button three. Remember that button twos were considered a bit unusual and fashion forward back in those days. It wasn't until the 1970s that they became more widely acceptable. I also like the use of low pockets, high chest welt and slanted pockets to try to elongate a stout figure.
Gustav Mahler (1860-1911): "Tradition ist die Weitergabe des Feuers und nicht die Anbetung der Asche."

"Tradition is about passing on the flame, and not the worshipping of ashes"

#11 Sator

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Posted 09 December 2009 - 10:25 AM

Another fine suit on a man who is hardly an Adonis:

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Notice that it is a very typical 1960s button-two - cut like a button-three except with the bottom button omitted.
Gustav Mahler (1860-1911): "Tradition ist die Weitergabe des Feuers und nicht die Anbetung der Asche."

"Tradition is about passing on the flame, and not the worshipping of ashes"

#12 Sator

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Posted 26 December 2009 - 10:36 PM

Here is Leo Neubert of Nuremberg, a prize winning tailor in 1963/4. He is hardly an Adonis of a perfect and proportionate figure, but looks very good in his clothes:

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Gustav Mahler (1860-1911): "Tradition ist die Weitergabe des Feuers und nicht die Anbetung der Asche."

"Tradition is about passing on the flame, and not the worshipping of ashes"

#13 Sator

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Posted 01 January 2010 - 07:36 PM

Posted Image
Gustav Mahler (1860-1911): "Tradition ist die Weitergabe des Feuers und nicht die Anbetung der Asche."

"Tradition is about passing on the flame, and not the worshipping of ashes"

#14 Sator

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Posted 01 January 2010 - 07:53 PM

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Gustav Mahler (1860-1911): "Tradition ist die Weitergabe des Feuers und nicht die Anbetung der Asche."

"Tradition is about passing on the flame, and not the worshipping of ashes"

#15 Sator

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Posted 01 January 2010 - 08:37 PM

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Gustav Mahler (1860-1911): "Tradition ist die Weitergabe des Feuers und nicht die Anbetung der Asche."

"Tradition is about passing on the flame, and not the worshipping of ashes"

#16 Sator

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Posted 01 January 2010 - 08:48 PM

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Gustav Mahler (1860-1911): "Tradition ist die Weitergabe des Feuers und nicht die Anbetung der Asche."

"Tradition is about passing on the flame, and not the worshipping of ashes"

#17 Sator

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Posted 11 January 2010 - 11:05 AM

Another example of a well executed corpulent cut (ASZ June 1963):

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Gustav Mahler (1860-1911): "Tradition ist die Weitergabe des Feuers und nicht die Anbetung der Asche."

"Tradition is about passing on the flame, and not the worshipping of ashes"

#18 Sator

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Posted 11 January 2010 - 11:16 AM

A couple of more well executed corpulent cuts (ASZ June 1963) from Gintar, Munich and Jusa, Regensburg respectively:

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Gustav Mahler (1860-1911): "Tradition ist die Weitergabe des Feuers und nicht die Anbetung der Asche."

"Tradition is about passing on the flame, and not the worshipping of ashes"




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