35 replies to this topic

[Sator]

Not every man was born an Adonis. Still, that doesn't mean a well tailored coat can't look superlative on him. Here is fine reminder of this.

[greger]

I think the button stance would be better lower. The jacket could be longer, too. The tailoring distracts from the persons figure.

Any other thoughts?

[jukes]

I would say this guy is small, in my opinion to lengthen the jacket would make him look shorter. I would raise the side pockets a bit to make the jacket proportionate to the figure.

[jukes]

Just seen the breast pocket, any higher and it will be on his shoulder.

[Kate XXXXXX]

Not English, I'd guess... French, maybe?

I must say I have enjoyed all the 60's and 70's things being posted. I may not always like the styles (a matter of personal preference, and some items are beautiful), but it was good to see some older and unretouched faces, even though some of the tailoring details had been rather heavily retouched.

[jefferyd]

Not English, I'd guess... French, maybe?

I'm guessing German- there's a roundness to it, particularly in the shoulder and sleeve which seems very German to me. Plus, it's very clean.

[Sator]

I'm guessing German- there's a roundness to it, particularly in the shoulder and sleeve which seems very German to me. Plus, it's very clean.

Correct. It's German, from das Schneiderhandwerk, February 1963. The tailor is Günter Ulrich, Berlin. The caption says "a city suit to button three". The extremely clean style with a shorter skirt is also a 1960s style feature, rather than just being a regional characteristic.

[greger]

Just seen the breast pocket, any higher and it will be on his shoulder.

The distance between the breast and hip pockets seem to elongate, but over all it seems not to work.

[Schneidergott]

Correct. It's German, from das Schneiderhandwerk, February 1963. The tailor is Günter Ulrich, Berlin. The caption says "a city suit to button three". The extremely clean style with a shorter skirt is also a 1960s style feature, rather than just being a regional characteristic.

Is he from East Berlin? I think I spotted the back of an old DKW (definitely a West German car) in the background on the right.



Apart from that he has the stature of the average (German?) tailor of those days, rather stout.
The pockets are a bit too slanted for my taste, and I was told that a button 2 with it's longer lapels "stretch" the wearer visually! I would never suggest a button 3 to a man with this stature! But: Elk sîn Möge!

Edited by Schneidergott, 28 November 2009 - 04:07 PM.

[Sator]

I actually rather like the button three. Remember that button twos were considered a bit unusual and fashion forward back in those days. It wasn't until the 1970s that they became more widely acceptable. I also like the use of low pockets, high chest welt and slanted pockets to try to elongate a stout figure.

[Sator]

Another fine suit on a man who is hardly an Adonis:



Notice that it is a very typical 1960s button-two - cut like a button-three except with the bottom button omitted.

[Sator]

Here is Leo Neubert of Nuremberg, a prize winning tailor in 1963/4. He is hardly an Adonis of a perfect and proportionate figure, but looks very good in his clothes:

[Sator]

[Sator]

[Sator]

[Sator]

[Sator]

Another example of a well executed corpulent cut (ASZ June 1963):

[Sator]

A couple of more well executed corpulent cuts (ASZ June 1963) from Gintar, Munich and Jusa, Regensburg respectively: