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Not Every Man an Adonis


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#19 Sator

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Posted 18 January 2010 - 06:24 PM

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#20 Schneidergott

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Posted 23 January 2010 - 03:40 AM

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"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#21 Todd Hudson

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Posted 11 March 2010 - 08:22 PM

Great tenors donít go on diets: they know great tailors! According to his dossier, Beniamino Gigli was a tailorís apprentice when he was 10.

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#22 jukes

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Posted 12 March 2010 - 06:10 AM

Great tenors donít go on diets: they know great tailors! According to his dossier, Beniamino Gigli was a tailorís apprentice when he was 10. Posted Image


Wow, well cut and made. No airbrushing to make this look good, superb

#23 Todd Hudson

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Posted 12 March 2010 - 06:40 AM

I agree "superb" is the word. I have such a crush on this cut! I always tell my clients, it doesn't matter how big or small or short or tall you are, if you wear a suit that does not pull wrinkles in the wrong directions, you will look great. Yes we all know that there are so many baggy suits walking around on little men and they come into our shops and we fit them a bit and they look good and trendy. The average or small client is not hard to make look good and trendily fitted. But BIG men must always wear fitted suits because any excess of ease is too much to look at. The cloth should just skim the flesh like a elegant silhouette you create with cloth snugly draped over his real flesh. They still may need shoulder pads, and you still have to get your pattern over possibly multiple stomach folds, but when it's done right, he will be as beautiful as a tenor. You can use some of those fitting/draping skills to fit your average man who also wants the snug fit but the pattern looks totally different.

BTW, Gigli was never short on attention from women. Seems that he was a sort of Italian Screaming Jay Hawkins with more children than can be counted.

Thanks to Sator for starting this thread on big and beautiful men. Some pictures of larger framed women would be nice to look at as well but I have not searched yet.

#24 jcsprowls

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Posted 12 March 2010 - 07:51 AM

But BIG men must always wear fitted suits because any excess of ease is too much to look at. The cloth should just skim the flesh like a elegant silhouette you create with cloth snugly draped over his real flesh.

Spot on! Sadly, the overwhelming majority of large men shop in budget categories. It really gives RTW a bad rap.

Speaking of archaic drafting (and, the reason I disagree with proportional measures). An alterations tailor for a big mens' specialty store tells me he re-cuts nearly all trousers. His formula for calculating the forks of the trouser sent me over the edge. He believes that everyone's 'thru' measurement is 1/3 the hip circumference. I showed him differently with a drafting square on a live model. And, yet, he still insisted his method was superior.
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#25 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 12 March 2010 - 09:40 AM

What a suit, excellent. Not easy to produce.
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#26 Nishijin

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Posted 12 March 2010 - 09:59 PM

Wow, well cut and made. No airbrushing to make this look good, superb


Gentlemen, please take in consideration that this disc cover is a drawing/painting, and not a photograph. I certainly believe the "real" suit was very good, but painting is does not garantee high fidelity. There could be "airbrushing" :pardon:


Edit :
I would be very interested indeed by any tips on how to cut and make a pocket that does not bulge (or very slightly do so) when shoving one's hand in it, as we can see on this picture. I do believe that the suit was made so, and there is only slight exageration from the painter (the hand seems do be spirited away by the pocket, which is too much, but it is clear to me that the pocket wall really well made "in real life").

Edited by Nishijin, 12 March 2010 - 10:02 PM.

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#27 Sator

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Posted 22 March 2010 - 07:09 PM

I found this shot in the March 10th 1960 edition of Allgemeine Schneiderzeitung and had to share it:

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#28 Sator

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Posted 22 March 2010 - 08:23 PM

Another fine photo from the October 10th 1961 issue of ASZ:

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#29 Sator

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Posted 22 March 2010 - 08:55 PM

Gentlemen, please take in consideration that this disc cover is a drawing/painting, and not a photograph.


Looking at the picture of Gigli again, it occurred to me that it is probably a B&W photograph that has been hand coloured.

#30 Sator

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Posted 26 April 2010 - 11:18 PM

Here is something from ASZ Augst 16, 1962. It was the winner of the coveted Dandy prize at a Tailor & Cutter exhibition - the highest of all the awards given out:

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It is about as stylish an example of a corpulent cut as I can ever recall seeing. It was made by C.L. Ostling of Albemerke St, London. The cloth is a navy blue white chalk stripes. I love the tie pin, watch chain and boutonniŤre.

#31 Kevin Koch

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Posted 06 May 2010 - 02:11 AM

It is about as stylish an example of a corpulent cut as I can ever recall seeing. It was made by C.L. Ostling of Albemerke St, London. The cloth is a navy blue white chalk stripes. I love the tie pin, watch chain and boutonniŤre.


Excellent example. I am surprised to see the dbl breasted waistcoat. Even when the length is correct, the stout cut vests (waistcoats) always look a little too short to my eye, accenting the horizontal. Would adding a little length help or hurt the illusion in your opinion? That's why I asked for pics of stout vests in another post...
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#32 Sator

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Posted 06 May 2010 - 07:40 AM

Most people who are stout are also usually short legged. Shortening the W-C helps to give the illusion of longer legs. The above example also has points at the bottom of the W-C, and this avoids the widening effect that results from a W-C with the front hem cut straight across horizontally. A stout or corpulent figure is best guided to wear brace trousers rather than belt trousers - tends to be cut with a higher rise so waistband is above the belly, tends to fall down less, no need for a constricting belt. This naturally makes it easier to cut a shorter W-C.

#33 Sator

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Posted 15 June 2010 - 08:39 PM

From DSHW December, 1966:

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#34 Sator

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Posted 17 September 2011 - 02:45 PM

Now here is what I call corpulent - and I really mean, corpulent!

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Is it just me that thinks of:

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When figures like these walk into a tailor's store, everyone rushes out to be nice to him because they know you only need to make him one good suit and he will be a devoted client for life. Nor is there much chance of him "going back to wearing RTW" for obvious reasons.

#35 Zandercook

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Posted 23 August 2012 - 03:03 AM

I did an illustration project last year called "Another Kind of Beauty", which is basically the topic of this thread. I'd like to show you Prince Aly Khan:

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#36 Schneidergott

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Posted 23 August 2012 - 07:09 AM

A couple of images from the mid 70's:

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"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.





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