Posted 28 April 2009 - 12:23 PM
Posted 01 May 2009 - 08:46 AM
I measure C.F, C.B and C left and C right lengths with the led piece standing on the floor and measure the distance from the floor towards the waist ( the client has a piece of elastic around the waist)
Posted 01 May 2009 - 11:00 AM
For crutch depth, I'm a little indelicate. But, I'm also extremely successful with pants. What I do is slide the L-square through the legs, ask the model/customer to adjust so the short arm is at a comfortable height, adjust the square so it's perpendicular to the floor, then take the measurement at the BK waist. Take care to remember to subtract the width of the arm, else you overstate the crutch depth.
I also mentally take note of the trunk width (drill imaginary line into navel and thru to spine) by glancing the number directly beneath the belly on the short arm of the square. If I doubt myself, I'll grab the 18" C-Thru ruler and "scootch" it up against the fullest part of the abdomen so it intersects a value on the short arm, again, subtracting the width of the long arm.
I've never been a fan of proportional measurement when it comes to locating the trunk divisions along the hipline in the draft. It only seems to hold true for the proportionate body.
A couple other areas I use the L-square directly on the model/customer is the underarm inseam and to check the depth/angle of the shoulders along the spine. When I locate shoulder points on base/close-fitting garments, I set the ends of the arms on the shoulder points and then measure down the spine from C7 (i.e. the cervicale).
Dir, Product Development
Posted 02 May 2009 - 01:12 AM
Posted 05 May 2009 - 12:47 AM
Here is some guidance from Poulin on fitting the skirt:
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