Are you walking the sewing line from the cuff to the crutch? If so, the back seam length should be about 5/8" longer than the front seam length. One possibility for the discrepancy is a jump seam. The back may have a 3/4" seam allowance; and, the front a 3/8" seam allowance. I'd rule that out before having a conversation with the patternmaker.
Also: is this pattern for a plaid? If so, the ease will need to be placed a little more vigorously toward the fork - within 8" - so the plaid matches around the leg in the visible areas.
My opinion, though, is this: if the pattern is wrong, reject the work. It's an indicator of systemic problems yet to come. I used to do overflow sewing for several factories. And, I've had such aggita and drama over bad patterns, poor information and horrific cutting/bundling that I am highly disinterested by the prospect.
RE: the draft. I understand how a seam length error occurs in that specific area. But... a draft needs to be audited, checked, adjusted and trued before it's ready for the sample stitcher. If they haven't done that - or, haven't done it properly - that infers some serious process problems.
I'm all for helping the next person to improve if they genuinely want to. But, I'm not going to force it down their throat or waste time on non-paying jobs. If you have a proven pattern for reference, use that to demonstrate how seams are walked and where ease is placed. It should never take more than 15 minutes to help someone to improve themself. Longer than 15 minutes is a training session, which should be billed for (IMO).
FWIW: I do not accept any outside work (e.g. cut bundles, patterns, etc.) until I have audited the pattern, the sketch, the fabric and some sort of technical documentation. Anyone who poo-poos those requirements was never meant to be my customer.
Edited by jcsprowls, 16 December 2009 - 04:58 AM.