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The Art of Making Buttonholes


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#19 fabeca

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Posted 14 April 2010 - 02:31 AM

Hello sator thank you for this article. I have a question, does anyone knows if exist a die cutter or puncher to do a perfect buttonhole.
I have seen in some videos that some tailor shops use a punch with a hammer to do a hole, so I wondering if there is such a thing so I can avoid using the scissors, and where I can buy one.

#20 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 14 April 2010 - 02:43 AM

Yes, you can buy a 3 or 4 mm punch like these

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for about 5 or 6 euros/ dollars/ pounds from most hardware stores
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#21 fabeca

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Posted 14 April 2010 - 11:05 AM

And any web page can I order them?

Regard

#22 Gecuba

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Posted 23 December 2010 - 05:39 AM

And any web page can I order them?

Buttonhole cutter set

Edited by Gecuba, 23 December 2010 - 07:44 AM.

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#23 Lee5150

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 08:11 AM

Hello guys,

I have been trying, for about a week, to make buttonholes this way. I read this article and understood the procedure but the execution is so much harder!

How far, would you say, do you bring your needle in the from raw edge? 0.5mm? 1mm? Less, more? Then there's how far apart each stitch is, how tight the stitches are!

It really is an art! And a very difficult one at that.

Other than 'practice, practice, practice', do you have any tips for the beginner?

Lee
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#24 Schneidergott

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 06:57 PM

Other than 'practice, practice, practice', do you have any tips for the beginner?


Not really! The only advice would be to start with a thicker (silk) thread and a more flannel type fabric. Don't use polyester thread on a cotton gabardine.


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"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#25 Lee5150

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 11:07 PM

Thanks for that! How deep into the raw edge do you usually stitch? I've been trying for a week but they don't resemble the look of a buttonhole.

I've started again and I'm now just stitching straight lines along the edge of the fabric but I'm not too sure how tight to pull the thread.

I am using gutermann silk and agreman gimp.

Where would I find thicker silk thread?

#26 gramountoto

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 11:30 PM

The use of colorless nail polish is very helpful to prevent the fabric from fraying. If I understand your previous post I would say that 1mm is too close from the raw edge (try 2-3mm), but I let the pro answer...

#27 napoli

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Posted 27 November 2012 - 06:17 AM

What thread do you use for that on shirts? Calibre 30 or 50 in cotton?

#28 ladhrann

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Posted 27 November 2012 - 09:45 AM

Thanks for that! How deep into the raw edge do you usually stitch? I've been trying for a week but they don't resemble the look of a buttonhole.

I've started again and I'm now just stitching straight lines along the edge of the fabric but I'm not too sure how tight to pull the thread.

I am using gutermann silk and agreman gimp.

Where would I find thicker silk thread?


Goodrich Bespoke has a post on making buttonholes here:
http://goodrichbespo...appy-place.html

Jeffrey Diduch has a video here:
http://tuttofattoama...oles-video.html


For thicker silk thread, what Gutermann are you using? Their buttonhole twist is R753. I have some Seta Bozzolo 24wt in colours that'll never be used so if you'd like to try a spool send me your address.
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#29 napoli

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 05:34 AM

I have found this buttonhole regulable scissors on internet, are ok?

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#30 Schneidergott

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 06:03 AM

Such scissors are ok, but if you punch a hole first where the button will go you can use any other pair of sharp pointed scissors. Also, the gap in the blades limits the distance of the start of a cut from an edge.
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"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

http://www.dressedwell.net/ It's snarky, but fun.


#31 napoli

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 11:45 AM

Such scissors are ok, but if you punch a hole first where the button will go you can use any other pair of sharp pointed scissors. Also, the gap in the blades limits the distance of the start of a cut from an edge.


But if the shirt buttonholes are always at 2cm from the edge...

#32 Der Zuschneider

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 01:12 PM

For the shirts the scissor is OK.
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#33 napoli

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Posted 24 February 2013 - 05:07 AM

I have seen on a forum some guy doing this borders to bulk the shirt buttonholes.


Opinions?

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#34 posaune

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Posted 24 February 2013 - 07:43 PM

I found that chisels work best
http://www.nancysnot...er 3 pc set.do.
I have some in different width from a hard ware shop. They are used by carpenters.
I get a very clean cut and the hole will not fray so easily. If I ever do a hand made button hole, I prestitch with the machine.
Now nail me to the cross!:-)
lg
Posaune
I think the german expression: ein Knopfloch schlagen (Means maybe (not sure about the verb) knock in or bash in the buttonhole) originates from using this tool.

#35 J. Maclochlainn

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Posted 24 February 2013 - 11:33 PM

Napoli, this is the method I have seen used in several old books in their section on shirt making. Just practice and it will get better each time. Perhaps move the barring a little closer to the cuts.
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#36 napoli

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Posted 25 February 2013 - 02:08 AM

Napoli, this is the method I have seen used in several old books in their section on shirt making. Just practice and it will get better each time. Perhaps move the barring a little closer to the cuts.



My mother who is 72 teached me to do them but without the border that is like are done on Naples.

This way with the border is more like a jacketīs way right?

I will try tonight to see how it gets.

Cheers




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