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No Costume Tailoring Please


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#1 Sator

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Posted 27 December 2009 - 05:14 PM

I am imposing a STRICT ban on all costume tailoring. Like all forums, this one has its identity and its focus of interest. This is strictly a site dedicated to professional grade modern fashion tailored garments.

It is appreciated that theatrical tailoring for the theatre, opera, ballet or film is an important and wonderful art form, as is dressmaking. However, every forum needs to maintain its unique identity, and it would dilute the brand too much if the forum were left wide open to discussion of these related disciplines. More problematically, it would leave the back door open to non-theatrical subcultural costume tailoring.

Most importantly Steam Punk, Nazi, Fantasy Enactment, Halloween, Teddy Boys, Goth, BDSM, vampire, cosplay, Elvis impersonator, or circus costumes of any kind do not belong in this forum. Likewise, costume for period re-enactments whether for the Napoleonic Wars, the American Civil War, or other war enactments do not belong here. This forum is devoted solely to elegant professional grade fashion tailoring.

That is, this forum is meant for this:

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And not for this:

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If you look at the contents of any Tailor & Cutter journal, which is one of the inspirations for the forum, everything is about professional grade fashion tailoring, with the amount of period costume material non-existent - and, it is fair that this is what the forum focus should be as well.

Naturally, the past remains a great source of inspiration. Any retrospectives of dress periods still of relevance to contemporary fashion eg 1930s (eg Film Noir), 1960s (eg Mad Men), 1970s or even Edwardian styles are naturally as welcome as they ever were. Discussion of older tailoring techniques that may be of contemporary relevance is still interesting and encouraged. Also, discussion of history in a way that illuminates modern dress and how we came to dress a we do today is also relevant to the forum. Of course, discussion of garments traditionally made by tailors such as those for the clergy, formal equestrian events, livery uniforms (for drivers, chauffeurs etc), and formal military or police uniforms remain highly welcome.

#2 Sator

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Posted 31 December 2009 - 12:39 AM

Please note the following amendment to the forum guidelines (in italics):

Focus of Interest

No discussions that deviate way off the main forum focus of interest, eg those that involve politics, religion, current affairs etc. Discussion that deviates excessively into general discussion may be locked or deleted. Non-tailoring sewing topics such as quilting, curtain making are outside of the scope of the forum. Likewise, discussion of costume that is not relevant to elegant, contemporary high-class tailored fashion such as fancy dress costume, non-tailored theatrical costume, and subcultural costumes (Goth, Steam Punk, Teddy Boys) is considered outside the scope of the forum. Discussion of historically inspired tailored styles is welcome as long as that it is elegant, of high-end workmanship and relevant to a modern setting. Please note that the Cutter and Tailor Forum is not a period re-enactment costume forum. Styles that significantly cross the bridge from historically inspired modern style into pure period re-enactment costume wearable only in period settings (theatre, film, period re-enactments) will be regarded as being off topic.


You can still discuss how to cut a chauffeur's uniform, police or military dress uniforms, or formal equestrian attire as many of these styles are still worn. Also any historical or historically inspired style that has enough contemporary relevance to look elegant and wearable today remains extremely welcome. However, at a certain point things cross from being historically inspired over into pure period costume, and it is at this point that discussion is then deemed off-topic, and beyond the scope of the forum.

For example, if someone were entrusted with designing police or military uniforms and wanted to discuss using period inspirations to create the modern version, that would be perfectly fine eg a cavalry uniform for modern military parade dress based on the history of cavalry uniforms in the 19th century. Perfectly fine, perfectly modern - and definitely not period costume.

#3 Sator

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Posted 31 August 2010 - 12:32 AM

On a related note:

No Body Coat Threads by Novices

Complete beginners should not try to start their learning journey with body coats (such as tailcoats and frock coats). In fact, this tends to annoy members here because it shows a complete lack of insight into how terribly difficult this is, which in turn reflects a naive lack of respect for the Art of Tailoring. Novices are strictly forbidden from starting threads seeking advice on how to first learn professional tailoring methods by starting with body coats. This is important because most novices who come here seeking to learn to made a body coat, come from some sort of costume background (especially Steam Punk), and regard the making of fully professional body coat as something frivolous, in a way that shows a lack of respect for the Art of Tailoring and its traditions. Threads that disregard this rule may be locked or deleted.

This is no different to what would happen in a real apprenticeship. It is to encourage beginners to start with the basics and gradually build up.




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