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Business Wardrobe Basics


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#1 Sator

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Posted 03 May 2009 - 11:59 PM

Here is what I think a business woman's wardrobe basics are. Now, I do not profess to be a guru, nor expert as my main goal is to start a dialogue.

1. Lounge Suit (Business Suit in American English)
I think that lounges for business need not be charcoal, or dark navy as with men's lounges, and black shows a total lack of imagination. Women today entomb themselves in black like Queen Victoria, perhaps hoping to look slimmer - she needed it. However, the first thing I would say is that correct fit will do more than any particular colour for making a woman look slimmer. In the absence of being able to use excellence of fit, in a way that enhances the natural assets of a particular figure, often the only thing women today have left to resort to is to fall back on the use of copious amounts of black. Better fit (preferably quality bespoke) should free a woman from entombment in black. Use this to your benefit. Try colours that flatter your complexion. Try French navy, pearl grey, taupe or greige (a mixture of light grey and beige giving a light brownish grey). Women are allowed a greater variety in the cut of the coat. Use this to advantage too.

One prejudice I come across again and again is "I always look bad in navy/grey". Usually this is a prelude to justifying choosing black for everything. There is always a shade of navy/dark blue and grey you will good in.

Remember, that a suit with a skirt is always more formal than one with trousers. Again, a suitably cut skirt will make you look a slender or even more slender than trousers. Don't default to trousers with the incorrect idea that they are more slimming. Usually, this prejudice is the result of the fact that skirts come in a greater variety of styles than trousers, making it easier to make a mistake. However, do not let this lead you to avoid skirts. Order your coats to be made up with a skirt as well as trousers.

2. Shoes
Get yourself a pair of medium heeled black calf leather pumps. High heels destroy your feet. Reserve them for occasional wear, and choose medium heel pumps instead. Finding a really elegant pair that fulfill these criteria can be surprisingly hard. Consider going bespoke. If you have feet that are gnarled and mishapen from wearing fashion high heels then bespoke may be your only salvation. Remember, bespoke means high elegance not orthopoedic.

3. Scarf
Yes, get yourself a collection of scarves, whether Hermes or otherwise. You always look more dressed that way. Otherwise, for more important business meeting a plain pearl necklace always looks classical.

#2 Sator

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Posted 04 May 2009 - 12:55 AM

Women are allowed a greater variety in the cut of the coat. Use this to advantage


Let me illustrate what I have said.

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#3 Schneidergott

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Posted 04 May 2009 - 05:40 AM

With women's wear we face several problems:

1) Designers are restricted by what I call the "number people", accountants who have more influence on a fashion line than necessary. Thing is, every single step in the production costs money, so the simpler and faster a garment can be made, the better. Same can be said about the development process. Once they have a basic cut, only minor alterations are made. That's why fashion is so boring.
I have some old sewing magazines from the 30's for women and it's amazing to see the variety of cuts shown in one edition alone. When you buy a sewing magazine today you'll find basically the same cut reproduced with different fabrics.

2) Women's bodies have changed (just like men's), one is hard pressed to find the hour-glass shaped woman depicted in the fashion drawings.

3) The label hype, which you already mentioned. A T-shirt from a premium label has become more expensive than a good jacket of a no name brand, and so forth.

4) People have become lazy and careless. As a result, with so many badly dressed people around, men and women alike, every well dressed person will stick out of the masses and may become a target.

5) Restricted access to good clothing for those who don't have the money to pay for it. Only things they can buy are cheaply and in most cases badly made clothes, which have been designed to "fit" any women from german size 38 to 42( similar to the drape cut Big Grin.gif ).
Needless to mention the lack of good materials.

In order to provide some ideas:



For more of this go here: http://www.mediafire...d502d57ac7a1cd2

You'll find fashion plates for autumn/ winter (french origin, I think), from the mid 50's.

Enjoy.

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#4 Sator

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Posted 04 May 2009 - 09:51 AM

Restricted access to good clothing for those who don't have the money to pay for it.

http://www.mediafire...d502d57ac7a1cd2

You'll find fashion plates for autumn/ winter (french origin, I think), from the mid 50's.


Those fashion plates were spectacular.

I read a statistic that since the 1950s, the number of haute couture dresses being made has gone down dramatically, with current production being less than halved. It is even more difficult for women to find a tailor willing to do women's tailoring in their local areas.

Even the ultra rich have been successfully brainwashed into wearing "labels", whereas previously they refused to touch well known RTW labels as being insufficiently exclusive - ie too "common". Likewise, makers who also stooped to making a prêt-à-porter became instantly tarnished. I have read that women today who do go to a couturier will often refuse to touch any style that has been exhibited at a fashion show (ie turned to fodder for the masses).

#5 Sator

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Posted 04 May 2009 - 05:46 PM

I liked these lounge suits:







#6 Sator

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Posted 04 May 2009 - 06:12 PM

A couple more:









#7 Sator

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Posted 04 May 2009 - 06:58 PM

A couple examples of women's tailored garments in the flesh:







#8 Sator

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Posted 04 May 2009 - 07:49 PM

And a few more classical tailored styles for women:







#9 Schneidergott

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Posted 05 May 2009 - 02:58 AM

Well, call me old fashioned, but most women look better in skirts and dresses than in trousers and some cheap T-shirt.
A skirt looks flattering especially on the stronger built women, since it covers the problematic areas better than trousers.

I'd say a set of well fitting skirts and coats/ jackets plus a nice variation of blouses is absolutely sufficient to be well dressed for any kind of job. If you go for bespoke, you might even consider a nice vest.

Seriously, ladies, if you want us guys to turn our heads, wear skirts or nice dresses, just showing a touch of naked skin. drool.gif
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"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

 


#10 Sator

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Posted 14 May 2009 - 01:15 PM

Women's bodies have changed (just like men's), one is hard pressed to find the hour-glass shaped woman depicted in the fashion drawings.


This statement really stuck in my memory. I've been thinking about it a bit actually.

I tend to think that women with hourglass figures are still out there. However, they seem to be oblivious to the fact that most men find this type of more curvaceous figure far more attractive than the anorexic look that is forced on us today. So instead of confidently showing off her curves, such women tend to hide them by wearing clothes that force them to look thin and flat. Even if a woman looked for clothes to make the most of her hourglass shape, she would find it difficult - unless she was into vintage fashion.

The ideal shape of men and women's figures always changes with fashion. It also strikes me that the reason drape cut coats were popular amongst men in the 1930-50s was because, in an age where slim men were common, it was considered bad to look 'skinny'. Drape helps make it look like a man has put on weight. These days men don't need this help.

#11 Hanna

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Posted 15 June 2009 - 05:50 AM

We are still out here!

I agree that skirts are better than trousers, although I do have some trouser suits, not that they're worn often. I'd also agree that showing. I'd also agree that heads do turn when one wears clothes cut to show off an hourglass figure!

However, you will not see me in heels less than 3", usually 4". I know they're no good for me but I'm yet to find lower heels I'm happy with, especially as I have big feet. I'll be looking into bespoke when funds allow. For now I just make sure they fit properly.
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#12 Schneidergott

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Posted 28 June 2009 - 03:14 AM

How about these?





Just for inspiration...
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"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

 


#13 Schneidergott

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Posted 28 June 2009 - 03:17 AM

Or this one:



You could use a darker and more sober cloth (if you must...)!

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"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

 


#14 Sator

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Posted 28 June 2009 - 08:17 PM

Here's something that is a bit unusual, the undercoat, overcoat and skirt all match:



#15 Sator

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Posted 28 June 2009 - 08:22 PM

How about these?

Posted Image


I like them all. The inset in the overcoat pocket matching the suit is stunning. However, my favourite is this one. It is so clean, so imaginative and so beautifully executed. I love the fancy side pockets. In fact, I have a Rundschau pattern for a jacket like this. I must track it down and post it.

#16 Hanna

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Posted 29 June 2009 - 03:58 AM

Or this one:

Posted Image

You could use a darker and more sober cloth (if you must...)!


I have a very nice pale grey and light pink plaid that would work well for that. Yet another one for the list!
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#17 Hanna

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Posted 29 June 2009 - 03:59 AM

I like them all. The inset in the overcoat pocket matching the suit is stunning. However, my favourite is this one. It is so clean, so imaginative and so beautifully executed. I love the fancy side pockets. In fact, I have a Rundschau pattern for a jacket like this. I must track it down and post it.


Please do. I've been looking at how it's cut and for the life of me can't figure it out. Well, that's not true, I have an idea, but no where near a clear enough one!

#18 Schneidergott

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Posted 29 June 2009 - 06:39 AM

I like them all. The inset in the overcoat pocket matching the suit is stunning. However, my favourite is this one. It is so clean, so imaginative and so beautifully executed. I love the fancy side pockets. In fact, I have a Rundschau pattern for a jacket like this. I must track it down and post it.


Then you gonna love these:

Posted Image

Posted Image

Just pure classics with a twist, if you like! ;)
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"Nur der ist Meister seiner Kunst, der immer sucht, das Gute zu verbessern und niemals glaubt, das Beste schon zu haben."
"Only he is a master of his art who always seeks to improve the good and never believes to have the best already"

 





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