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#1 Gen

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Posted 28 January 2010 - 10:47 AM

Hello, I am a professor at Parsons School of Design. A group of professors were talking about tailoring and a few questions come up that no one had an answer for. I was hoping that I could find the answer here at cutter and tailor.


1. is there a term in English for the other side of the front in a button front shirt, the one that holds the buttons (the opposite side is the placket) ? The French use a term "gorge" for "placket".

2.is for men's tie construction, they refer to a "cravatier
stitch" which is the invsible hand stitches that hold the two sides of the tie together lengthwise.

Thank you,
Genevieve

#2 A TAILOR

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Posted 29 January 2010 - 07:05 AM

alexander would be best consulted on shirt questions.

but to the best of my knowledge the pleated side of the front edge is the "placket". thats the side the buttonholes are on.
this also goes for the opening at the bottom of the sleeve.
correct me if i am wrong alex.
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#3 Sator

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Posted 29 January 2010 - 08:47 AM

As for the tie question, I hope David Hober drops in soon. If he doesn't know, nobody will.

#4 David Hober

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Posted 10 February 2010 - 04:00 PM

As for the tie question, I hope David Hober drops in soon. If he doesn't know, nobody will.





Genevieve,


I am not sure that I understand your tie question.

Do you mean that the thread that closes the tie in the back is called the "cravatier stitch in French and you are wondering what it is called in English? If so I have heard a number of terms but none that are formally correct.

We are informal as we are a bespoke workshop not a factory and just call it "a closing stitch".

For an American industrial term call Brooks Brothers tie factory which is not too far from you. They will tell you the current American factory term.





David Hober
www.samhober.com

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#5 David Hober

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Posted 16 February 2010 - 09:52 PM

Actually, you may as well use the term "Slip stitch" as the thread that closes the back ends up with a slip stitch.
David Hober
www.samhober.com

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#6 Che Pasticcio

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Posted 28 November 2010 - 04:09 AM

Isn't it called the front band while the buttonhole side is called the front placket?

#7 jcsprowls

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Posted 28 November 2010 - 08:26 AM

The underside is called the stand or extension; and, the topside is called the placket.
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