What is a Sports Jacket?
Posted 05 May 2009 - 11:09 PM
Notice that he talks about sport jackets AND lounge coats. By the latter, he clearly indicates that he specifically means an ODD lounge coat. That is to say: an odd lounge coat and a sports jacket are two different garments.
This is by no means unique to Devereaux. The same usage can be found elsewhere amongst other authors. Here Wife and Bridgland in 1949 do the same thing in talking about sports jackets and lounge styled jackets as separate types of garments:
Here H.J. Weatherall of Bailey & Weatherall, Savile Row writes:
The sort of garment he describes as having pivot sleeves, darted backs, Raglan shoulders and tab-collars hardly qualifies as an odd lounge jacket. It is abundantly clear that by "sports jacket" he means garments such as Norfolk jackets and the like. Obviously, garments such as riding/hacking jackets, and safari jackets were intended as sports wear and so qualify as "sports jackets".
The widespread use of the expression "sports jacket/coat" to denote an odd lounge jacket appears to be an Americanism. In the following text, Bert Bacharach in Right Dress - Success Through Better Grooming, New York 1955 describes a "sports coat" as being differentiated only by having patch pockets, ticket pocket but suggests that it is otherwise identical in cut to a lounge jacket ('suit jacket' in American English):
Notice too the Americanism of talking about reefer jackets as "blazers", wheras Whife in the 1950-60s clearly calls double breasted odd jackets as being "reefers" and calls brightly coloured or striped single breasted jackets "blazers".
With that I would conclude that in British English an odd lounge jacket and a sports coat are different garments. The use of the term "sports coat/jacket" to denote an odd lounge coat is an Americanism.
Posted 06 May 2009 - 12:22 AM
I particularly agree with this and would love if we could return to a simpler definition.
intended as sports wear and so qualify as "sports jackets"
However, the wholesale sector uses the term 'sportscoat' or 'sports jacket' in the same sense as 'blazer' or 'odd coat'. There is a minor distinction within the rag trade, though. Sportswear, traditionally, has not broken beyond the better pricepoint, blazers sometimes can. Construction techniques for sportswear is typically fused with the higher-end items having a chestpiece.
Dir, Product Development
Posted 06 May 2009 - 07:13 AM
Posted 06 May 2009 - 11:41 AM
The American influence is very pervasive due to media and the internet, so a lot of Americanisms including calling the expression "blazer" to denote a reefer has caught on. The result is that the British variants are in danger of slowly disappearing. An increasing numbers of Brits call dinner jackets a "tux"
Posted 06 May 2009 - 12:12 PM
Posted 01 July 2009 - 01:45 PM
Things that make a coat more a sports coat include all of those things discussed here (and more): belted backs, flapped chest pockets, button-four closures, or even wholesale departures from lounge coat constructions such as body coat styled backs and Norfolk jackets. Hacking pockets and ticket pockets are also traditionally regarded to be purely sporting touches.
Still, you can have your Norfolk jacket made up as a suit with matching plus fours if you want, so you may still lose sleep worrying that your sports jacket will like an "orphaned Norfolk suit jacket". If so, see a psychiatrist.
Posted 01 July 2009 - 07:21 PM
I know this is something that you abhor Sator but words sometimes change their meaning over time so what was correct in the 20's may no longer be the accepted correct use of the word by the 60's.
Posted 01 July 2009 - 07:35 PM
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